Routes in Mount Keira for selected grade

The corner about 5 meters past Fizzgig. Up the corner to the top.

Start in the crack left of Fountain of Youth. Up the line.

[New - April 2012] Gaston start, to layback, up horizontal flakes , pull out fingernails to reach the major ledge. Up sheeding sandstone bulge, find that high pull-up bar - but careful on that last 'exposed' move to the Loweroffs platform ! A common solo problem cleaned up with some useful bolts.

Start on slabby wall as for Brigetta6. Up to cam#1 pocket on left, step right and straight up wall (past fixed bracket) to horizontal break. Climb past horizontal using arete on left (don't grovel up the crack!). Up to LO's.

[Dec 2012 - new steel RB's and lower off] Very Popular . An old classic. Tough linear start , or approach from the left traversing across the ledge. Up recessed edge, pull up right at bulge, then straight up wall to top overhang and over the top.

Starts as for Jacky, not very popular. Up the short arete to crack. Using side of crack climb climb up slightly right to corner in roof. Climb past old peg up to roof. Contort around roof and grovel up!

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth Another one of those roof climbs that looks like it could fall on you! Start in the corner at the righthand side under the large roof (Right of Putain De Pudding).Up the Short corner past bolt to roof, lean out on jugs up over to clip bolt on left. Swing leftward over lip and on up left to follow pedestal (bolt) to top.

Natural protection. Hand traverse the jamb crack (cams) out right (and dont step on the bloody tree!) When 2 meters past the arete clip the bolt and reach for the high jug then up the wall to the ledge. Clip bolt and finish direct over bulge onto desperate slab.

Use Psicotico rings or carrots just to the left. Work you way up diagonal crimp rail. Reach for slopers at horizontal break then jugs to the top.

Top rope from double rings: Start from the track in the corner (left of the arrow in the tree) for a harder start or walk up to the break for an easier accent.

NPWS are reviewing this route - May 2013

[July 2012 - added ring bolt lower-offs] . The first of the main South Face climbs. On the red faced wall at the beginning of the South Face access track.

Top-rope Problem. The problem at the left hand side of the wall. Climb the curved crack. Pretty thin pro.

Toproped Another mongrel climb... Stay off the #1 Crack. Start 1m right of #1 Crack. A long reach up then up the centre.

The crack. Natural pro. Start at the undercut hand crack. Climb till you hit the ledge, then take your pick of the two cracks, just climb to the top.

[2012 Sept - Lower Offs added]

Start 1m right of the chimney. Up the flake to overhang and follow the lip of the overhang to ledge. Up final wall to top.

[2012 Sept - now all RBs + extended to top of 'Screw']

Start 2m right of the chimney. Haul over the overhang to start.. Up the middle of the wall to follow the worn ridge to ledge (Note: old chain on ledge). Then up arete to new LO's.

You can climb down Archer's Arc to set top-rope for these climbs.

Start on the slab as for Down and Going. Pull onto slab and up right to 1st ringbolt, then straight up wall to the 2nd ringbolt and exit onto ledge. Right and up next wall past ringbolt to double ring belay. Climb the short flake and wall past 3 ringbolts to bolt belay.

[Sept 2012 - ring bolt lower offs & 3 new bolts to limit the 'run outs'] Start as for Mind Games. High step onto slab ledge and traverse right towards the arete passing 2nd & 3rd ringbolts. Up the right arete to the ledge. Belay station at base of wall. Climb vertical wall to 2nd ledge ring belay.

Bolts all the way make up for the orange slippery/sus rock.

1. One Strenuous pull-up move off the ground then climb the middle of the wall between the arete and El Packo to ledge beneath the short wall. 4 RB and 1 carrot bolt (bring a plate)

2. Up the short wall on the left as for Travail 2nd pitch. 4 RB to DBB

Not very good. Start at the crack a meter right of Chottomati Direct. Climb the chimney to the roof, over this then up the corner to ledge. Up the final corner.

Start in the lefthand corner 3m left of Gallows Tree. Up the flake and to the ledge. Layback (crux) around the roof then up to ledge above. Your choice of the cracks above.

Start matched on the big jug on the right then move up left to the ledge, work across to the left then top out. !!Don't use the rock slab that protrudes out just above the start holds, it is loose and could easily fall.!!

Slab around to the right of Barb. Climb left side of slab following vague line of holds. Downclimb route.

Climb Right side of slab. Downclimb route.

Up left side of very featured wall around to the right of Right Slab. Downclimb route.

Climb straight up the middle of this featured face. Downclimb route.

Start on right side of this face and traverse left along lip all the way to the top. Downclimb this or any other route.

Traverse face with feet about the head-height of someone standing on ground.