Ascents in Newfoundland

Got to bolt one before it got too hard.

With gloves on.

An enjoyable trad ramble.

The second steep section was not just wet, but wet and slimy, making what would otherwise have been a very enjoyable climb only enjoyable.

Takes decent gear. More engaging than I expected looking at it from the ground -- negotiating the way the right side of the crack leans out over the face makes it feel a lot steeper than it actually is.

Harder than it looks from the ground.

I think I may have cleaned the "loose wedge" that is warned of in the description.

Short but fun.

After we found this and Su A. Alteen lead it, I decided it wasn't worth the bother of cleaning the draws on the lower for this diagonal route, so decided to follow. I didn't bother taking off my belay gloves, just climbed in them. It was, still, super easy. It was graded 5.5, I've down-graded it to 5.2, but not entirely sure it is even 5.2.

And, not really worth climbing, either.

Pleasant.

First climb at the crag, and counting bolt lines from the right, thought this was "Sick Like Dog" (5.7). So, figured it would be a nice 5.7 warm up. That it was not. It was not a very pleasant 5.7, seeming quite hard for the grade. Then I found out that "German Access" was around the corner, oops.

At least it was quite closely bolted.

Some technical thin edge slab climbing and good old slab smears on this one. Happy to get the on-sight, and think it is about 5.10-, so "easy 5.10b" seems fair.

Climbed this after "Photophobia" so chose different holds and movement past the shared bolt to "preserve my on-sight".

Some fun climbing on holds, not just slab.

Some very enjoyable stemming movement in the corner/groove.

Felt like glued (not always solidly) kitty litter.

Solid gear and good stances all the time. No harder than 5.6, I'd say.

Failed to read the downward right traverse.

Thought it was 5.8 when climbing it. Seems no harder than "Walking on Sunshine".

Far easier than "Rain".

Grade is a bit hard... which of the cracks are on at the start? If just the left crack up from the horizontal, then harder than 5.9; if both... 5.9 is reasonable; though a much much stiffer 5.9 than "Drizzle".

Pulled all the moves, but linking... this is the antithesis of my climbing style, nearly continually over-hanging with minimal/no rests that aren't still hanging weight on your arms on better holds. Lots of jugs, though. If I got the sequences wired, maybe red-pointable, as I'd not waste as much energy figuring it out. Bolting was nice, though -- never scary.

Couldn't pull the moves up the dihedral off the ledge at the start.

Having done it once, I think I could red-point this -- nothing I can't pull cleanly, and I think enough rests along the way.

Fun little trade route, with generally good gear. Was told 5.7 (and that local trad grades were stiff), so kept placing gear in case things got hard, but they never did. Probably 5.5, but I'll leave it with the 5.6 down-grade on here.

A lot of fun to TR. Looks like it probably takes good gear, too, but that might cost some holds, unclear. I haven't done a leaning crack like this, with toe-hooking, in ages.

5.10c seems very soft, I don't climb 5.10c anymore, and got this clean. Felt more like 10b.

Thought this was 10d from mistaken guidebook interpretation, so took a few times to read the route, but never felt like I had really needed to, and with it as 10a, that makes sense. Oh well, if I get the change I'll try for the red-point.

Climbing is quite good, but really needs an anchor.

Pleasant little less than vertical sport climb, with nicely featured slab, and some bits of trust-your-feet. Nice way to finish the day.

Surprisingly steep for a 5.8, but there are big, jugs the whole way, though, I occasionally had to convince myself the flakes were solid, and occasionally you had to do a bit of route-finding to find the jugs.

First pitch is an easy slab - not much to it. Second pitch is hard for the grade.

Interesting features and Well bolted