Routes in Área do Corcovado

Variante de: Solitude

Variante de: Os Certificacionistas

An outstanding excursion up the upper third of the massive cliff below Cristo Redentor. One of the classic routes of Rio de Janeiro. Climb of quite varied technique: Dihedral, slabs and holds. Although not technically difficult, the route begins at 550m above sea level with some sections that are quite exposed. Fast parties can climb it in 2 hours.

This is a very runout sport route (where people have broken ankles falling at P5) or so consider this a mixed trad route with the slab parts still being significantly runout.

Climb the southeast face of the mountain, and is ideally climbed in the afternoon shade. Getting to the start of the route: Walk along the train tracks for about 10 minutes to a shack on your left. Walk along the asphalt road four about 5 minutes and you'll come to a curve in the road. The trail starts here. Follow the trail to the cliff. Look up and you'll see a large dihedral and the start of this route.

P2 & P3 are often done in one pitch.

1. 25m (IVsup): A technical dihedral and out L to ledge and up to DBB.

2. 20m (IV): A delicate, exposed traverse out left and up to DBB (or continue up to P3 anchors.

3. 20m (IV): Delicate and exposed slab up then step R to DBB.

4. 25m (IV): Delicate and exposed out right to DBB.

5. 35m (IV): Slab, irregular dihedral, and irregular crack near the plateau at the end of this pitch. Walk along the dirt track a few metres to P6. Nuts and cams come in handy at the beginning. A few people have broken their angles falling low down on top the low angled slab.

6. 25m (IV): Slab with four bolts. Tree belay.

After finishing the route, follow the trail up through the grass and jump over the fence. You'll be right under Christ the Redeemer statue.

Double bolted anchors at all stations. Mostly fixed bolts along the route, but it is advisable to take cams and nuts especially on pitch 3 and/or if you do the variant first pitch (climb the full length of the dihedral).

K3 is a variant / alternative to K2 P2. It follows the natural dihedral line. From the anchors of the P1 of K2, continue to follow the crack line up.

Take Black Diamond Camalot #.3 to 4. The sequence of pieces can be placed as follows: 4, 3, 1 (or .5), .4 (or .5), .75 and .75a.

Equipo:

• 12 Costuras
• 4 Fitas 60cm
• Mosquetões avulsos
• Jogo de Friends
• Micro-Friends
• Stoppers médios e micros
• 8 Knifeblades variados
• 4 Angles

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Google translated and edited:

Equipment:

• 12 draws
• 4 slings 60cm
• Spare Carabiners
• Friends / Cams
• Micro-Friends
• Micro to Medium Nuts
• 8 Assorted Knifeblade Pitons
• 4 Angle Pitons

A big wall free climb up the south face that's long, hard, and sustained, and it's well protected. The crux comes on the second pitch.

1. P1

2. P2 8° IXc E2 D4; The crux pitch.

3. P3

4. P4

5. P5

6. P6

7. P7

8. P8

Take a single rack, draws, slings.

A classic old climb that goes up the south face. It's an old aid route that has since been freed. The route is notorious and committing, even on pitches that are bolted.

Take a single to double rack.

Via regrampeada em 09/11/2023, estando liberada para escalada.

Em 24/05/2023 fui fazer a via, mas chegando lá vi que tinham roubado as chapas da primeira enfiada

1. Enfiada 1 (50m): a primeira chapa é possível ser vista da base se vc for uma pessoa alta. Antes dela, usa-se cam #1 ao #3, dependendo das fendas que preferir. A fenda antes da P1 pode ser protegida com cams próximos de .5 e .75, mas é possível pular essas proteções, ficando apenas um lance mais longo em E3 de 3°.

2. Enfiada 2 (35m): atenção para não confundir o crux de V com a variante Flutuante de VIIa ao lado. É possível pular o terceiro grampo dessa enfiada (mais a direita) para diminuir o arrasto sem deixar o lance muito exposto.

3. Enfiada 3 (25m): curta enfiada de 3°. Se a corda permitir, é possível rapelar até a base da Ovos na Chapa e evitar a pequena escalaminhada da volta.