Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Mon 9th Jan 2023 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon House of Cards | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Byzantium. | 25m | |||||
Was super proud when Jon asked me to retro one of his classic routes. Rest in peace Jon. You’re missed. All of the hard work you put into the BV and this sport won’t ever be forgotten.
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Sun 12th Jul 2020 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Chameleon. | |||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Thrushold | 21m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tricky! Slippery feet at the start, serious vert. Very fun
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Sun 12th Jul 2020 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Cat's Eye Wall | |||||||
5.10a | Virtual Light | 9m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Short route leading to swan lake.
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5.10a | ★★ Swan Lake | 21m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Juggy and pumpy, tough moves at the top
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5.9 | ★★ Dead Dog Cafe | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
So fun!
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Tue 9th Jun 2020 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Canadian Forks | |||||||
5.10d | Diva | 13m, 4 | |||||
Messed up the beta at the crux first time around.
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Tue 9th Jun 2020 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon House of Cards | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Aqualung | 42m, 15 | |||||
Not sure what the third bolt is doing so far out to the left.
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Tue 9th Jun 2020 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Casino Crag | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Ace of Spades | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2nd burn
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Tue 9th Jun 2020 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon House of Cards | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ SPF | 39m, 12 | ★ Good | ||||
Linked pitches
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Fri 29th May 2020 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Made in the Shade | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Shadow of Turning | 22m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
You wish the finger crack at the start goes for the whole way! Good route.
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5.10c | ★★★ Pin-toe Flakes | 19m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wow! Consistently super fun moves through steep terrain. Almost botched the onsight. What a great route.
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Fri 29th May 2020 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Crowbar Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Block Buster. | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Boulder to start and then cramped climbing through the corners. Pretty interesting. Stoked to have a second 11a onsight in one day
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Fri 29th May 2020 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Chameleon. | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ A Cold Shoulder | 9m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Stoked to get the onsight on this. Nice boulder problem split by easier climbing.
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Sun 1st Sep 2019 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Casino Crag | |||||||
5.9 5.10a | ★ Luxor | 33m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Lead it when it was a bit wet -- water on some of the holds at the crux made it actually feel like 5.10a -- might feel like 5.9 if actually dry.
Unsustained, but some good climbing. |
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5.9 5.10a | ★★ King of Clubs | 31m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Lead while damp. Still not hard enough to be 5.10a.
Very unsustained. Some fun 5.6 climbing here and there, maybe one 5.9 crux. |
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5.10a | ★★ Poker Face | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The opening section was quite wet, making the start quite a bit more difficult than it should have been -- probably climbed at about 5.10b. It also had several other solidly 5.10a climbing, though with reasonable rests between sections. Definitely a fun climb, and solid at the grade.
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Sun 1st Sep 2019 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon House of Cards | |||||||
5.7 5.8 | ★★ Slowpoke | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Lead it slightly damp -- seemed really easy for 5.8, even dealing with dampness. I'd call it 5.7 at most. But generally fun. (When I finished the lead and got asked what I thought of it, I said it was a really nice 5.6 climb.)
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Tue 27th Aug 2019 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Casino Crag | |||||||
5.10d | ★ Aces High | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fantastic climb with a pumpy top section. Managed to red point on the third attempt. The roof mantle is not as bad as it first looks.
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Tue 27th Aug 2019 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon House of Cards | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ SPF - with Anna Climbs | 39m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Done in single pitch. First pitch a bit too easy for a 5.9, second pitch is a pretty tough 10a with a spicy finish. Anna led this one too.
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Sat 24th Aug 2019 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Casino Crag | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Full House | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great and pumpy with some interesting moves. Anna top roped clean.
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5.10a | ★ Luxor | 33m, 14 | ★ Good | ||||
Boring first section followed by some nice climbing in the top half
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5.10a | ★★ Poker Face | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sadly failed the onsight as I went the wrong way traversing to the right half way into the climb to the unusable X flakes. Red pointed on second attempt.
