Routes as trad in Scarborough Cliffs

A few funky sections leading to an easy crack. Crack system right of Skysaw. Fix rope for 30m rap from anchors 5m Left of Whale of a Time rap facing out, and up the hill a bit 2 fixed hangers). Rap down and right (facing cliff) to ledge below dirty slab. Up cracks and breaks, where ledges and blocks head out left place gear in average breaks and pull boldly direct over bulge to small horizontal, past bolt (to stop you placing gear in the loose blocks on left), past another small break, then up cracks. Gear, wires, lots of small cams, plus std rack. Double ropes is better for some of the breaks, but not necessary.

Up the dirty crack in the corner under the rap in. Go straight up navigating the loose holds and a few bushes.

As good as they get on the escapement, layback & jam your way up the obvious corner crack, lower off on the anchors of "Ration The Passion" or continue up. bring doubles in medium cams if you really wanna lace her up.

Start up the First 2 bolts of Big Fat Fin Slappers 2nd pitch before heading straight up the thin crack. Fantastic rock and good gear #1.25 and smaller.

The good-quality orange face and verdant corner above the pre-traverse belay of Big Fat Fin Slappers. Requires camalots from #0.3 to 1, (double #0.75 is helpful) and a couple of medium nuts.

Three nice pitches of bridging and laybacking up big crack system, no jamming required. Rap down Big Fat Fin Slappers 40m or so to big ledge and walk a few steps right to thin corner. Take two #4 cams (large grey camalot) for the laybacks on pitch 2 and 3, or even a 5 (we took 2 of each).

1. 25m (17) Thin corner then bridge around drummy block to ledge and around roof. At top of 2nd corner, step left onto wall to good red camalot break and wires to protect against nasty pendulum on exit. Wires to hand size gear on this pitch. Double ring belay.

2. 15m (15) Through roof and up ramp and wide layback crack. Double ring belay.

3. 20m (17) Past fixed tube chock and up short wide layback crack, Up easy ground on left. At about 15m step right and up scrub to tree (going direct up left is harder).

Quality sustained climbing at the grade. A good mix of adventure and fun sport climbing. Would be 3 stars if the first pitch was a little less sandy, the second, however, is one to remember! Take a single rack of cams (#0.5 - #3 BD. A #4 is nice but not necessary), roughly 12 draws and a couple slings for the belays (the bolts are a little small).

Pitch 1 - 20m - 21 (Fully bolted): Start off the small boulder up sandy wall and over small rootlet, 15m more leads to a belay in sandy cave (belay bolts on the outside face).

Pitch 2 - 30m - 21 (Mixed Trad): Step right from the belay, traversing the sandy underclings for 4m to the base of excellent hand crack. Blast up this picking up the bolts again once it widens beyond a #4 size and continuing up the continually good climbing all the way to the top.

The jam crack can be easily aided. Overall this route is very well protected. Rap back down to the ground to climb out something else at penthouse (Old Man of Oi is recommended for the full adventure experience)