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大榕树-同门山地区 JinBao Confluence Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Singing Constantine Dritsas Bing Andrew Samuelson81 Andrew Clark peta barrett

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. 大榕树-同门山地区 JinBao Confluence 140 routes in Area

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 24.742382, 110.472928

access issues

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

inherited from 阳朔 Yangshuo

1.1. 遇龙河边 Dragon River Crag 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 24.742741, 110.480585

description

A hotel opened in the area, so as of November 2023, the crag is inaccessible

Dragon River Crag is a small crag located around 20 meters from the Yu Long river. The crag contains only a few routes, however the upper hard pitches are on excellent rock. The crag is in the sun until late afternoon.

access issues

There are 2 main routes at this crag: Old Fisherman and Dragon Encounters. These two routes both have mid-point anchors and denoted easy first pitch climbs. All four of these routes share the same four bolt start.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Saw

This pitch breaks away from SCREAM after a few bolts then finishes at a mid-belay. A second belay located further up the route is for rapping off the upper pitch.

FA: Qiu Jiang & ADong, 2009

5.10b Sport 25m, 10
2 Old Fishermen

This is the extension to SAW and finishes at the top anchor. The mid-belay is only for descent due to the length of this pitch.

FA: Qiu Jiang & ADong, 2009

5.12a Sport 45m, 24
3 Scream

This pitch finishes at the 1st anchor.

FA: Qiu Jiang & ADong, 2009

5.9 Sport 20m, 9
4 Dragon Encounters

This pitch fit the extension to SCREAM and finishes at the top anchor without stopping at the midpoint belay station. The mid-belay is for descent due to the length of this pitch.

FA: Qiu Jiang & ADong, 2009

5.12d Sport 45m, 24
5 Wrong Turn

This route starts to the right of the others but finishes at the same anchor as SCREAM.

FA: Xi Tang, 2008

5.9 Sport 20m, 7

1.2. 金水岸 Golden River Side 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 24.750140, 110.463631

description

approach

Well into the tourist park, you'll encounter a bridge with plenty of motorbike traffic, this is Workers bridge or AKA GongNong Qiao. jsut before this bridge turn right and continue for 3.5km until you find a hotel with a small blue windmill on the roof. The trail begins from the carpark on the right side of the hotel. It will be grown over but was cut out thoroughly so you should be able to follow it.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Golden River Side / 金水岸

FA: Toni Arbones, 2012

5.11d Sport 40m, 19
2 Five Years / 5年

FA: Toni Arbones, 2012

5.12a Sport 18m, 10
3 Seven Months / 7个月

FA: Toni Arbones, 2012

5.11b Sport 18m, 9
4 Swindler / 骗子

FA: ABond, 2012

5.10b Sport 20m, 8
5 Playboy / 花花公子

FA: ABond, 2012

5.10b Sport 25m, 9
6 Bless You In The Face 当面祝福

Four pitch route starting from the ground, joins several others at a belay station then clibs diagonally up and right for P2. continues straight up for P3 and P4. the higher you go, the more difficult it becomes.

5.11c Sport 80m, 4
7 Two Eggs / 两个蛋

FA: San Wen Yu

Set: Toni Arbones, 2012

5.12c Sport 30m, 10
8 Scoundrel / Bad Egg 坏蛋 / Scoundrel 5.12a Sport 30m, 11
9 Happy Dick 快乐鸡鸡

open project

Set: Toni Arbones

SportProject 40m, 18
10 No Future 没有未来

open project - finishes at the mid point anchor of Happy Dick.

Set: Toni Arbones

SportProject 30m, 9
11 Obese Monkey / 胖猴子

Open Project

5.12d SportProject 20m, 10
12 White Men Can't Jump 白人不会跳

Set: Duncan Brown

FA: Connor Dickinson

5.12a Sport 20m, 8
13 Young Bees 追蜂少年

FA: Zhang Yong

5.12c Sport 22m, 12
14 Searching Dragon 寻龙

Pitch one 5.11C Pitch two 5.12D Pitch three 5.12B

FA: Qiu Jiang

5.12d Sport 70m, 3
15 Yeman 亚芒

Open project

Set: Qiu Jiang

SportProject 25m

1.3. 大榕树 Banyan Tree 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 24.735730, 110.477897

description

The Banyan Tree Crag is pleasant and located across the river from the touristy and real Banyan Tree Scenic Area. The climbing is on two sides of a large buttress.

