Routes in Outaouais for selected grade

Start about 20m left of the obvious chimney start of Rocketman, at the lowest point of a slabby section of rock, immediately right of overhangs.

1. Climb up the slabby rock until it steepens. Traverse left on good holds, past a small cave and up a short right-facing corner to ledges. Continue up the obvious crack above to easy ground.

2. Scramble to the top, or more obviously, to the 2nd belay of "Rocketman", then rappel "Rocketman".

Start 12m left of the obvious chimney (Rocketman), at the top of a steep drop in the trail at the base of the cliff.

1. (5.4) Traverse out left on a ledge, squeezing past a small tree. Climb up then slightly left and up again to a small cave (which used to have an owl's nest in it). Climb straight up from the cave to an obvious cedar tree, reaching high for excellent hand holds. (Note: the climb from the cave up to the cedar tree can easily feel like 5.7.)
2. Traverse right on a ledge, cut back left up an incline and up the corner and over the top to easier ground or climb straight up on the right to the corner. Continue up and left, up a corner to a small pine tree and up the slab, past the pine to the rap station at the large pine tree. (2nd belay of Rocketman.)

Start at the obvious left-leaning chimney.

1. (5.4) 32m - Climb the left wall of the obvious chimney to a large dead tree. Traverse left to a leftwards trending ramp, and follow it to a large pine tree. Belay on two bolts. (Much nicer stance than the original belays off the tree.)

2. (5.4) 32m - Step right from the belay and climb up past another, smaller, pine tree, moving left then back right and up a crack to easy ground. Go left and up to a small cedar, then up a slabby rock past a bent pine to a prominent straight pine and 2-bolt anchor. (This pitch climbs about 33m in length, but rappels at about 28m, so fine on a single 60m rope.)

3. (5.1) 32m - Continue straight up the center of the slab behind the pine tree, following an obvious crack line to a 2-bolt anchor. (This pitch rappels at about 31m, so a 60m rope might stretch to the anchor, or you might have to climb down a couple feet. Be careful not to let go of both ends of the rope in case rope stretch is what got you to the anchor.)

To the right of the large sloping overhang is another big easy-angled wall, capped by overhangs.

1. (5.1) 18m - Climb the wall, trending right towards a corner which is climbed to a good ledge and cedar tree belay.
2. (5.4) 20m - Climb a wide crack behind the cedar tree, bypassing the overhangs. Once above the level of the overhangs, go diagonally rightwards over easy ground to a tree belay.
3. (5.0) 50m - Scramble to the top. (Or rappel back down.)

To the left of Left Arete is broad slabby face, climb this joining Left Arete at the top of the face where it narrows.

Left of Right Arete is a steep gully with a large tree on the right. Follow the arete on the left of the gully to the top.

As you follow the arete up and leftwards from the nose, it is smooth until it encounters a small overhang with a crack below it. This climb starts below this break in the arete. It starts up a finger crack, the gets wider and steeper as it ascends, to a surprisingly steep lay-back section. Intimidating for a 5.4, but takes good gear all the way.

At the top, step right to a small triangular ledge. There are two old pitons slung as a rappel anchor. If belaying from here, backup gear in the crack up and left from the ledge might be a good idea.

Up the large corner at the left end of the cliff, past two evergreens to the top.

Face climb up to the ledge (crux harder than 5.4) and follow the corner up the middle of the face.

Follow the right-curving feature up the slab and exit at the back of the block in the right-facing dihedral.

Climb up a section of featured rock a few meters right of Jam Along, up to where the crack of Jam Along meets with the slab. Finish up the slab.

Start at some cracks just left of the arete and climb up and past some vertical flake cracks, to the top.

A couple meters left of "Bolt Line 3" is a small right-facing corner with a crack at the back. Start up this corner following it until it peters out, then angle gently up and left as gear allows. Finish by stepping left onto the ledge just below the anchors for "Ground Zero", pull up and right, then finish at the "Ground Zero" anchors.

(This climb is not described in a guide book from 2001 (which references works back to 1991), nor in more recent books/updates. It seems likely it has been climbed at some point in the last 30+ years of climbing on the escarpment, though the state of the moss and dirt in the cracks suggests not recently.)

Start a short scramble down and left from the start of "Another Brick in the Wall", bolt for belayer.

Climb a short sequence of 5.4 moves past 3 bolts, then an easy (5.1ish), well-protected 20m romp to the anchors.

A good climb for learning to lead on gear.

This climb does not easily top-out. (Well, it mostly does, but with no easy trail back to the rest of the top-outs.)

Start at the foot of a large corner capped by a big overhang.

1. (5.4) Climb 3m to a large ledge. Climb the corner to a ledge, still well below the overhang. Step down and traverse left to a wide crack. Climb the crack until level with the overhang on the right. (Variations exist.)
2. (5.3) Traverse diagonally left up a crack to a pine tree, then scramble up slabs to the top.

Can be done in one pitch with a long rope and a lot of rope drag.

The left most crack on North Wall, and a large one. It tends to be quite dirty as well. Not often climbed, and without anchors at the top.

Start up as per The Canopy, and about 1/2 way branch right and climb up the corner. Also tends to be dirty.

Fissure continue de taille variée.

Crack at the left side of the main cliff.

Start at the same place as The Canopy - on the left side of the flake near the base of the cliff. Do a rising traverse rightwards following the the obvious long diagonal crack.

Start below the large thin flake. (It feels really solid, but I wouldn't put pro under it, it is large and thin.) Follow the obvious large crack to 2 bolts for anchors.

Takes protection really easily -- a good route for a first trad lead.

From "Left Wing" -> "Main Cliff"

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Look for a large detached flake (up to body-width seperated at the top of it) that climbs about 4-5m up from the base. Climb this, then step from it across onto the main face. Climb fairly directly up from there, staying to the left of the large (3m high) completed detached pillar/block about 1/2 way up the face. (Not obviously just-sitting-there from the bottom, but is so as you climb past it.)

This is a rope-stretcher for a 70m rope, but the opening couple of meters or so to the base of the detached flake can be scrambled.

Starts about 4m left of "Nightcap".

Climb onto the short slab, then up the steep rock on good holds to finish up the slab above; anchor is below a boulder.

Close-bolted and a good beginner lead.

The route starts on the boulder to climber's right of "You Can't Judge a Book by its Cover", in between the poplar and small cedar. Go up the slab, trending right and up towards a large detached flake, then continue up terraces until the final slab and anchor.

A rope-stretcher on a 60m -- tie a knot in the end of your rope.

A bit of 5.4 climbing at the start and end -- easier for the rest, but pleasant and interesting climbing.