Showing all 67 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Wed 4th Oct 2023 - Secret Crag | ||||||
8c+ | ★★★ Tanz der Zeit | ★★ Very Good | ||||
FA. Thsnks for showing me this amazing line Heiko 🙏
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Geisterschmiedwand | ||||||
9a+ | ★★ Qui | 30m | ||||
So cool to finally send this one, such a legendary route (FA in 1996 by Stefan Fürst)
Last year one hold in the crux would just never dry up but this season it was finally all dry and I was able to do it in my 2nd try (this year).
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Mon 3rd Oct 2022 - Nassereith | ||||||
Götterwandl | ||||||
9a+ ~9b | Clash of the Titans | |||||
Video: https://youtu.be/ukm8wVEAs5o?si=gF_TZ82JSM3Cd6rD
It’s been more than five years since I first tried the route “Clash of the Titans” back home in Tirol which was first climbed by Alex Megos in 2017. Alex graded it 9a+ back then but to me it always felt substantially harder than that. I’ve done quite a few 9a+ and also 9bs but none of them took as much effort as this route. However, after I finally sent rather quickly last year I wasn’t sure anymore if it really deserves an upgrade making me hesitant to publish the ascent and have a clear opinion on the grade. After all, the route doesn’t fit my preferred style, which is crimping, but there are quite a few open handholds on this one, which gave me a hard time. Earlier this year, the opportunity came up to go back together with Stefano Ghisolfi who checked out the route as well and gave his opinion. Check out the video on my YT channel to find out more.
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Wed 9th Mar 2022 - Walgau | ||||||
Lorüns Paris Texas | ||||||
9a | ★★★ Sprengstoff | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
4th ascent, 2nd try. Such an amazing route and a great day with Adam and Babsy 💪🏻
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Sun 22nd Nov 2020 - Achleiten | ||||||
Bauernwandl obere Wand | ||||||
9a 9a+ | ★★ Neuron | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2nd Ascent after Roland Hemetzberger. shares the crux of 'The Void' but climbs a harder start into it. Since you have such an amazing knee bar in the middle it doesn't make it much harder though, in my opinion.
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9a | ★★ The Void | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really struggled with the crux move at the top at first but with good skin it went down first try today. Really hard to grade since it's mostly about this one single move, could be 9a could be easier for someone who loves pockets I don't know. 2nd Ascent after Roli I think..
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Sun 8th Nov 2020 - Achleiten | ||||||
Bauernwandl obere Wand | ||||||
8c+ | ★★★ Tunnelblick | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd Go, might be on the soft side. What a line though!!
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Sat 7th Nov 2020 - Achleiten | ||||||
Panoramawandl | ||||||
8c+ | ★★★ Mantra | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I think this was the first ascent after a big hold broke, it‘s an amazing power endurance route and now even more so. Think it is quite a bit harder now, maybe 8c/8c+ before and harder 8c+ now. Loved this climb!!
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Fri 6th Nov 2020 - Achleiten | ||||||
Rosengarten | ||||||
8a+ | ★★ Leninakan | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 5th Nov 2020 - Achleiten | ||||||
Rosengarten | ||||||
8b | ★★★ Ehrentotzen | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mon 2nd Nov 2020 - Wilder Kaiser | ||||||
Schleierwasserfall Hauptsektor | ||||||
8b 8c+ | ★★ Orca | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Originally the route was graded 8c+ by first ascentionist Alex Huber but the right hand hold he used on the crux move is basically gone and Adam Ondra found a new beta using a left hand tiny crimp to do the second ascent. I found a way better solution using a good side pull just left of Adam‘s crimp which lets me go directly to the finishing jug. Since this route is pretty much easy except this only move, the whole thing is much easier with my beta now, probably around 8b 😅
It climbs very nicely this way though so I definitely recommend it to people (>170cm) 😉
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Fri 9th Oct 2020 - Wilder Kaiser | ||||||
Schleierwasserfall Hauptsektor | ||||||
9a | ★★ Fugu | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
3rd ascent of this cool line in the upper sector. Took me 4 tries to send it. Thanks for the good times Guido!
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Tue 9th Jun 2020 - Nösslach | ||||||
Sonnenblume | ||||||
8b | ★★★ June Afternoon | ★★★ Classic | ||||
2nd Ascent. In memory of my friend Hansjörg Auer
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Thu 21st May 2020 - Zillergrund | ||||||
Schwarze Wand Pussle Bussle | ||||||
8c+ | ★★★ Road to the Source | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Alfons grabbed the 2nd ascent and I shortly followed with the 3rd. Awesome line!