approach

From the main road, cross the river by way of a low weir and continue into the village. take a left and go around the karst tower in front of you. after 150m look for a few houses on the left and a steep bamboo covered hill on the right.... behind the bamboo is the the main face.

history

there were routes on the back a long time ago, but since then a wall has been built and disrupted the routes... quite dangerous and best to stay away. those routes are not listed here.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Heavy Rocks

FA: Michal Duda

5.10a Sport 25m, 9
2 Nice Route

FA: Ola & ola przybysz

5.10b Sport 27m, 13
3 Redneck Lunch

FA: Luke Mc Tighe

5.12b Sport 25m, 13
4 Treehugger

FA: Jodi Mohrhardt

5.11c Sport 25m, 9
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 Xiao ji / 小鸡 / Chicks

Easy start, easy finish. Crux frustrates people and have been called sandbag. upgraded from 11a, but maybe not...its actually not difficult, just balance and timing put together.

FA: Qiu Jiang

Set: Tyson Wallace, 2011

5.11b Sport 25m, 10
6 New Day

sustained crux...good, but difficulty backs off too quickly

FA: Qiu Jiang, 2009

5.11d Sport 25m, 9
7 False Reality

This is the route that spits many people off. originally graded 12b. low percentage and committing with high feet.

5.11c Sport 20m, 7
8 False Reality Extension

Pumpy but fun through an intimidating overhang. anchor material is marginal, but safe? I used them in 2018.

5.11b Sport 38m, 2, 13
9 Big mushrooom

first 2 bolts same as 5.11b. moves right past a mushroom tufa.

FA: LiuDeChao & Qiu Jiang

5.12c Sport 20m, 9
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 La Liao

Warning, fourth bolt on this routes looks in really poor condition.

FA: Oscar Gimenez, 2009

5.12d Sport 30m, 11
11 Nine Deep, One Shallow 难度表

finger testing... one long draw at the crux helps immensely.

FA: Gerome Pouvreau, 2005

5.13d Sport 25m, 11
12 Monkey Fur 猴毛 / Todd Skinner Line

Todd Skinners route. An Endurance Party. Old bolts weren't removed when it was rebolted so clip the shiny new hangars instead of the rusty ones.

阳朔的第二条线路,也是阳朔定级的难度基准

Set: Sam Lightner Jr & Todd Skinner

FA: Todd Skinner, 1990

5.12b Sport 25m, 11
13 Shattered Ego

To the right of the Todd skinner route. a hold broke so it has lost quality.

FA: Oscar Gimenez, 2009

5.12a Sport 25m, 11
14 Twelve Years / The mirror/Da geng

othewise known as the The Mirror becasue it is as featureless as one.

Set: 2002

FA: Wang Qinghua, 2014

5.14a Sport 17m, 11
15 Open Team / 海选

maybe its a crack? smear the feet and you'll be happy. try hard or go home.

FA: Jenny Zhu & Emanuelle Lacoste, 2005

5.11b Sport 12m, 6
16 Open Project

Open Project. This is the extension of Open Team / 海选. Likely 5.14b/c. Due to bolt placement constraints some long slings are need to extend draws. The climb has 3 cruxes and no hands free rests. It finishes above the large overhang. Proposed name: A bead on the necklace of time.

Set: Eben Farnworth, Oct 2021

Sport
17 Pietasters

shares start with "Open team". climbs all the way to the rope anchor. if you stop short... grade is reduced to 12d.

FA: Steve McClure, 2001

5.13c Sport 22m, 7
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

朝阳墙 Morning Glory

快到达主墙时右转,沿小径走30米,即可到达。(这里有村民养殖蜜蜂,请不要触碰蜂箱。) Once you see the main wall, proceed right through a narrow path for around 30 meters. You’ll get to the Morning glory wall. BE CAREFUL the local villagers might be breeding honey bees 🐝 🐝

19 Lounging Lizards

Very enjoyable climb for the grade. The hanger is missing on the last bolt (10/2019) but the climbing to the anchor is easy.

FA: Morgan Heater

5.8 Sport 24m, 8
20 Beautiful Day

Nice climbing on pockets.

FA: Paul Collis & Bob Keaty, 2005

5.10a Sport 25m, 9
21 Happy Hour

Nice climb with a crux end.

FA: Paul Collis & Bob Keaty, 2005

5.10b Sport 20m, 10

东北面 North East Face

23 Leuhng Chong/secret food store

This route is hidden on the backside of the crag. the only route still climbable near the wall. there isnt an anchor.

