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By the Water

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Description

A small overhung face near the water. This boulder is a part on the slabs where people normally sit and enjoy the river.

When the river level is high the landing area is flooded and debris (mostly big sticks and garbage) is often washed into the landing zone. The landing is more likely dry in Summer and Fall

Access issues inherited from Ontario

In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. The Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) monitors this, and negotiates for access to cliffs, or to avoid closures. They maintain a crag status list at: https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/

The Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry also maintains an online crown land use policy atlas. This can often be used to determine the ownership status of the land on which a cliff is located in Ontario. It can be found at: http://www.giscoeapp.lrc.gov.on.ca/web/MNR/NHLUPS/CLUPA/Viewer/Viewer.html .

Approach

Approach same as 'Hog' but when you are on the slabs that people normally hang out on turn towards the water. There is a crack that is approximately 2 m wide, the moderately overhung face of the crack is boulder.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start low on the obvious two ledges and then go up to a nice juggy ledge. Transition into a small crimp while following the arête to a nice rail and then top out.

FA: Noah De Abreu, 23 May 2020

Start as Styrofoam and traverse the whole boulder using the top rails. Fun warmup

Start as per styrofoam, once the two top rails meet traverse left under the top rails and finish as per Frosted Razor Flakes. Long but fun boulder.

Start as per Styrofoam but eliminating both top rails, traverse the whole boulder using small crimps with a tricky sequence in the middle. Topout as per Frosted Razor Flakes

Same start holds as Styrofoam but traversing left under the roof towards the starting hold of Beached Whale. Once there finish the longer V2/3 traverse left.

Sit start on on some flat crimps facing right, a big deadpoint/dyno to a left hand jug/sidepull. Topout out directly above. Height dependant

FA: Juice "JM", May 2021

Same start as Beached Whale but heading right on small crimps, topout around the corner on a good ledge.

Start on the obvious ledge. Climb up and and slightly to the left using some crimps to get to the rail then top out. A variation going right from the same starting hold exists that goes at about the same grade.

Same start as Beached Whale but traversing left to finish as per Frosted Razor Flakes

Start with left hand in a small slot/horizontal crack and right hand on a very small crimp to the right of a spray-painted heart. Use better holds to go straight up. Both holds can be sharp so be careful.

Sit start with left hand on a small but positive 2 finger hold under the graffiti and right hand on the small crimp as Razor Flakes. Make a hard left hand move to the slot and finish as per Razor Flakes, you can also finish left for the other variation.

Same start as Razor Flakes but traversing left to a big hand slot before toping out on the jug/horn.

FA: Gordon Campbell, Apr 2021

Sit start on the lower warmup holds moving up and to the right, once at the top rail traverse right until the lower rail and top out anywhere on the lower rail.

Sit Start with a left hand on a good incut crimp and left hand on a bad sidepull. Using the 2 Good crimps above the start holds make your way right using a very small crimp/pinch on the face and topout as per Razor Flakes. A hard eliminate.

FA: Georgia Edey, May 2021

Several Variations exist VB-V1, a good place to warm up if the other boulder is busy.

Start with both hands on small ledge to the right of the spray paint, move across to the right edge of the boulder, there are 2 small ledges at about the same height as the start. Move up the right side of the boulder.(some of the ledges are a little sharp so be careful)

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