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Sun 17th May 2020 - Wilder Kaiser | ||||||
Schleierwasserfall Hauptsektor | ||||||
8c+ | ★★★ Gambit | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Such a good one! 3rd Go.
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Fri 1st May 2020 - Monkey Island | ||||||
9a | ★★★ Walk the Line | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
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Tue 28th Apr 2020 - Wilder Kaiser | ||||||
Schleierwasserfall Graue Wand | ||||||
8c | ★★★ Mercy Street | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
'Retro Flash' which means I briefly tried it a few years ago and climbed it 1st go now (not remembering anything). Thanks for the beta Misha! Fun route!!
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Tue 28th Apr 2020 - Wilder Kaiser | ||||||
Schleierwasserfall Hauptsektor | ||||||
9a | ★★★ Weiße Rose | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
3rd Ascent. Opened by Alex Huber in 1994 (when I was 3 years old). Psyched to climb such a fantastic and legendary route!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KskvEEi-m9s&t=17s
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Sat 10th Nov 2018 - Scheabichl | ||||||
8c+ | ★★★ Synergieeffekt - with Michael Piccolruaz | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
A fantastic line with perfect compression climbing and amazing holds.
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Sat 20th Oct 2018 - Nassereith | ||||||
Götterwandl | ||||||
8c+ | ★ Juturna | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 14th Oct 2017 - Niederthai | ||||||
Minas Tirith | ||||||
8c | ★★★ Passport 2 Honesty | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fri 13th Oct 2017 - Monkey Island | ||||||
8b+ | ★★ Linke Generation | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 10th Oct 2017 - Nassereith | ||||||
Götterwandl | ||||||
8c+ | ★ Juturna | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Oct 2016 - Berglsteiner See | ||||||
Block | ||||||
9a | Kraftplatzl | |||||
2.Ascent
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Oct 2016 - Elefantenwand | ||||||
8c+ | ★★★ Ganesha - with Jakob Schubert | |||||
8c+ 9a | Kein Licht, kein Schatten - with Jakob Schubert | 15m | ||||
Nov 2015 - Ginzling | ||||||
Bergstation Coque au vin | ||||||
9a+ | Companion of Change | 25m | ||||
Oct 2015 - Saustein | ||||||
9a 8c+ to 9a | Grantiger Bauer | |||||
Mon 13th Jun 2011 - Nassereith | ||||||
Götterwandl | ||||||
8c | ★ Athene | 20m | ★ Good | |||
2nd Ascent
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8c+ | ★★ Fonax | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd Go this year, 3rd in total...
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Thu 26th May 2011 - Zillergrund | ||||||
Schwarze Wand Pussle Bussle | ||||||
8c+ | ★★★ The Source | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
3rd Go this year... what a route!!!! 3rd Ascent
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Thu 21st Apr 2011 - Piburger See | ||||||
8c | ★★★ Tao | ★★★ Classic | ||||
8b | ★★★ Der Seewächter | ★★★ Classic | ||||
should have onsighted it, but the draws were not in and in the end i was too scared (idiot )
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Tue 22nd Mar 2011 - Ewige Jagdgründe | ||||||
Wächter | ||||||
8c | ★★ Love 2.0 | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd Go this year... wet starting hold and shit conditions...numb fingers=painful!
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Sat 5th Feb 2011 - Total Brutal | ||||||
8b+ | ★★ Total Brutal | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 6th Nov 2010 - Ginzling | ||||||
Bergstation Coque au vin | ||||||
8b+ | ★★★ Coque au vin | 33m | ★★★ Classic | |||
3rd Go
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Sun 10th Oct 2010 - Zillergrund | ||||||
Schwarze Wand Pussle Bussle | ||||||
8b+ | ★★★ Walk the Plank | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
nice route but bad conditions...4th Go
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Sat 2nd Oct 2010 - Niederthai | ||||||
Steiler Block | ||||||
8c+ | ★★★ One night stand | 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
my first FA! not sure about the grade, but definitely 8c+... chipped but fun to climb!
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Sat 2nd Oct 2010 - Niederthai | ||||||
Glückshormon | ||||||
8c | ★★★ Waldläufer | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 27th Jun 2010 - Wilder Kaiser | ||||||
Schleierwasserfall Hauptsektor | ||||||
8c+ | ★★★ Das Erbe der Väter | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing line! 2nd Go this year, 3rd in total...
