Routes as trad in Werribee Gorge

The flake around to the Left of 'Anal Crank'.

Start 2m Right of 'It'.

The corner.

The corner 1m R of Brutus. Up short corner crack to ledge. Move up arete/slab (no protection) and join Brutus at layback crack.

Usually top-roped after Brutus.

As usual CB commandeered the blunt end for this "extreme" piece of climbing.

Start 9m R of 'Brutus'.

The L corner.

Up the crack 2m Right of 'Execution' to broken blocks at the top.

Start at small cave 1m Right of 'Persecution'.

Up the arete between 'Persecution' and 'SPQR'.

Inexplicably given 3 stars in previous guides.

Start 1m R of Consul's arete.

Up the R sloping crack then R up larger crack.

Steep one meter right of the final head wall and climb the steep cracks.

Pull out of cave(4m R of SPQR) and up right side of large scoop. Step R and up to to big pockets. Straight up widening cracks in the headwall.

Start 10m Right of 'SPQR'.

The rotten line.

Start 2m Right of 'Cuniculum'.

Up the black streak past 2 x RBs then Left along the easier crack.

Good climbing. The gear is adequate but very fiddly; it regularly sees gear-popping falls.

Start 2m L of 'Conscientious Pontius'.

Shares French Revolution's first bolt.

Up orange wall then R to vertical seam.

2 star hand jamming ... for about 3 moves.

The obvious hand crack to the ledge and then up the flared crack in the orange face above.

A much better quality finish, though you have to pretend the block on the R isn't there.

Start 2m R of 'Conscientious Pontius'.

The finger crack with forks at the top. Take the L fork.

One move wonder, but still ok.

Start 2m R of 'Conscientious Pontius'.

The finger crack with forks at the top. Finish R up the ramp and corner.

An average sandbag squeeze job.

The bolted line between 'Hadrian' and 'Big Ears'. Rebolted May 2023 by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

One of the best easy routes here.

Upgraded from 15 when a block came off. There's another still there at about 6m which might go someday so don't put your gear behind it.

Up the broken corner 3m R of 'Hadrian'.

Contrived, but the moves up high are quite ok.

Start 3m R of 'Snatch and Grab'.

The flakey line to the arete. Climb L side of the arete. Resist the urge to stem L or R. Up to double ring lower off. Rebolted May 2023 - Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Start 4m R of 'Snatch and Grab'.

Loose scary corner/crack.

Start as for 'Sweet Chariot'.

A few worthwhile moves up the arete between 'Death Gate' and 'Sweet Chariot' to a double U bolt lower off.

Rebolted June 2023 - Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Far superior to SPQR. Good jamming and interesting moves all the way up the nice corner.

The corner crack 1m R of 'Death Gate'.

Start at the corner 4m R of 'Sweet Chariot'.

Up the corner and little arete feature to the rooflet then R and up.

Rebolted May 2023

Climb 'Vulcan' to the flake. You can clip the third bolt of Tina the Ballerina from Pasadena and the second bolt of Barbra Streisand (or go full trad).Go R and around arete, then follow the crack in the upper L wall.

The corner crack just Right of 'Barbara Streisand'. Finish up the ramp to DRB

Loweroff added by Safer Cliffs Victoria 14 July 23.

Be aware a large Cunningham's skink may be in residence hiding in the flake (waist level) above the bottom shelf.

Start as for 'Hannibal' the short crack on Left to ledge, Left and up.

Start 6m Right of 'Barbara Streisand'.

Up flakes to ramp then Right into the orange corner.

Start as for 'Hannibal' then Right to steep Right leading corner/crack.

Previously given 2 stars ... what the?! For poor rock-starved Melbourne-ites, it'll eventually be worth doing ... but not even they could seriously give this route any stars.

Start 5m R of 'Hannibal'.

The hand-crack through the bulge, then the wider crack above the ledge, finishing up crack on L.

Bring a couple of big cams.

Start 3m Right of 'Androcles'.

Up flakes to corner crack then overhang. On through blocks and ledges.

Start 2.5m Right of Cicero.

Up broken flakes to overhang then crack over blocks. Right beneath summit block to crack.

Start 3m Left of 'Golgotha'.

Up arete to the ledge below Octavia's crux, then Right and up grooves to ledge. Up cracks then Left to finish up Octavia's final crack.

This offwidth corner crack has a fan club of thrutchaholics.

Start up the ramp on L then into and up the imposing corner-crack.

Start as for 'Golgotha'.

Go halfway up the corner-crack then Right at the rooflet, follow the seam across to finish up Redex's finger crack.

Start from the ledge 3m L of 'Veni Vedi Vici'.

Go up and L past a small hole then to a cave on the arete. R to crack.

Start from the ledge 3m L of 'Veni Vedi Vici'.

Go up and L past a small hole then straight up the thin vertical seam above the crack.

Starts on the same ledge as 'Veni Vedi Vici'.

Through the bulge then R past bolts and ledges.

The dog leg crack 5m R of the arete. A couple of big cams are recommended.

Start 6m R of 'Veni Vedi Vici'.

Up the offwidth slot at R side of the cave to crack and hole, then on to the ledge.

Ring anchors at the top.

Start 6m R of 'Veni Vedi Vici'.

Up the slot at R side of the cave, then take the thin diagonal crack up and R.

Starts out of the L side of the 'Spartacus' cave. Monkey out of cave, then follow the vertical seam in the face to the top of Cocchium Diagonal's crack.

Ring bolt above lip, then small gear to join Cochhium.

Start at cave 4m R of 'Cocchium'.

Out the R side of the cave, through overhang to the crack then up.

Contrived nonsense... but fun if you're into that kind of thing. Climbs the block between S and CC avoiding either at all times with just sufficient gear.

Start 2m R of 'Spartacus'.

Up to crack, through rooflet to the broken ledge then up.

Starts at the corner R of 'Fuel the Fire'.

Up the corner to a smooth scoop then L and up to overhang.

Starts at the buttress with the cave at the bottom down and R of 'Crispin's Crispian'.

Follow the diagonal flake-crack through bulge to a ledge. Take the L crack to ledge.

The major crack on the left side of the semi-detached pillar (if facing the rock). Up crack to join L-facing corner, easily through blocky ledges at 3/4 height, then rejoin and finish up corner crack.

The arête up R of 'Centurion'. Starts around the other side of the pillar from Centurion, 1m left of the big chimney. Poorly protected.

The corner crack to the right of the major chimney.

The crack R of 'Roman Holiday'.

Start as for 'Purist Oasis' then L and up.

The crack up the L-facing corner, above the small, ground-level cave.