Ascents in Mont King

Chimney was wet and cold, making it unpleasant and insecure. Rest of the climb was fine. Free-soloed the last pitch this time.

With Chantalle this time... another first multi-pitch for a friend. Always a fun climb.

Went clean unexpectedly easily on TR, despite the initial layback section being a bit wet. I keep thinking about leading it, then thinking again.

Climbed what was, definitely the end of the first pitch of this, but with a clearly different start from the first time I climbed this. Still not sure what the actual start is supposed to be. It may be I climbed something that should be a "direct start" variation this time, since it felt steeper and didn't quite fit the description.

It took me a few tries to figure out the crux sequence, but with another couple runs, I should get it clean. Then, I should look at leading it.

It looks comfortably bolted.

After repeated flailings in the "easy" part, I decided it wasn't worth fighting my way up with aid/belayer assist.

Oh wow did I hang-dog this through the crux section. I might have a hope, with a bit of work on it, to get it... but really hard.

Also, there is a loose hold at the start of the crux section... an under-cling that creaks very ominously when pulled on.

Clean again. Went more smoothly than previous times.

We did the variant, up to the rap station at the top of Rocketman. Second on the first pitch: led the variant second pitch.

I led the first (money pitch. K8 led the 2nd (variant that I suggested) pitch. I figure someone must have climbed that way before -- but who knows, maybe we are first?

The first pitch is fun with good climbing and decent protection -- though sometimes interesting to place. (I placed, I think, 4 tri-cams.)

As for relative difficulty...it is about right for a 5.4 in the Gatineau area -- but most such ratings are generally hard to sandag compared to other areas I have climbed.

The layback moves are pretty burly, and clearly the crux of the climb.

Led pitches 2 and 3: second on pitch 1.

Start of the first pitch feels quite committing for a 5.4 climb, above gear. Rest of climb is fine.

3 of us climbing. Top-rope first pitch, lead 2nd pitch, seconded 3rd pitch.

Failed TR attempt -- the layback holds were wet.

Got all the moves, but one fall and one take.