FA: Paul Qiu, 2003

5.12a Sport 15m

1.4. 同门山 Twin Gates 24 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 24.742490, 110.470583

description

Twin Gate incorporates Twin Gate Mountain, Twin Gate Mountain South Face and Twin Gate Mountain Western Tower. Twin Gate Mountain is the main climbing area offering excellent routes in a beautiful location amongst rice fields. The main crag is shaded in the afternoon and the river located nearby is a nice place to swim during the warmer months.

approach

1.4.1. Western Tower 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 24.742533, 110.470533

description

100m left of the end of the main cliff is a separate karst tower.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Penthouse Platforms / 顶楼

This route tops out with fantastic (almost 360 degree views) of the surrounding Karsts.

FA: Dave Giddon, Simon Wilson & Eman Lacoste, 2005

5.10a Sport 53m, 3, 19
2 Bicycle Tricycle Man

Pitch one 5.10B Pitch two 5.8 Pitch three 5.11A

55m rap to descend.

FA: Nick Williams & Lindsay Griffin

5.11a Trad 55m, 3
3 Part Retrobolt of BTM

Just left of bicycle train.

FA: Dave Gliddon

FA: Dave Gliddon

5.9 Sport 18m, 9
4 Jamming for Dummies

FA: Dave Gliddon, Simon Dilks & Jack, 2006

5.9 Sport 18m, 8

1.4.2. South Face 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 24.742640, 110.470849

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Flash

Starts around left from Beautiful Shadow, past the hole back into the the main cave.

FA: Paul Collis & Jeanette Holmes-Thomson, 2002

5.10a Trad 55m, 2
2 Scottish VS / Chinese Very Severe / 中国人很严肃

Starts around left of Beautiful Shadow. Up the right wall of the hole through to the main cave.

FA: Eben Farnworth & Ali Rose, 2008

5.10a Trad 55m, 2
3 Beautiful Shadow / 一个昆明人 / Some Guy From Kunming

Starts left of the two caves with tables. A techy crux low leads to some powerful moves higher up.

FA: Morgan Heater & Pablo

5.11a Sport 25m, 7

1.4.3. East Wall 17 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 24.742727, 110.471067

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Flying Poop / Piao Shi / 飘屎

split left off second bolt of blood into a balancy and crumbly dihedral, fingery moves up ...interesting rock.

FA: Andrew Hedesh, 2012

5.12c Sport 30m, 12
2 Blood / 血滴子

Left line on the pillar between the two caves with tables. The bulging crack of the second pitch is easily visible above the anchor.

FA: Wang Er & Chong ZI

5.10d Sport 20m, 8
3 Blood Extension / 血滴子延长线

FA: Paul Collis

5.11a Sport 25m, 13
4 Summer School / 七月的学校 / Qi Yue De Xue Xiao

FA: A Niu & Zhang Yong

5.11b Sport 17m, 7
5 Xiao Feiji / 小飞机 / Ta Ma De 他妈的

FA: Ken McMahon, Karen McMahon, Paul Collis & Xi Tang

5.11c Sport 25m, 2, 14
6 Anti Polar / Antipoides

From the back of the cave to lower off midway to the front.

FA: Felipe Borderas, Duran & SGarlic

Set: 2004

5.12b Sport 11
7 No Goats, No Glory / Big Plane Alternate Start / Dyno-mite

Warning Fixed Gear: third bolt missing

Right wall of the right cave, through the tufa/stalactites and then up to join Big Plane.

FA: Felipe Borderas, D Duran, SGarlic & DeS Jenkins

Set: 2004

5.12d Sport 20m, 6
8 Big Plane P1 / Da Feiji / 大飞机

There is also one anchor before the overhang.

FA: Ken McMahon & Karen MacMahon, 1998

5.11b Sport 25m
9 Da Feiji P2 - Air Miles Extension

FA: Xi Tang & Paul Collis, 2003

5.11c Sport 20m
10 Da Feiji (pt3)-Frequent Flyer Finish

FA: xi tang & Paul Collis

5.11+ Sport
11 Da Pi Gu 大屁股 / Alligator Head 鳄鱼头

FA: Ken McMahon & Karen McMahon

5.9 Sport 20m, 7
12 Three point Five / 三点五

Technical climbing to the right of DPG.

