Ascents in Squamish Buttress

Linked 'Banana Peel' into 'Bommstick Crack' into 'Squamish Buttress' into 'The Butt Light'.

6h up, 1h30 down.

Approach shoes all the way.

Linked 1+2, 3+4, then did a short scramble pitch to base of butt light (5.9). From there, I ran a long pitch to a tree just below the 5.8 chimney.

Gets a mega classic from me for the variety and unique moves - not very often you can chimney and layback at the same time. Great climbing high above the hordes on the apron and the highway noise, and you get a chance to see people crushing on the Prow Wall.

Took a #4 but couldn't find a placement on P6 (I looked), still salty about dragging it up all the way to the top. Gear is good on the climb and the two bolts on the crux pitch makes it feel much easier than other 5.9s. Thought the whole climb was soft for the grade.

Great climbing with a challenging crux pitch! Approached via Calc Crack and Memorial Crack. So fun!!! Team Onsight, Date Approx

only the .10c pitch is worth doing, but the rest is shite

Not worth all the pez climbing to access what is also an overrated crux pitch. I'd give this .10c (20 Ewbank)

Fun rambling for first 4 pitches, then when you start to want some real climbing, you're at the base of the 10c pitch, Awesome, sustained and involved climbing on this guy. Makes you work hard for the grade.

Did the alternate 5.9 start up the bolted arete and found it super challenging and thin. Cruisy for the next three pitches then we bailed onto Butt Light.

A butt puckering little trad forest topout, eh

Linked into Butt light.

Almost came off this pitch so many times, so stoked to get the Onsight!

10c pitch was pure joy!

Locky lead the 5.9 pitching I did the chimney. Was so tired by that point was getting mega elvis leg. 19 pitches done!

Swinging leads. Was expecting the 5.7 to be harder. Kept waiting for the tricky part.

Not too bad. I enjoyed the chimney. Definitely gets you thinking!

Awesome finish for a journey up the Chief. A bit of everything in this last section with some exposed flake pulling, scary chimney section and then some more exposed ledge walking up the top. Great day!!!

Great climbing. I’d take the finger crack and traverse over the chimney given the option, but both are fun.

The chimney pitch was super neat!

Final link up to finish my first lap up the chief!

15 pitches, 500+m in 8.75 hours.

Swung leads from base to top, linking some pitches

No need for a #4 or #5. Chimney can be protected with a thin finger sized cam high up.