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Wed 31st Jul 2019 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Chameleon. | |||||||
5.9 | ★ The Truth is out There. | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Easy warmup. First bolt is unnecessary due to flooding.
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5.10a | ★ Dry Heat. | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Better quality than 10 Years. Not straightforward but good holds.
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5.10a 5.10c | ★ Ten Years After. | 19m, 6 | Average | ||||
Upper section slightly crumbly. Otherwise fun if awkwardly bolted.
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Thu 25th Jul 2019 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Chameleon. | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ Lounge Lizard. - with Ethan Woodside | 21m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Got the route clean on TR - now for the send.
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5.11b | ★★ Lounge Lizard. - with Ethan Woodside | 21m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First 11b!
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5.10a | ★ Call of the Wild. | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Fun mellow warmup. Well bolted.
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5.11b | ★★ Lounge Lizard. - with Ethan Woodside | 21m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Incomplete, didn't make it up.
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Sun 30th Jun 2019 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon House of Cards | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Aqualung | 24m, 15 | ★ Good | ||||
Cleaned some loose rocks.
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5.9 | ★ Aqualung | 24m, 15 | ★ Good | ||||
Cleaned some loose rocks.
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Sun 30th Jun 2019 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Casino Crag | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Flush | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Kind of polished start.
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Sun 30th Jun 2019 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon House of Cards | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Revenge of the Luddite | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Crimpy up top had to rest at a couple clips.
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5.8 | ★★ Rock 201 | 7m, 2 | Average | ||||
Basically a boulder problem. 2 bolts. Very polished feet.
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5.9 | Empty Nest | 7m, 2 | Average | ||||
Basically a boulder problem. 2 bolts. Very polished feet.
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Sun 30th Jun 2019 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Cosmology Crag | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Dead Heat | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
First lead above a 5.8. Fell off on the arrete by the second bolt going to the flake, hopped back on and crushed it. Easy rest of the way
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Mon 27th May 2019 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Cosmology Crag | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Cosmic String | 35m, 13 | ★ Good | ||||
Fun slabby V8. Lead it.
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Sat 25th May 2019 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Cosmology Crag | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Outer Limits | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super fun route. Was way too pumped but did all the moves. Need to up my endurance
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Sat 20th Apr 2019 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Cat's Eye Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★ Coconut Joe | 26m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Love some quality chert climbing!
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Sat 20th Apr 2019 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Crowbar Wall | |||||||
5.10b | Face Value - with Ellie | 33m, 12 | |||||
The is a nice route with two very insecure sections. The first is the so called 5.9 start for "Island in the Stream", If this is your first 5.9 attempt at the grade you should stay away from this route it is a sand bag for 5.9, it is more like a 5.10a.
The mid section has some very loose flakes which you should not attempt to use even though they are very tempting. Once you have clipped the bolt on the right face there are some super edges to take you tot he top.
This is a fun route but not a route to be tried on lead if you are not a solid 5.11 climber.
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5.11b | ★ Depth Charge - with Ellie | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
The start is very polished with bad feet. Trust your feet and keep moving up on solid crimps. This is a very rewarding route to onsight.
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Sat 20th Apr 2019 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Cat's Eye Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Catseye - with Ellie | 22m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
The retro bolt is unnecessary and confusing. Better not to clip the bolt and use the original.
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Mon 22nd Oct 2018 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon House of Cards | |||||||
5.10d | Painted Smile | 23m, 11 | |||||
Flake above first red hanger is a bit scary! No really memorable moves, definite crux at the bulge, though.
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5.11b | ★★ Heliopolis | 30m | |||||
The sidepulls! Wouldn't say the start is a "cruise" as the route description in Bow Valley Sport suggests, but the money is definitely on the crux sidepulls. Good stuff!
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Sun 21st Oct 2018 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon House of Cards | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Ashtaroth. | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Despite unseasonably warm weather, climbing in the shade made for cool rock. Nice moves, fairly consistent. Climbed together with p2 for a quality 40m+ pitch.
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5.11a | ★★ Ashtarotha P2 | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Footwork, footwork. Tricky roof problem. Climbed together with p1 for a quality 40m+ pitch.
