Ascents in Wetterstein und Mieminger Kette

Went in a team of 3. First pitch starts with a short but sketchy slab part. Pitch two and three are steeper and need some endurance. After that all pitches were wet and most of the harder parts were unclimbable wet (A0 fun).

Fantastic route with a single, short crux and otherwise brilliant, easy climbing. The approach, however, was horrendously painful due to the snow. None of us had been here before, so we couldn't make out where the path would be and somehow made our way up to the wall through the snow. The first pitch is bolted in a way that allows to avoid the wet crack at the start and is quite easy, so we linked it with the second pitch, which is already the crux (which is also how it is entered here). After a marvellous traverse along a big flake, the line of bolts indicates to go up straight, but I couldn't find a way to climb this for the grade. Maybe I was just too exhausted from the approach already, but after grabbing the draw and pulling myself up, I realized there's a juggy yet chossy flake two meters to the right, which allows you to gain the jugs. After this section, keep left for the belay on the big flake. The next pitch is a glorious traverse on a massive flake, followed by steep, juggy dihedral and wall climbing. Another longish pitch through left-leaning dihedrals gets you directly in the line of the big roof, which is reached via another nice, slabby pitch (or two, depending on the topo). Manoeuvering the weakness in the roof is astonishingly easy (hip flexibility is helpful, nevertheless). It's hard to communicate with your partner from the next belay, so it's best to clarify signals before the runout. The last pitch is a nice chimney/dihedral (my partner got fooled and went to the right into terribly chossy terrain after the chock stone, though, so I had to go there and back to clean the gear). The descent is adventurous to say the least. If there's snow, prepare for some more belaying.

Abfahrt in Muc 5:15, Parkplatz 7.00, Wangalm 800, Einstieg um 1030.

Ausstieg und Querung auf Westgrat nicht gefunden und nach L9 über Route mit etwas aufwand abgeseilt.

Leider ist viel Schotter auf der Route, man muss echt gut aufpassen, keinen Steinschlag auszulösen. Der Abstieg ist recht steil und kann durch die teils feine Kiesauflage ziemlich nervenaufreibend werden.

Zustieg nicht so klar, erst einige weniger Meter dem angeschriebenen Weg zum Klettersteig folgen, dann einem etwas versteckten Weg rechts folgen. Der Weg wird immer schwächer bis man sich selber orientieren muss. An der Wand angekommen kann man die ersten Bolts erkennen, leicht rechts über dem Geröllfeld.

Started off relatively well with the first two pitches, despite the bad conditions. The third pitch was completely wet, though, so Jeni switched to aid mode. This, however, took a pretty long time. I managed to second it cleanly and fast, but wouldn't have dared this on lead. We thought the wet pitches were over now, because after the wet chimney start of pitch 4, it looked dry, so we pushed on. I managed to cleanly lead that pitch, the end of which is a brutally hard, polished crack which reminded me of "Steckelesriss" in Burglesau. Jeni started up the next crux pitch, but gave up after half an hour or so, which was the next bad sign. I managed to finish that pitch, but looking at the clock, I was dead sure that we wouldn't make it to the end of pitch 7 in time. I definitely didn't want to get benighted, so we decided to bail. Luckily, there are many glue-ins, so you can back-track relatively safely. Our rope got stuck once, shortly before we reached the ground, but we managed to pull it down after a while.

Crazy what's possible with perfect conditions and the right mindset:) and the person before me who tickmarked almost every hold;) only tried it because of the name but turned out to be a real diamond!

Stood a few times already under this bouldery classic but always avoided to give it a try because of too much respect, fear of failing, ... happy that I managed to encourage myself today and with the support of Vera, it went down first try, soo unexpected:)

Another big classic ticked off the most do list:) winterwonderland and warm sun around 0 degrees brought the friction to another level! Expected it to be much harder which let me stay calm;) thx Clemens for putting up the draws!

Surprisingly the corner was the most challenging and beautiful part, thx to the person for the perfect tickmark-work to the top;) at least 7b+...

Onsight. Bloß dummerweise den falschen umlenker geklippt... danach an henkeln zum richtigen aba da wars dann scho zu spät! Sau geile abwechslungsreiche und tricky kletterei 1.5h reise

What an endless battle on these slopy but still sharp features;)

Traumhaft schee! Hat mi voll an Céüse erinnert wegen der kletterei und dem pergekten löcherkalk;)

What a kingline! Next to many more;) never thought that the hard part would be directly at the beginning... still got super pumped higher up;)

Beautiful walk through well shaped sharp rock leading into a bouldery finish above this little roof:)

At first, you should properly read the topo to find the right route;)

Had to do the pretty hard start on the wall right of the first 2 bolts due to water running through the runnel on the left. Nice though! Fun climbing afterwards with distinct crux. Got the method wrong so it felt desperate and more like solid 7b. Good and proud route!

Thanks Michi for prooving me that they made a mistake in the gb... beautiful face climbingon super sharp rock:) in the sun...

Much better than it looks with awesome limestone features and some tricky sequences especially right before the top!

Tiny crimps at the start on perfect bubble rock! Climbing in the shade behind the tree wasn't the best idea... at least for clipping the chains, I've got some sun:)

Zufällig jede stelle perfekt dawuschn:) steiler kraftiger klassiker!

Perfect cool down and so in love with this rock!

Pretty pumpy warmup in the hot autumn sun;)

Quite bouldery but super cool intersting moves and rock structures:)

Led all pitches, all OS, all bolted apart from exit pitch

Pumpiger Riss, heikle Platt- elegant und gut !

Geniale Piaz-Schuppe, der Rest unaufregende sportkletterei

Teamonsight