5.11b Sport
13 Xin Jiang Black / 新疆黑

1st Pitch: 5.10c, 10 bolts 2nd Pitch: 5.10b

FA: Ken, Karen McMahon, XiTang & Paul Collis

5.10c Sport 45m, 2
14 Hard On, Easy Off

From belay of Xin Jiang Black head up and right instead of up and left.

FA: Josh Latila & Andrew Hedesh, 2010

5.11a Sport 23m
15 Smokin'

Cruxy start geting onto the wall, then traversing right into the corner. Technical climbing on good rock.

FA: Ken & Karen McMahon, 1998

5.8 Sport 20m, 8
16 Indulgence / 纵容

FA: Jack & Xiao Hao

5.10d Sport 25m, 11
17 Short Holiday / 短暂假期 / Dyun Jaam Ga Keih

Bottom half is run out. A few wires might help.

FA: Qiu Jiang, 2003

5.10c Sport 15m, 3

1.5. 四方山 Square Mountain 51 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 24.741299, 110.468190

description

Square Mountain includes a meandering staircase that will take you to and through two very large caves, Treasure Cave and Brother's Cave respectively.

The crag is always in shade and can get very cold and windy during the cooler months. Some of the climbs are dusty and the protection is sometimes dubious. The climbing itself is generally excellent.

access issues

The area is managed by Yangshuo Base Camp, whom operate a zip-line in Treasure Cave. Please be respectful.

approach

  • 百度地图导航 到 喜宁阁客栈 附近 From the parking lot follow the obvious trail. You’ll soon see a muddy water pound on your left. At this point take a right and go through the fields. A staircase path will soon be visible, Taking you through the staircase wall, and all the way to the two caves
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

1.5.1. Staircase Wall 17 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 24.740965, 110.468232

description

Many of the routes require a 70m rope.

approach

From the parking lot follow the obvious trail. You’ll soon see a muddy water pound on your left. At this point take a right and go through the fields. A staircase path will soon be visible, Taking you to the staircase wall

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

1st

Seven Up Eight down, Never Surrender, Pheonix II start on the right side of the first cave.

Ant Farm and Michael Jackson are located at the second cave

2 Seven Up Eight Down

Starts at the right side of the first cave. Shares the first bolts with Never surrender and splits left

FA: Qiu Jiang, 2012

5.10a Sport 35m, 16
3 Never Surrender

Starts at the right side of the first cave. Shares the first bolts with Seven Up Eight Down and splits right

FA: Qiu Jiang, 2012

5.10b Sport 35m, 15
4 Pheonix II

Last route accessible from this trail

FA: Cheng Fu, 2012

5.9 Sport 35m, 16
5 Ant Farm

It starts on the left of the second cave.

FA: Jack, 2012

5.11a Sport 33m, 14
6 Michael Jackson

It starts on the right of the second cave.

FA: Qiu Jiang, 2012

5.11b Sport 35m, 16
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

2nd

The following four routes are all accessible through the next trail and share the same small belay ledge.

8 Jumping Ship

First route that traverses left. A real treat at the given grade! One of the best in Yangshuo

FA: Qiu Jiang, 2012

5.11a Sport 27m, 12
9 Too Many Hamburgers

NO FALL ZONE. Dirty and sharp Chimney. Not worth it. Not recommended.

FA: Simon Dilks & Dave Gliddon, 2005

5.8 Sport 16m, 5
10 Everything Guy Returns

#sandbagged Hard boulder problem followed by distant bolting and a no fall zone. The anchor is high up in the weakness after the chimney.

FA: Simon Dilks & Dave Giddon, 2005

5.10d Sport 28m, 9
11 Up in Smoke

Last route on the right side

FA: Cheng Fu & Qiu Jiang, 2012

5.11d Sport 33m, 14

3rd

Main Ledge and chunk of wall with the most easy to find routes.

13 Whipped Cream

First route on the left

FA: Jack & GuGu, 2012

5.11b Sport 28m, 12
14 Long Long Life

FA: Adam GoHard & Jack, 2012

5.10c Sport 28m, 14
15 Rolled Oats and Yogurt

FA: Jack, 2012

5.10d Sport 29m, 13
16 Pancake Flake

Excellent and sustained It climbs the beautiful flake that starts on top of the pillar. One of the best routes on the wall

FA: Jack & Adam GoHard, 2012

5.11a Sport 31m, 14
17 Slowly to #1

Excellent and sustained.