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5.10c | ★ I heard a Ga-Zump | 20m | |||||
Sustained at the grade. Old copy of Sport Climbs lists this as a 10b, but 10c feels fair.
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5.10a | ★★ Revenge of the Luddite | 18m | |||||
A bit of an odd one. Worth a lap, despite the polish.
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Mon 30th Jul 2018 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Casino Crag | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Bam Bam Got His Funk | 11m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Fine. Again, slab on a wall without any otherwise.
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5.9 | ★ Fred | 11m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Fine.
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5.10b | ★★ Full House | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sustained 10b climbing! Tons of fun, great edges, a variety of moves, with an interesting airy sequence near the top to traverse towards the anchors. Feet are more than a little polished through the middle.
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5.9 5.10a | ★ Wilma | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Interesting slab problem if you need a break from vertical onslaught of the rest of the wall. Downgraded in most books to 5.9.
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5.10a | ★ Wild Card | 9m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Short, fun 10a on good edges.
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5.10c | ★ Long Shot | 9m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool moves on positive, sloping holds. Try not to stray too far left to keep it on grade.
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5.10a | ★ Black Jack | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Fine. Better on the wall.
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5.10a | ★★ King of Clubs | 31m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
One of the best 10a's in the valley, especially for the length. Positive holds and powerful moves near the top right when you are pumping out.
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5.11a | ★★ Ace of Spades | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great climbing on positive edges. Climbs more like a 10b/c for the most part. A hard crux move that comes out of nowhere demands your focus and good body positioning to grab the send.
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5.10a | ★★ King of Clubs | 31m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
One of the best 10a's in the valley, especially for the length. Positive holds and powerful moves near the top right when you are pumping out.
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5.11a | ★★ Ace of Spades | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great climbing on positive edges. Climbs more like a 10b/c for the most part. A hard crux move that comes out of nowhere demands your focus and good body positioning to grab the send.
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5.10b | ★★ Full House | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sustained 10b climbing! Tons of fun, great edges, a variety of moves, with an interesting airy sequence near the top to traverse towards the anchors. Feet are more than a little polished through the middle.
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5.9 5.10a | ★ Wilma | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Interesting slab problem if you need a break from vertical onslaught of the rest of the wall. Downgraded in most books to 5.9.
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5.9 | ★ Bam Bam Got His Funk | 11m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Fine. Again, slab on a wall without any otherwise.
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5.9 | ★ Fred | 11m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Fine.
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5.10a | ★ Wild Card | 9m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Short, fun 10a on good edges.
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5.10c | ★ Long Shot | 9m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool moves on positive, sloping holds. Try not to stray too far left to keep it on grade.
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5.10a | ★ Black Jack | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Fine. Better on the wall.
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Mon 30th Jul 2018 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon House of Cards | |||||||
5.9 5.10a | ★★ SPF | 39m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun, seems to be easy for some and hard for others. More 5.9 territory in my mind.
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5.9 | ★ Aqualung | 42m, 15 | ★ Good | ||||
Fine. Sure, why not.
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5.8 | ★★ Slowpoke | 30m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Get on this before it's polished. Cruiser start leads to a super fun technical crux section near the finish.
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5.8 | ★ Dreamcatcher in a Rusted Malibu | 9m, 5 | Average | ||||
Long and meandering, not great. Better on the wall.
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Mon 30th Jul 2018 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Chameleon. | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ A Cold Shoulder | 9m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great edges that always seem to be there when you need them. Balancey and powerful moves. Recommended!
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5.10b | ★★★ Orange Crush | 17m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fantastic 10b with precarious moves on small feet into power moves to gain the bolts. Tons of fun.
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5.10a 5.10c | ★ Ten Years After. | 19m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Dirty start leads to better climbing. Borderline 5.9. Good warmup for the wall.
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5.10c | ★★ Chameleon | 21m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
High first bolt might seem sketchy from the ground, but is supported by large jugs. Fun climbing leads to a heady crux above the second bolt - airy and satisfying to conquer. Great climb.
