4° Vsup E2 D1
An outstanding excursion up the upper third of the massive cliff below Cristo Redentor. One of the classic routes of Rio de Janeiro. Climb of quite varied technique: Dihedral, slabs and holds.
Although not technically difficult, the route begins at 550m above sea level with some sections that are quite exposed. Fast parties can climb it in 2 hours.
This is a very runout sport route (where people have broken ankles falling at P5) or so consider this a mixed trad route with the slab parts still being significantly runout.
Climb the southeast face of the mountain, and is ideally climbed in the afternoon shade. Getting to the start of the route: Walk along the train tracks for about 10 minutes to a shack on your left. Walk along the asphalt road four about 5 minutes and you'll come to a curve in the road. The trail starts here. Follow the trail to the cliff. Look up and you'll see a large dihedral and the start of this route.
P2 & P3 are often done in one pitch.
25m (IVsup): A technical dihedral and out L to ledge and up to DBB.
20m (IV): A delicate, exposed traverse out left and up to DBB (or continue up to P3 anchors.
20m (IV): Delicate and exposed slab up then step R to DBB.
25m (IV): Delicate and exposed out right to DBB.
35m (IV): Slab, irregular dihedral, and irregular crack near the plateau at the end of this pitch. Walk along the dirt track a few metres to P6.
Nuts and cams come in handy at the beginning. A few people have broken their angles falling low down on top the low angled slab.
25m (IV): Slab with four bolts. Tree belay.
After finishing the route, follow the trail up through the grass and jump over the fence. You'll be right under Christ the Redeemer statue.
Double bolted anchors at all stations.
Mostly fixed bolts along the route, but it is advisable to take cams and nuts especially on pitch 3 and/or if you do the variant first pitch (climb the full length of the dihedral).