Ascents in Austria by Jakob Schubert

FA. Thsnks for showing me this amazing line Heiko 🙏

So cool to finally send this one, such a legendary route (FA in 1996 by Stefan Fürst) Last year one hold in the crux would just never dry up but this season it was finally all dry and I was able to do it in my 2nd try (this year).

8c+/9a Such a good one, very cool boulder problem at the lip!

First Ascent. Thanks a lot to Heiko Wilhelm for bolting and showing me this amazing line. Might be high end 8c but probably not hard enough for 8c+, time will tell

Video: https://youtu.be/ukm8wVEAs5o?si=gF_TZ82JSM3Cd6rD It’s been more than five years since I first tried the route “Clash of the Titans” back home in Tirol which was first climbed by Alex Megos in 2017. Alex graded it 9a+ back then but to me it always felt substantially harder than that. I’ve done quite a few 9a+ and also 9bs but none of them took as much effort as this route. However, after I finally sent rather quickly last year I wasn’t sure anymore if it really deserves an upgrade making me hesitant to publish the ascent and have a clear opinion on the grade. After all, the route doesn’t fit my preferred style, which is crimping, but there are quite a few open handholds on this one, which gave me a hard time. Earlier this year, the opportunity came up to go back together with Stefano Ghisolfi who checked out the route as well and gave his opinion. Check out the video on my YT channel to find out more.

4th ascent, 2nd try. Such an amazing route and a great day with Adam and Babsy 💪🏻

Such a sick one! Dabbed on the jummp once so got rid of the launchpad, then fell on my ass really badly but luckily send soon after haha Feels more like an 8B to me..

My 3rd 8b+ flash, so psyched! Thanks for the beta and the motivation Michael Piccolruaz You really gotta activate the beast mode for this one, so I thought it might be good to flash, since in a flash go you always try way harder than ever

2nd Ascent after Roland Hemetzberger. shares the crux of 'The Void' but climbs a harder start into it. Since you have such an amazing knee bar in the middle it doesn't make it much harder though, in my opinion.

Really struggled with the crux move at the top at first but with good skin it went down first try today. Really hard to grade since it's mostly about this one single move, could be 9a could be easier for someone who loves pockets I don't know. 2nd Ascent after Roli I think..

2nd Go, might be on the soft side. What a line though!!

I think this was the first ascent after a big hold broke, it‘s an amazing power endurance route and now even more so. Think it is quite a bit harder now, maybe 8c/8c+ before and harder 8c+ now. Loved this climb!!

Thanks to misha for the perfect beta! Pretty hard for 8b

Originally the route was graded 8c+ by first ascentionist Alex Huber but the right hand hold he used on the crux move is basically gone and Adam Ondra found a new beta using a left hand tiny crimp to do the second ascent. I found a way better solution using a good side pull just left of Adam‘s crimp which lets me go directly to the finishing jug. Since this route is pretty much easy except this only move, the whole thing is much easier with my beta now, probably around 8b 😅 It climbs very nicely this way though so I definitely recommend it to people (>170cm) 😉

3rd ascent of this cool line in the upper sector. Took me 4 tries to send it. Thanks for the good times Guido!

Wow such an amazing one!! thanks for the beta and showing us this line Heiko!!

After a relaxed breakfast at my girlfriend’s parents place, we drove to Schleierwasserfall and I warmed up with a 7c route. My buddy Mischa Piccolruaz tried the route Lichtjahre and so I was able to watch him closely and get a good impression of the route.

I was psyched to give it a go as well and after Mischa convinced me I should even try to flash it, I warmed up at the fingerboard and went through the route mentally before I attempted it. The route went really well, I loved the style and I felt on top of my game so I could flash it pretty solidly.

It always takes two, though, to achieve a flash: someone who does the work and checks out the route and then is able to talk you through. It was Mischa who gave me such great support, thanks buddy!

Lichtjahre is located in the grey sector of the Schleierwasserfall, where the routes are slightly shorter (about 20m), it's one of the best routes of the crag and I can only recommend it

Right next to it there are a couple routes that I already knew, as for example Mercy Street which is pretty similar in style so I knew what to expect. A lot of sharp holds and quite difficult from the start. Some bouldery sections with long and powerful moves but good holds. Closer to the end you need to keep it together as it’s all about endurance.

One of the trickier parts was where a big foot hold had broken away a few months ago. Many say the route got a lot harder since then. Even before it was a hard 8c, so it’s absolutely fair for Alex Megos to say it’s an 8c+ now. After flashing something it's always hard to grade it but I think 8c+ could be right, although it didn't feel much harder than Mercy Street for me, so one could argue it's still 8c, we will see what other people will say

Due to my biceps tendon injury I had to adapt my training. Rock climbing proved great for my recovery, so I climbed a lot recently, improved my endurance and that’s why I feel super comfortable on the rocks these days. Psyche for more!

2nd Ascent. In memory of my friend Hansjörg Auer

Alfons grabbed the 2nd ascent and I shortly followed with the 3rd. Awesome line!

crazy fight, not the easiest one to onsight :'D

Such a good one! 3rd Go.

'Retro Flash' which means I briefly tried it a few years ago and climbed it 1st go now (not remembering anything). Thanks for the beta Misha! Fun route!!

3rd Ascent. Opened by Alex Huber in 1994 (when I was 3 years old). Psyched to climb such a fantastic and legendary route! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KskvEEi-m9s&t=17s

From Dark Beauty into Nussknacker, a long one! 2nd Ascent after Christoph. Great to climb and not easy for the grade I think.

8b+/8c not sure.. What I'm sure is that it's one of the best Boulders I have ever done, soooo amazing!! props Flo Schmalzl for putting this one up!

A fantastic line with perfect compression climbing and amazing holds.

2.Ascent

so humid!

2nd Ascent

2nd Go this year, 3rd in total...