★★★ Lagartão 6° VIIc AID:A1

One of the most classic routes in Rio de Janeiro. Extremely varied 300m mixed climb with trad and bolts. A hard face, hard crack, and fun chimney climbing.

1. Pitch 1 (35m): Up cracks to ledge. Two bolts.

2. Pitch 2 (25m): Take crack to the left to ledge then crack up to DBB on bigger ledge with vegetation. Crack on the right at start of pitch is for "Variant Dança das Cabeças".

3. Pitch 3 (25m): Up to next ledges on right then left, and up crack that is bolted for aid climbing but now done free (crux, VIIc). Past ledge at the end of crack, then belay after arête. The "Variant Babuíno Silvestre" goes to the left of the crack, avoiding it all together and it's a VIIa in the Brazilian system.

4. Pitch 4 (25m): Go left then up through a difficult technical face, up a roof, then right to reach DBB.

5. Pitch 5 (45m): Up and slightly left.

6. Pitch 6 (35m): Start moving right, up, then diagonally left and up again.

7. Pitch 7 (30m): Up to ledge then left towards vegetation and slightly right to reach second ledge with DBB.

8. Pitch 8 (30m): Straight up veering slightly right to bolt on bushes.

9. Pitch 9 (30m): Left and up to ledge near bushes. Another 50m walking to summit.

Take large pieces of gear and medium cams - number 1 camalot to a number 4 for the first pitch; the rest of the route is bolted, but run out.