FA: Adam GoHard & Jack, 2012

5.10c Sport 29m, 10
18 Cat Meat and Tough Guy

Last route on this side of the wall. It shares the start with Beating Around the Bush and splits left climbing through the overhang

FA: Jack, 2012

5.10d Sport 28m, 12
19 No More Beer

Accessible from the first anchor of Beating Around the Bush. It climbs straight up

Set: Jack

FA: Adam Gohard, 2012

5.10d Sport 16m, 9
20 Beating Around the Bush

Last route on this side of the wall. P1 shares the start with Cat Meat and Tough Guy and climbs the ramping weakness till the first anchor. P2 traverses right and then up a short corner. P3 and P4 continue up the wide layback crack and should be linked together. Abseil the route.

FA: Jonathon Griffith & Jack, 2012

5.9 Sport 54m, 4, 8

1.5.2. Treasure Cave 19 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 24.741373, 110.467972

description

From the parking lot follow the obvious trail. You’ll soon see a muddy water pound on your left. At this point take a right and go through the fields. A staircase path will soon be visible, Taking you through the staircase wall, and all the way to the two caves

approach

(Coming from West Street) Head over to the main intersection. The Vienna International Hotel should be on your left, and on the upper right a large ball thing that is quite colourful.

Go straight at the intersection. Keep driving past butterfly cave, and Worker's Bridge. This can be easily identified by the number of tourists taking pictures. Keep going, then turn right onto Chuan Yan Road.

Cross the flat bridge (can flood easily during monsoon season be careful) and eventually you will see a yellow arch. Turn left of the arch. Keep following the road until you can actually make a left turn, as some roads are driveways.

You will emerge into a concrete road with trees arching above you. Stay on this road, which will turn into gravel then concrete again. There is a gravel road that will emerge on the left, ignore this. The road will soon fork into a "Y", turn left here and follow the road down.

As you continue on this road you will come across a small building with a sign saying something similar to serenity retreat. Turn right here and keep following the road, then dirt road. Walking approach is easily identified from here.

The first large cave you enter, easily visible from far below. Yangshuo Base Camp operate a zip-line here and in fact manage the whole area, giving free access to climbers. Please be respectful.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

南壁 South Wall

2 Surprise Attack

Steep corner with a tougher finish.

Set: andrew

FA: Valentine Laubriet, 2015

5.11c Sport 17m, 8
3 Fondled in Guilin

Extension to Surprise Attack. Follow a long tough tufa system, passed an easy slab, for quite a "trad" finish.

Set: andrew

FA: Valentine Laubriet, 2015

5.12c Sport 36m, 19
4 锁链 Ball and Chain

FA: Morgan Heater, 2003

5.12a Sport 28m, 11
5 Little Three

Warning Fixed Gear: Do not climb it! Rusty and unsafe hardware 不要爬这条线, 挂片太旧的,一点都不安全!

FA: Morgan Heater, 2003

5.11d Sport 19m, 6
6 Arch Enemy

FA: Morgan Heater, 2003

5.11a Sport 18m, 7
7 园丁 Lawnmower Man

This climb is located immediately left from “Where’s My Tyrolean”. Nice face climbing leads to steep climbing through stalactites.

FA: Morgan Heater, 2003

5.11a Sport 25m, 12
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Where's My Tyrolean?

Sharp holds lead to a nice stalactite.

Up 'Windswept' to large ledge, traverse left, then up tufa/stalactite past fixed sling to anchor.

FA: Geordie Yip, Ron Yue & Keith Noyes, 2002

5.9 Sport 20m, 8
9 Windswept

Super sharp holds leads to slopers, then steep climbing, then up through a horrible stalactite to the anchor. Excellent climb.

FA: Andrew Hedesh, Michelle McRory & Ian Farquhar, 2010

5.11a Sport 25m, 12
10 斗牛士 Adventure Race Groupies

Nice, easier face climb.

FA: Geordie Yip, Ron Yue & Keith Noyes, 2002

5.9 Sport 25m, 8

北壁 North Wall

12 Tunnel Vision 隔岸观火

FA: Morgan Heater & Neil Preston, 2002

5.11c Sport 25m, 8
13 Escape the Tourists 躲避游客

FA: Morgan Heater, YingRan & Keith Noyes, 2002

5.10c Sport 27m, 8
14 赛安 Seyon

Warning Rock: Wet

Awesome climb. Overhung on big holds. Take care of your rope position near some sharp edges.

