Ascents in Südwand

will have to come back for the redpoint, crux pitch is super exposed

Started off relatively well with the first two pitches, despite the bad conditions. The third pitch was completely wet, though, so Jeni switched to aid mode. This, however, took a pretty long time. I managed to second it cleanly and fast, but wouldn't have dared this on lead. We thought the wet pitches were over now, because after the wet chimney start of pitch 4, it looked dry, so we pushed on. I managed to cleanly lead that pitch, the end of which is a brutally hard, polished crack which reminded me of "Steckelesriss" in Burglesau. Jeni started up the next crux pitch, but gave up after half an hour or so, which was the next bad sign. I managed to finish that pitch, but looking at the clock, I was dead sure that we wouldn't make it to the end of pitch 7 in time. I definitely didn't want to get benighted, so we decided to bail. Luckily, there are many glue-ins, so you can back-track relatively safely. Our rope got stuck once, shortly before we reached the ground, but we managed to pull it down after a while.

Abseilpiste haben wir nicht gefunden. Jedoch ist die Route wunderschön. Wir haben die letzte Seillänge größtenteils mobil abgesichert. Evtl. sind wir falsch abgebogen, jedoch hat sich der Grad des Gekletterten passend angefühlt.

Led all pitches, all OS, all bolted apart from exit pitch

alpine MSL in Wechselführung knackig!

Went in a team of 3. First pitch starts with a short but sketchy slab part. Pitch two and three are steeper and need some endurance. After that all pitches were wet and most of the harder parts were unclimbable wet (A0 fun).

Teamonsight

Top linie, steil, anspruchsvoll abzusichern

Geniale Piaz-Schuppe, der Rest unaufregende sportkletterei

MSL mit Michi 7-,7-,7+,7,7+,7,7- TR:1,3,5,7 OS:2,4,6

Pumpiger Riss, heikle Platt- elegant und gut !

Abfahrt in Muc 5:15, Parkplatz 7.00, Wangalm 800, Einstieg um 1030.

Ausstieg und Querung auf Westgrat nicht gefunden und nach L9 über Route mit etwas aufwand abgeseilt.

first free solo ascent

fantastic line next to Locker vom Hocker