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The highest peak of the Coast Range of BC, Mount Waddington hosts routes ranging from long glacial walkups all the way to highly technical testpieces not often repeated.
Summary
Description
Mount Waddington, once known as Mystery Mountain, is the highest peak in the Coast Mountains of British Columbia, Canada. Although it is lower than Mount Fairweather and Mount Quincy Adams, which straddle the United States border between Alaska and British Columbia, Mount Waddington is the highest peak that lies entirely within British Columbia. It and the subrange which surround it, known as the Waddington Range, stands at the heart of the Pacific Ranges, a remote and extremely difficult set of mountains and river valleys. Source Wikipedia
Approach
Either hike for a week or two up coastal bush-choked valleys from the inlets to the south or the inland plateaus, or take a helicopter. White Saddle Air flies out of Bluff Lake on the Cariboo Highway.
Where to stay
Set up base camp either on Rainy Knob below the Bravo Glacier, or Combatant Col (for the northern routes) or the Epaulette or Buckler Glaciers (for the south).
History
Notable ascents
- 1936 South Face FA by Fritz Wiessner † and Bill House.
- 1942 South Face 2nd ascent by Helmut and Fred Beckey.
- 1977 South Face variation FA of route, 3rd ascent of south face by Jack Tackle and Kenneth Currens.
- 2012 Flavelle-Lane Route First solo ascent of the peak by Colin Haley.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Rich Wheater
Date: 2015
ISBN: 978-0-9877796-5-6
With 300 routes, 600 boulder problems and a handful of fine alpine objectives, Vancouver Rock Climbing provides comprehensive coverage of the diverse climbing scene around Vancouver, Canada.
- Provides detailed coverage of Howe Sound, Caulfeild Sea Cliffs, Cypress Falls Park, Cypress Mountain, Grouse Mountain, Lynn Valley and Deep Cove
- Includes full-color images and maps, descriptions of conditions and approach notes for each climbing area
- Each climb description tells you what gear to use, how many bolts there are, a difficulty rating, the pitch length and where to start and end
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Mon 29 May
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