Requires at least 3 alpine draws. 需要至少3个加长快挂。

Don't clip the two bolts close together on the right hand wall, these are for SRT usage and not for this climb. 右侧墙壁上有两个挂片隔得很近可以忽略,是SRT用的。

FA: Keith Noyes, Morgan & Yingren, 2002

5.10b Sport 27m, 10
15 Fire Hydrant

Immediatly right of Sai Yan. Varied climbing of consistent difficulty. Given 6a+ in 2011 guidebook, but likely several grades harder. Unusual marbled rounded holds up high.

FA: Simon Lu, 2002

5.11a Sport 25m, 9
16 Relief

FA: Simon Lü, 2002

5.11d Sport 23m, 8
17 Tunnel Jam Pitch 1

FA: Keith Noyes & YingRan

5.10d Sport 28m
18 Tunnel Jam Pitch 2

FA: Morgan Heater

5.11c Sport 15m
19 Losing Face

Technical off vertical wall climbing.

FA: Keith Noyes, Morgan & Yingren, 2002

5.10b Sport 18m, 5
20 Slasher

FA: Geordie Yip, Ron Yue & Keith Noyes

5.11a Sport 22m, 11
21 Knives in the Attic

FA: Geordie Yip, Ron Yue & Keith Noyes

5.11a Sport 22m, 8

1.5.3. Brother's Cave 15 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 24.741596, 110.468348

description

From the parking lot follow the obvious trail. You’ll soon see a muddy water pound on your left. At this point take a right and go through the fields. A staircase path will soon be visible, Taking you through the staircase wall, and all the way to the two caves

approach

Continue through Treasure's Cave and down and right for 20m along an obvious trail.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

南壁 South Wall

2 Nut Good

Warning Fixed Gear: After clipping the first QuickDraw you step on a ledge with loosen rocks. I cleaned a good part of it but still, pay attention !

6b+

FA: CMDI Ozark & Gugu, 2013

5.10d Sport 18m, 2, 8
3 90 degrees

Pumpy start. 6b+

FA: Gugu & CMDI Ozark

5.10d Sport 15m, 6
4 Crispy Crimpy

7a

FA: CMDI Ozark & Gugu, 2013

5.11d Sport 18m, 8
5 Outside Side

Warning Fixed Gear: 顶链和倒数第二个挂片锈蚀严重

7a+

FA: CMDI Ozark & Jack, 2013

5.12a Sport 20m, 8
6 Life Buoy

FA: CMDI Ozark & Qiu Jiang, 2013

5.12b Sport 16m, 7
7 Right Corner

7a

FA: CMDI Ozark & Qiu Jiang, 2013

5.11c Sport 18m, 7
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

北壁 North Wall

9 Trou Sec en Millieu Humide

Warning Fixed Gear: 挂片生锈

Climbs through the tufa system. 6c+

FA: CMDI Ozark & Jack, 2013

5.11c Sport 25m, 9
10 DJ

6c

FA: CMDI Ozark & Jack, 2013

5.11b Sport 23m, 8
11 Mini Pee

FA: CMDI Ozark & Xiao P, 2013

5.10d Sport 15m, 5
12 Ten Bee

6b+

FA: CMDI Ozark & Keng Zi, 2013

5.11a Sport 15m, 6
13 Hanging in China

Warning Fixed Gear: 快挂生锈

7c

Face climbing to a tufa system then out and traversing across the roof to the cave before a "bouldery" finish

FA: Daniel Du Lac & CMDI Ozark

5.12c Sport 25m, 13
14 Air Force One

Warning Fixed Gear: 挂片腐蚀和松动

FA: Daniel Du Lac & CMDI Ozark, 2013

5.12b Sport 25m, 11
15 Hole Vision

FA: Naoya & CMDI Ozark, 2013

5.10c Sport 15m, 6
16 Last Breath

FA: GuGu & CMDI Ozark, 2013

5.11d Sport 22m, 10
17 Corner Bug Zoom

This route is outside the cave, on the right side looking in..

FA: Jack & CMDI Ozark, 2013

5.10b Sport 20m, 11

1.6. 竹林岩 Bamboo Grove 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 24.737404, 110.477132

summary

Not the best scene for climbing. Building construction nearby has interrupted the belay area.

description

The Bamboo Groove incorporates two separate cliffs, the 'North Buttress' and the 'Main Wall'. Some hangers may be missing and the anchor material will be old. will be dirty but the climbing is interesting... it will be adventure climbing.

