Ascents in 陕西 Shaanxi having Beta

sent with 5th attempt, power endurace, has great rest spots

30多米的长线，前边仰角大点，中间简单回血，最后出现难点仰角侧拉+反屋檐，酣畅淋漓！

差一点，好可惜。比较均匀的线路，可惜在高处听不到beta

大点爽线，需要耐力，感觉3把应该差不多

国内少有可爬性高的运动攀大岩壁。目前速攀记录是3h45min

4.35出发

4.45到达徒步起点

5.45到岩壁点

6.04开始攀爬

7.08pitch4平台

13.29登顶

13.47开始下降

15.43降到pitch4平台

16.21平台开始继续下降

16.42降到底

17.34下到底

总算拔草。

接近相当难走，但一路有红布条，不至于迷路。在起步点以后5分钟以内如果没切到右边红布条路线，可能就走错了。顺着流水沟一直走。

第五段前半段难点有绳子可以抓。

12a的那段用扁带做一个绳梯比较好aid挂下一把快挂。

第七段11b即使aid也没法作弊过，得有通过难点的能力，当然，挂绳器另说。

第十七段顶的单bolt有点蛋疼。为什么不多打一个呢？

第十三段避免冲坠，右边缝的岩石很锋利

The approach was OK, the trail was clearly marked with red tapes. Try not to go down in the dark, although it’s still OK to do it. Pay attention to and follow the red tags.

Day 1: Pitch 1 - 4, hauling bags to the top took a lot of time and effort. In hindsight it would’ve been better to not haul the bags but to carry them on our shoulders instead. Pitch 1 - 4 are rather short. Spent a night at pitch 4.

Day 2: Started climbing at 7am, completed pitch 5 - 19 in about 7 hours or so (Maybe more including wayfinding of pitch 19) Pitch 19 was not obvious to find. We went left from pitch 18 where we should’ve gone right.

7 simul raps from pitch 19 all the way down the ground with 2 70m ropes (In the rain!) A team of 4 (2 groups)).

We were racing against the rain clouds, got rained off on the way down.

Blue Glacier is (apparently) China’s longest sport route, covering 19 pitches of golden granite slab. We climbed the route over two days, with an overnight bivvy on the ledge above pitch four. We aided on all pitches where we failed to onsight.

4:45 a.m. Wake up

5:15 a.m. Start preparing

7:40 a.m. Begin pitch 5

2:20 p.m. Arrive at the large ledge below pitch 19, spend almost an hour finding pitch 19

3:20 p.m. Arrive at the top of pitch 19, summit

Detailed trip report: https://thecloudocean.com/2021/05/28/eggplant-mountain-may-2021/

拖了两天补给跟吊帐到第八段，然后休息一天后爬，爬的总用时42小时，带上吊帐爬线就挺艰难的

大活儿必须细节纪录时间 能力不到位只好很无耻的一顿抓挂 期待下次free掉

轻装快速，一日往返

5点多出门，6点多开始爬，到顶3点半，下来已经7点半了，十三个小时的挣扎，下降得趁早。挂抓的数量不多但抓了，或者说抓了但抓的数量不算太多哈哈哈

好难…………………

好线，动作非常丰富。后半段的点是我摸得比较少的sloper的点，然后今天摩擦力又巨差，疯狂抹粉。。第二个难点冲坠小心落到平台，今天一共冲了十几次吧。。

爬到一半暴雨，我服了

第二段两把挂绳位置不好，耗力竭

大腿扛不住...

又是哪儿哪儿都能休息系列，线很少人爬有些脏，平台手点滑啊……赶在雨下大之前爬掉了，lucky

都什么手点…对这条线没什么欲望…也爬不上去

差两个动作挂顶，力竭。最后一个平台左横移消耗太大，还是右边直上香。

对我来说，反提向右和结束是难点

2天 #4go 难度均匀，无尖锐难点，整体偏小臂耐力，感谢保护员们雨天里的耐心。 有beta, os别看。 两个好休息点将线路分为三段。第一段整体动作最难，小仰角抱石风格；第二段直壁sloper耐力；第三段有个小难点，用flag/同侧发力过的，后面还是sloper/crimp耐力，身高臂展够的走右边能简单些。 身高臂展够的有优势 #soft 12d

#TCL

后半段到顶很有意思，魂飞魄散的推荐

#TCL

气死，好歹终于找到了beta，辛苦保护员童鞋

感觉比较适合小个子，没啥难点

顶绳好快乐

矮个子冲坠有风险

挂顶顶动作太好玩了

thought I was on something easier but ended up mostly fine but super super wet so just hangdogged up it.

sent with 5th attempt

sent with 3rd attempt

又是一条好线！全程均匀且无尿点，结束也是平衡小难点，高质量的花岗岩。

受到了亿点slab震撼

很好玩的线，第一次戴头灯攀岩

两把都没有爬掉，线路不错

难点犹豫了一下，然后倒来倒去把自己搞没力了，好容易缓过来些，最终还是初始动作上去！我在搞什么…

难点蛮要指力的

sent with 2nd attempt