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Secteur Central Guide

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 8

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Karim Sedky Patrick Iseli DavidV L-P

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Secteur Central 13 routes in Sector

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Trad climbing and Sport climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Marée Noire / #10 Project 2009

Start climbing the rightward crack towards the slab section. Continue on a traverse.

FA: Guy Parent, 2009

5.12b Sport 18m
2 Caressons la bouteille

Begin climbing onto a ledge above which you clip the first high bolt. Continue to a slab from which you will see the final bolts.

Set: Daniel brouseau, 2007

5.10- Sport 23m, 7
3 À l'Abordage

A steep climb in and over the roof section of the wall, the bolts are easily visible.

FA: Socrate Badeau & Guy Parent, 2009

5.12c/d Sport 22m, 10
4 Le traversier

Begin climbing on Jules & Bertrand and then cross under the roof.

5.9 Trad 25m
5 Laurel et Hardy

Another variation beginning from the Jules & Bertrand line.

Set: Guy Parent & Socrate Badeau, 2009

5.9 Trad 25m
6 Jules & Bertrand

Cross the roof after the block.

Set: Frédéric Leblanc & Jean-Claude Néolet, 2006

5.8 Trad 28m
7 S’melle de moufette

Climb the face between the two cracks.

Set: Socrate Badeau & Guy Parent, 2008

5.11c Sport 24m, 8
8 Bidule Express / #16 Project 2009

A variation of Dieb, starting at the arete, making it a longer climb.

FA: socrate Badeau & Stefane Leveille, 2016

5.10 Trad 23m
9 Dieb

Climb along the black dihedral and continue towards the arete.

5.10b Trad 20m
10 Frankenstein

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 2008

5.7 Sport 23m, 12
11 Tite-Rachou

Climb the parallel crack system.

FA: Jean-claude Neolet & Daniel Brousseau, 2006

5.6 Trad 18m
12 M'Auront

Start right of Tite-Rachou, later join the route at the meeting crack.

FA: Socrate Badeau, 2008

5.9 Trad 18m
13 Moron Pas

The crack on the right passing the roof.

5.11b Trad 18m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5.6 Tite-Rachou Trad 18m
5.7 Frankenstein Sport 23m, 12
5.8 Jules & Bertrand Trad 28m
5.9 Laurel et Hardy Trad 25m
Le traversier Trad 25m
M'Auront Trad 18m
5.10- Caressons la bouteille Sport 23m, 7
5.10b Dieb Trad 20m
5.10 Bidule Express Trad 23m
5.11b Moron Pas Trad 18m
5.11c S’melle de moufette Sport 24m, 8
5.12b Marée Noire Sport 18m
5.12c/d À l'Abordage Sport 22m, 10
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