Routes in British Columbia

The bolted line up the face to the right of Cursed Crack. More interesting than it looks. Different guides vary from 11a to 11d, so take your pick!

Offwidth project

Finger crack on the right side of the cliff.

Left facing corner to a roof, move left into alcove, then back right to finish up finger and hand crack.

Up the left-facing corner to a roof, past alcove then either finish up the thin corner above or the finger and hand crack out right.

The area's money splitter.

Burly fingers to ringlocks through a bulge. Some say .11d

Steep hand and finger crack just left of Crossroads.

Burly.

Up corner then step R through overlaps.

Left-arching crack. Tape on start.

Up arete on block to reach steep hand and finger crack.

Jagged rock to hand crack

Starts up Mouth of Madness, moving right on seams to join 3 Amigos

Start as for Mouth of Madness then step R through linking seams.

Start up right-facing corner on far right of crag, stepping left onto the arete and thin finger crack. Harder than it looks.

Up R-facing corner, step left onto arete.

Left leaning corner splitter that starts wide and narrows. Short but great quality and packs a punch!

50m to the right of Huckleberry Jam. A bouldery start leads to some good crack climbing

Squeeze in the bottom of the chimney and wiggle your way upwards untill you are forced out by the constriction. Continue working your up the offwidth/squeeze chimney to the top of the pinnacle. The direct finish is up the stout 4" crack on the left side. However the first ascent party climbed the finger crack on the right side.

From the belay at P3 of Birds of Prey. Tips splitters into terrific dihedral climbing. 5 pitches in all. 70m rope to rap off.

5.10a, 5.10d, 5.10a

Deep Impact is an extension of 'Halley’s Comet', a classic 60 meter splitter finger crack located on the left side of Dog Wall that was established by Joe Turley and Ted Marks in 1985. Deep Impact links several buttresses providing a well-protected quality crack line in a more quiet area in Squamish. Long splitter cracks, comfortable ledges, and excellent views make for a great day of rock climbing. Source Squamish Climbing Magazine

Climbs the arete 60m left of Photophobia and right of Deep impact. Starts at the big dead tree. P1 follow up bolts swing onto the right of the arete, continue up, ignore the first set of bolts. P2 corner/chimney/fist crack comboto ledge. P3 climb steep hand crack, right past bolt to thin crack, continue up flakes to belay ledge. P4 follow bolts up, use chimney as needed, up corner then step left onto face for some excellent climbing to the top. Its possible to stay left of the bolts 11b or right of the bolts 10d at the top.

Phenomenal climbing (but may need some cleaning).

One of the more travelled routes at Slihany.

P1-2:

follow an older crack climb called Eagels' Domain, with a gear anchor on a small ledge mid-pitch. Alternately you can link the pitches with a 70m rope, or simul-climb the easy start.

P3:

Climb an easy slab up to the striking corner above, some awkward and reachy moves get you established on a small ledge. Then a short layback or technical stemming will allow you to crawl over the lip. A committing step up allows you to traverse the slab left, and around the corner to the anchors.

P4:

climb the low 5th slab left then up towards the tree, and a set of anchors.

P5/6:

Puzzle your way through the corners, and face cracks, finishing with a 5.8 chimney. Don't go into this pitch expecting a burly fight, but a slow methodical puzzle with good rests. Often done as one pitch, alternately there is a good ledge 1/2 way up you can build a gear anchor on.

Original route follows arete to ledge at .11a.

Heart of Darkness continues to top, after .11a pitch at .12c.

This route continues up the arete after the last pitch of Frayed Ends of Sanity (.11a).

Rap in face/slab climb on the grey face, climbers right of Pipeline. If you've climbed a route on Slhanay and still have some energy and skin left on your finger tips, this is a fun and engaging pitch. Easily top roped from the same bolts you rap in on, or pull the rope and commit to a mildly run-out route that sits somewhere between slab and face climbing.

The largest corner on the cliff, visible from anywhere in Squamish. Starts up Birds of Prey, stepping right to the base of the corner at 55m. Pitch 3 can be split in two with chains at 25m if needed.

Top 100 in the Squamish select guide book, and well worth that status.

P1; start up wide corner crack, trend left on thin finger locks and crimps before making a difficult move into the vertical crack. (.10d)

P2; follow low angle corner to gear belay at base of obvious layback corner. (.7)

P3; climb prominent corner using laybacks and stems. Crux is protected by a bolt. Either runout to the chains or fiddly, hard to place gear. (.10C)

P4; 2 bolts protect the overhanging boulder problem straight off the belay. Trend up and right to belay and top out. (.10C)

Starts up corner crack to right of bolted start of Godforsaken Land. Alternate finish goes at 10c by heading up and left across slab on fourth pitch to join The Great Game.

The roof crack 10m to the right of The Great Drain

The roof crack 10m right of The Great Drain

The line of bolts R of XTC, up slab trending right to arete

Gear:

Standard Rack 0.1 - #4, Doubles: 0.1, #0.75, Triples 0.5,- Quadruples 0.2-0.4, Small Nuts and/or RPs, 8 quickdraws, 8-10 alpine draws, and 1 double length sling.

Instead of climbing the 5.8 corner to the rap tat, step left into the double crack and through the roof crack to the top. Great climbing!

Fun technical corner with a tricky crux.