1.6.1. Main Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

description

Update November 2011: Easy access but the routes still need a lot more traffic to clean up.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pickpocket 5.9 Sport 25m
2 Red River 5.8 Sport
3 A Question of Trust

Very dirty with some loose blocks.

5.9 Sport 22m
4 The Meteor 5.11- Trad

1.6.2. North Buttress 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport climbing and Top roping

description

Update November 2011: The base of this cliff is very overgrown and inaccessible. Some bolts and anchors are missing.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Crippled Swallow 5.7 Sport
2 Slave Labour 5.9 Sport
3 Top-Rope Problem 5.8 Top rope

1.7. 黑洞 Black Cave 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 24.737484, 110.479784

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 泡沫 Foam

FA: 大魏, 2013

5.10b Sport 15m
2 肚脐 Belly Button

FA: Seth bently, 2013

5.11c Sport 15m
3 阿姐撸 A Jie Lu

FA: Liu Xiao, 2013

5.10c Sport 20m

1.8. 小马岩 Horse Crag 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 24.739750, 110.468102

description

This crag is located on the Karst just left of square mountain. It shares the same parking spot

access issues

Horse crag was developed for the Yangshuo Base Camp, so it is basically on "private" ground. You are welcome to climb here as long as there aren't customers in the area.

approach

From the parking lot follow the obvious trail. You’ll soon see a muddy water pound on your left. Go over it and reach the wall

ethic

this crag's info was purposely left out of the guide books becasue it is supposed to be used as a guide crag. be nice.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1 5.9 Sport 18m
2 2 5.8 Sport 15m, 6
3 3 5.9 Sport 15m
4 4 5.9 Sport
5 5 5.10a Sport 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 6 5.9 Sport
7 7 5.10b Sport
8 8 5.10c Sport
9 9 5.10d Sport
10 10 5.5 Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 11 5.5 Sport
12 12 5.7 Sport
13 13 5.5 Sport 8m, 3
14 14 5.5 Sport 8m, 3