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Mon 30th Jul 2018 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Crowbar Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Islands in the Stream (Island in the Stream..) | 27m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Pretty good climb until you have to traverse over 10 feet laterally to reach the anchor. Feels run out and awkward at the end. Not as polished as the site led me to believe.
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5.10a | The Devil You Know | 25m, 8 | Average | ||||
Weird moves, bad feet, hard to read -- not super fun.
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Wed 11th Jul 2018 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Planet X | |||||||
5.13d | ★★★ Fudge Packer | 32m, 18 | |||||
Awesome route
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Mon 9th Jul 2018 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Planet X | |||||||
5.14a | ★★★ Hot Fudge Cream Puff | 35m, 19 | |||||
Broke a couple things. That 12b intro is kinda tough!
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5.14c | ★★ Cobalt Gecko | ||||||
Such a rad one, maybe my favorite on the wall.
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Tue 3rd Jul 2018 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon House of Cards | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Byzantium. | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
very crimpy and hard to read moves
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Sun 1st Jul 2018 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Casino Crag | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Wilma | 14m, 5 | |||||
With Tim Chan
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5.9 | ★ Bam Bam Got His Funk | 11m, 6 | |||||
With Tim Chan
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5.9 | ★ Fred | 11m, 5 | |||||
With Tim Chan
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5.7 | ★★ Pebbles Has Her Groove | 11m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
With Tim Chan
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Thu 7th Jun 2018 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Catamount | |||||||
5.12d | Vagatonic | 17m, 9 | |||||
first 12d. 5th shot
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Sat 12th May 2018 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon House of Cards | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Slowpoke | 30m, 13 | ★ Good | ||||
Pretty fun for a 5.8. The final moves on the last couples of clips make up for the rest.
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Wed 23rd Aug 2017 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Catamount | |||||||
5.9 | Abilene | 17m, 5 | |||||
Stick clip first bolt!
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Sat 29th Jul 2017 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Cat's Eye Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Burning Chrome - with angela B | 28m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Fun left leaning diagonal route. Min 50m rope needed as rap goes downhill left of the belay station
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Sat 29th Jul 2017 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon House of Cards | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Dreamcatcher in a Rusted Malibu - with Angela B | 9m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great warm up climb - watch for the creek level as it can run through belay area.
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Tue 18th Jul 2017 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon House of Cards | |||||||
5.11b | ★ Is That Your Dog? | 25m | Average | ||||
A bit more run out and rock quality a bit iffy. Exciting crux
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5.10c 5.11a | ★★ Ashtaroth. | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Done as one 45 m pitch with P 2
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5.11a | ★★ Ashtarotha P2 | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice roof moves
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5.10c | ★★ Talamasca | 43m, 18 | |||||
P1 10 b, P2 10 c, did as one long route, 18 draws
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5.11b | ★★ Heliopolis | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Another nice long route
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Sun 16th Apr 2017 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Crowbar Wall | |||||||
5.10b | Jack of Clubs. - with raymond, stephanie | 21m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice varied climb with technical face climb to start. Big high step out of the ledge. Nice flakey side pulls to finish.
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Sun 16th Apr 2017 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon House of Cards | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Slowpoke - with raymond, stephanie | 30m, 13 | Average | ||||
Hard for a 5.8 not the best climb to intro new climbers.
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Mon 11th Jul 2016 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Casino Crag | |||||||
5.10c | ★ Long Shot - with Stephanie | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Rough start. Pretty polished right away but after the first bolt it's alright.
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5.10b 5.10a | ★ Wild Card - with Stephanie | 9m, 4 | Average | ||||
Interesting moves. Short but sweet.
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5.10a | ★★ King of Clubs - with Stephanie | 31m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Killed it this time! This is such an excellent climb! Ended the day on a high note.
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Fri 8th Jul 2016 - Canmore | |||||||
Cougar Canyon Casino Crag | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Poker Face - with Kieran | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Much better than the last time in the rain.
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