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8b+ | ★★★ Happy Biceps to you (Happy Bizeps to you) | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The BEST!
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Sun 30th May 2010 - Nassereith | ||||||
Götterwandl | ||||||
8b+ | ★★ Zeus | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
9a | ★★ Hades | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
1 day in this year! what the hell is going on
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Sun 23rd May 2010 - Armelen | ||||||
8b | ★★ A gsunde Watschn (A g´sunde Watschn) | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
fell at the last move in the onsight try...
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Sun 23rd May 2010 - Niederthai | ||||||
Brandy Tarte | ||||||
8c+ | ★★★ Brandy Tarte | 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
8c/+ 13 amazing moves! 3rd Go
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Mon 28th Sep 2009 - Nassereith | ||||||
Götterwandl | ||||||
8b+ | ★★★ Janus | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
8b+/8c. Patxi is crazy, how can u onsight this
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Thu 17th Sep 2009 - Nassereith | ||||||
Götterwandl | ||||||
8a+ | ★★★ Ares | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
like a flash, but i tried route with same end long time ago...
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Sun 14th Jun 2009 - Breitlahner | ||||||
Bachblock | ||||||
8c+ | ★★★ Dolby Surround | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
YES! SA but FA after a hold broke, now 8c+/9a in my opinion, excited for other opinions though! One of the hardest and best in Zillertal! Thx Tom...VIDEO: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=da9nZG-d2AU
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Mon 1st Jun 2009 - Niederthai | ||||||
Glückshormon | ||||||
9a 8c+/9a | ★★★ Mordor | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
yessa! 2 days, 5th go
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Sun 12th Apr 2009 - Nassereith | ||||||
Götterwandl | ||||||
8b+ | ★★★ Blasius | 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
almost flash, fell after the crux like an idiot
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8c | ★★ Morpheus | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
3rd Go
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Wed 30th Jul 2008 - Breitlahner | ||||||
Bachblock | ||||||
8a | ★★ Horny Trout | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
tried route with same beginning before
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Sat 26th Jul 2008 - Ewige Jagdgründe | ||||||
Wig und Wam | ||||||
8a+ | ★★★ Sagaro | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5th day on, too tired for the on sight. 8a+/8b
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Fri 25th Jul 2008 - Ginzling | ||||||
Bergstation 5 Sterne | ||||||
8b | ★★ Caramello | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
could have flashed it with a brain
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8b+ | ★★★ Elements of addiction | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
foot slipped in the good flash try
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Thu 24th Jul 2008 - Ginzling | ||||||
Bergstation 5 Sterne | ||||||
8a+ | ★★ Little Sister | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 20th Jul 2008 - Wilder Kaiser | ||||||
Schleierwasserfall Hauptsektor | ||||||
8a+ 8a+/b | ★★ La pulce d'aqua | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
messed up at the on sight try
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8b | ★★★ Heinzelmännchen | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
1st go, but did try another route with same beginning
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Fri 18th Jul 2008 - Niederthai | ||||||
Steiler Block | ||||||
8c | ★★★ In memo Reini | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Finally
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Sat 5th Jul 2008 - Wilder Kaiser | ||||||
Schleierwasserfall Graue Wand | ||||||
8c 8c to 8c+ | ★★★ Resistance (Least Resistance) | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
super nice
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Thu 3rd Jul 2008 - Niederthai | ||||||
Glückshormon | ||||||
8c | ★★★ Gondor | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
one day! fuckin good shape now
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Sun 30th Mar 2008 - Wilder Kaiser | ||||||
Schleierwasserfall Hauptsektor | ||||||
8a+ 8a+/b | ★★ Cool your foot man | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
8a+/8b
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Sat 3rd Nov 2007 - Bachhexe | ||||||
8a+ | ★★ Bachhexe | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
oh man so cold! nice line
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Fri 1st Sep 2006 - Niederthai | ||||||
Steiler Block | ||||||
8b | ★★ Masada | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
8a+/8b
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Sat 15th Oct 2005 - Monkey Island | ||||||
8a | ★★★ Rain Man | ★★★ Classic | ||||
super route
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Sat 1st Oct 2005 - Wilder Kaiser | ||||||
Schleierwasserfall Hauptsektor | ||||||
8a+ | ★★★ Damengambit | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
super route with an hard end
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Sun 9th Jan 2005 - Martinswand | ||||||
Dschungelbuch Hauptwand | ||||||
8a+ | ★★ Nick Knatterton | 12m | ★ Good | |||
the boulder is very hard 8a/8a+
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Showing all 67 ascents.