Some contrived scrambling to an amazing chimney pitch with simple quality climbing to the top. Slight amounts of bushbashing. DO NOT DO WHEN WET, the chimney is dark and mossy and is probably unclimbable within a few days of serious rain, Otherwise good when dry.
40m (6) starts at the lowest most northern part of the cliff. Easy scramble up white chossy rock to the left. Head towards the detached pinnacle. Belay at a small ledge with a large cave to the right.
25m (10) Pull over the easy mantle off the ledge and follow wandering line of least resistance south towards the visible peak detached from the main wall. past tree and bushes. Belay on top of pillar with shattered large blocks.
20m (5) Go left along the natural bridge between pillar and wall up to corner on the right at base of crack.
20m (14) Up wide slightly overhanging crack top out on left and push back to main wall. Belay in a grassy 3m gap between the orange main wall and the darker detached pillar.
20m walk left through the bush following the main wall till tree with old sling and carabiner. Belay off the tree.
25m (14) Go left till the ledge drops away, up left over somewhat tricky moves with good gear. Continue up good rock trending slightly right towards obvious dark chimney. Smash through grass and bush for last 5m. Belay in the chimney.
30m (12) smash up an awesome chimney, with good gear in the back. Pull over the top and head directly back following the wall through grass. belay off large loose block on ledge. careful to not drop any rocks onto belayer stuck in chimney
20m (10) couple of hard moves straight left off the belay over small wall onto grassy ledge. Walk back to the next wall and then 5m left to the obvious crack system.
25m (14) straight up following crack. Past old piton towards bush on ledge below next crack.
30m (17) continue up the obvious crack feature, gets steep towards the top. Be careful what you stand on as there are a couple of loose blocks. pull over the slight overhang and then straight up trending right to belay on the small ledge right before the wall gets vertical.
60m (12) A rope stretcher, may be better done in two pitches if there is time. Head horizontally right for 30m with good gear until darker and more bushy rock. Then smash up through an easy but unprotected bush to top out.
Magnificent. Start at the lowest point of the face, under prominent pinnacle.
Easy slabs lead up 60m to a prominent pinnacle.
24m Climb onto the "bridge" between the pinnacle and the face via a short wall R.H. corner south of the pinnacle - vicious fight with scrub at top.
N.B. This pitch may be avoided by a long traverse along a scrubby ledge, higher up from the left.
36m Most novel! From top of pinnacle, carefully bridge the 2m gap to face short wall, then a long delicate, exposed traverse to the right to a large broken boulder.
30m Upwards.
30m Right, then up through scrub.
30m General scrub-bash, or else rock to the left.
30m Magnificent rock wall to right of L.H. corner system. (See direct finish)
9m Traverse right and up delicately, to stance.
30m Traverse right, back up left to airy belay beneath overhang.
30m Cunningly avoid overhang by rightward traverse above corner. Easier to top.
[The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it].
One of the longest climbs in the 'Bungles. A good deal harder if the final chimney can't be squeezed!
Start: Above the scunge (in the centre) of the north face, up scrubby gully, to chimney leading right.
12m Up to large Moreton Bay figs.
33m Delicate, then up through scrub.
15m Right towards rib, can stop in corner.
24m To large platform. Belay on rib.
9m Up left to peg.
24m Continue up to tree.
18m Long stretch to the gully and up (?).
24m Up, some rotten rock.
27m One comes to a bush!!
24m To the conspicuous chimney.
24m To a good chockstone.
15m Up chimney (13) or outside it (15), more exposed over rotten rock to stance.
Goes up the north west buttress for about 150m to the terrace, then takes a line between the upper part of Scunge Gully and Vertigo.
Start: The first obvious entry to the cliff on the way down from the pinnacle to the start of Scunge Gully i.e. roughly 30 metres right of Scunge Gully.
21m Steeply leftwards up ramp below a red wall crowned by overhangs.
27m To top of ramp, then step left from the corner to outflank overhangs. 2 old pitons at belay.
33m Look out for the fixed bearing race! Up right hand wall of corner. Step right at about 9m to avoid overhangs. Up into groove which trends rightwards. Chockstone.
30m Good chockstone at the head of the groove, up right and over bulges. Then right to a detached block.
27m Left to shallow groove, thence easy ground to tree.
21m Avoid vegetated gully by steep slabs behind tree.
Cross the terrace.
34m The fault line which starts midway between Vertigo and the upper half of Scunge Gully is followed steeply up right. Some loose rock before stepping left and up on good rock. To avoid the horror rock on this pitch, it is possible to traverse off right into Vertigo at about half height.
Shares start of If the Spirit Moveth (same first two pitches), continues to Doctor Dark's Chimney belay ledge, then goes L of Doctor Dark's Chimney and up wall.
Follow track to W Face. Continue along track behind detached
pinnacle and scramble up first narrow gully to narrow ledge.
35 m Up small ramp, then up over small
overhang. Meander up to tree belay. Scramble to
ledge and follow track L along cliff line. Track dips
to a narrow belay stance about 5 m past bottom of dip (near finish of Doctor Dark's Chimney pitch two. Vertigo is round comer to L.)
40 m Steep slab (adequate pro),
tending slightly R, to small overhang. Poor rock.
Overhang (crux), then easier climbing for about 20 m to small, vertical crack.
15 m Scramble to top, with belay tree for Doctor Dark's Chimney visible on R, at end of chimney.
FA:Stuart Pengelly, Gary Caganott & Gary Caganoff, 1992
