Hippocampe Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

David Gibbs Honza Korbel Noah Boudreau-Richard Horizen L-P Mark Hurst Andy Sparks Andrew P Isaac ste-marie Sébastien Cyrenne-Bergeron

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Hippocampe 13 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. Hippocampe 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Seasonality

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

description

This is a striking face dominated by a sharp right-facing arete.

access issues

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $14 as of summer 2021, and yearly memberships ($70 as of 2021). Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members of certain sections may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

inherited from Montagne d'Argent

approach

Take the main trail right out of the initial encampment until you see the sign for the L'Hippocampe, at which point branch lef and up along this small rough trail.

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★ Morticia & Gomez	5.5	Trad 40m, 2
2	★★ Juliette & Romeo Direct finish for Morticia & Gomez -- rather than exiting leftwards.	5.6	Trad 40m, 2
3	Blocs Lego	5.8	Trad 20m
4	Ptosys	5.11c	Sport 20m, 8
5	Myosis	5.11a	Sport 20m, 7
6	★★★ L'hippocampe Start from the belay at the end of the 1st pitch of "Ligne d'acier", climb the crack straight up from the belay as it curves up and right, then continuing crack system left of the arete.	5.10b	Trad 20m
7	Derniere Minute	5.10a	Mixed trad 15m, 2
8	Ligne d'acier Climb the face left of the obvious crack to a belay on the ledge. Then move right and up to the arete and continue up the arete, staying on the left side of the arete, finish on the right when no more bolts.	5.11c	Sport 40m, 2, 15
9	★★ L'hypothenuse The lovely crack that starts right facing and curves to almost vertical along the right side of the front face of the cliff. Bolted recently.	5.7	Sport 14m, 8
10	★★★ L'arete des Urubus This route is, essentially, the 2nd pitch of "L'hypothenuse" -- it starts at the anchors for L'hypothenuse, then follows bolts up the right side of the obvious striking arete.	5.10b	Sport 22m, 8
11	★★ L'envers de l'arete This is the first deep crack along the right side of the cliff. (Name means "the other side of the arete".) There are a couple 2nd-pitch projects for this route.	5.10b	Trad 15m
12	Les p'tits mononc The next obvious deep crack along the right side of the cliff as you head a bit uphill. Longer than 30m, descend by rappelling on of the other routes to the left in two stages.	5.11d	Trad
13	★★ Tally-Ho A little farther uphill is another big crack, but rather than having smooth edges, this one has lots of big rough edges. Also, overhanging.	5.11b	Sport

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
5.5	★★	Morticia & Gomez	Trad 40m, 2
5.6	★★	Juliette & Romeo	Trad 40m, 2
5.7	★★	L'hypothenuse	Sport 14m, 8
5.8		Blocs Lego	Trad 20m
5.10a		Derniere Minute	Mixed trad 15m, 2
5.10b	★★★	L'arete des Urubus	Sport 22m, 8
	★★	L'envers de l'arete	Trad 15m
	★★★	L'hippocampe	Trad 20m
5.11a		Myosis	Sport 20m, 7
5.11b	★★	Tally-Ho	Sport
5.11c		Ligne d'acier	Sport 40m, 2, 15
		Ptosys	Sport 20m, 8
5.11d		Les p'tits mononc	Trad