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
5.5 10 Sport 1.8. 小马岩 Horse Crag
11 Sport 1.8. 小马岩 Horse Crag
13 Sport 8m, 3 1.8. 小马岩 Horse Crag
14 Sport 8m, 3 1.8. 小马岩 Horse Crag
5.7 Crippled Swallow Sport 1.6.2. North Buttress
12 Sport 1.8. 小马岩 Horse Crag
5.8 Lounging Lizards Sport 24m, 8 1.3. 大榕树 Banyan Tree
Smokin' Sport 20m, 8 1.4.3. East Wall
Too Many Hamburgers Sport 16m, 5 1.5.1. Staircase Wall
Red River Sport 1.6.1. Main Wall
Top-Rope Problem Top rope 1.6.2. North Buttress
2 Sport 15m, 6 1.8. 小马岩 Horse Crag
5.9 Scream Sport 20m, 9 1.1. 遇龙河边 Dragon River Crag
Wrong Turn Sport 20m, 7 1.1. 遇龙河边 Dragon River Crag
Jamming for Dummies Sport 18m, 8 1.4.1. Western Tower
Part Retrobolt of BTM Sport 18m, 9 1.4.1. Western Tower
Da Pi Gu 大屁股 Sport 20m, 7 1.4.3. East Wall
Beating Around the Bush Sport 54m, 4, 8 1.5.1. Staircase Wall
Pheonix II Sport 35m, 16 1.5.1. Staircase Wall
Where's My Tyrolean? Sport 20m, 8 1.5.2. Treasure Cave
斗牛士 Adventure Race Groupies Sport 25m, 8 1.5.2. Treasure Cave
A Question of Trust Sport 22m 1.6.1. Main Wall
Pickpocket Sport 25m 1.6.1. Main Wall
Slave Labour Sport 1.6.2. North Buttress
1 Sport 18m 1.8. 小马岩 Horse Crag
3 Sport 15m 1.8. 小马岩 Horse Crag
4 Sport 1.8. 小马岩 Horse Crag
6 Sport 1.8. 小马岩 Horse Crag
5.10a Beautiful Day Sport 25m, 9 1.3. 大榕树 Banyan Tree
Heavy Rocks Sport 25m, 9 1.3. 大榕树 Banyan Tree
Penthouse Platforms Sport 53m, 3, 19 1.4.1. Western Tower
Flash Trad 55m, 2 1.4.2. South Face
Scottish VS Trad 55m, 2 1.4.2. South Face
Seven Up Eight Down Sport 35m, 16 1.5.1. Staircase Wall
5 Sport 18m 1.8. 小马岩 Horse Crag
5.10b Saw Sport 25m, 10 1.1. 遇龙河边 Dragon River Crag
Playboy Sport 25m, 9 1.2. 金水岸 Golden River Side
Swindler Sport 20m, 8 1.2. 金水岸 Golden River Side
Happy Hour Sport 20m, 10 1.3. 大榕树 Banyan Tree
Nice Route Sport 27m, 13 1.3. 大榕树 Banyan Tree
Never Surrender Sport 35m, 15 1.5.1. Staircase Wall
Losing Face Sport 18m, 5 1.5.2. Treasure Cave
赛安 Seyon Sport 27m, 10 1.5.2. Treasure Cave
Corner Bug Zoom Sport 20m, 11 1.5.3. Brother's Cave
泡沫 Foam Sport 15m 1.7. 黑洞 Black Cave
7 Sport 1.8. 小马岩 Horse Crag
5.10c Short Holiday Sport 15m, 3 1.4.3. East Wall
Xin Jiang Black Sport 45m, 2 1.4.3. East Wall
Long Long Life Sport 28m, 14 1.5.1. Staircase Wall
Slowly to #1 Sport 29m, 10 1.5.1. Staircase Wall
Escape the Tourists 躲避游客 Sport 27m, 8 1.5.2. Treasure Cave
Hole Vision Sport 15m, 6 1.5.3. Brother's Cave
阿姐撸 A Jie Lu Sport 20m 1.7. 黑洞 Black Cave
8 Sport 1.8. 小马岩 Horse Crag
5.10d Blood Sport 20m, 8 1.4.3. East Wall
Indulgence Sport 25m, 11 1.4.3. East Wall
Cat Meat and Tough Guy Sport 28m, 12 1.5.1. Staircase Wall
Everything Guy Returns Sport 28m, 9 1.5.1. Staircase Wall
No More Beer Sport 16m, 9 1.5.1. Staircase Wall
Rolled Oats and Yogurt Sport 29m, 13 1.5.1. Staircase Wall
Tunnel Jam Pitch 1 Sport 28m 1.5.2. Treasure Cave
90 degrees Sport 15m, 6 1.5.3. Brother's Cave
Mini Pee Sport 15m, 5 1.5.3. Brother's Cave
Nut Good Sport 18m, 2, 8 1.5.3. Brother's Cave
9 Sport 1.8. 小马岩 Horse Crag
5.11- The Meteor Trad 1.6.1. Main Wall
5.11a Bicycle Tricycle Man Trad 55m, 3 1.4.1. Western Tower
Beautiful Shadow Sport 25m, 7 1.4.2. South Face
Blood Extension Sport 25m, 13 1.4.3. East Wall
Hard On, Easy Off Sport 23m 1.4.3. East Wall
Ant Farm Sport 33m, 14 1.5.1. Staircase Wall
Jumping Ship Sport 27m, 12 1.5.1. Staircase Wall
Pancake Flake Sport 31m, 14 1.5.1. Staircase Wall
Arch Enemy Sport 18m, 7 1.5.2. Treasure Cave
Fire Hydrant Sport 25m, 9 1.5.2. Treasure Cave
Knives in the Attic Sport 22m, 8 1.5.2. Treasure Cave
Slasher Sport 22m, 11 1.5.2. Treasure Cave
Windswept Sport 25m, 12 1.5.2. Treasure Cave
园丁 Lawnmower Man Sport 25m, 12 1.5.2. Treasure Cave
Ten Bee Sport 15m, 6 1.5.3. Brother's Cave
5.11b Seven Months Sport 18m, 9 1.2. 金水岸 Golden River Side
False Reality Extension Sport 38m, 2, 13 1.3. 大榕树 Banyan Tree
Open Team Sport 12m, 6 1.3. 大榕树 Banyan Tree
Xiao ji Sport 25m, 10 1.3. 大榕树 Banyan Tree
Big Plane P1 Sport 25m 1.4.3. East Wall
Summer School Sport 17m, 7 1.4.3. East Wall
Three point Five Sport 1.4.3. East Wall
Michael Jackson Sport 35m, 16 1.5.1. Staircase Wall
Whipped Cream Sport 28m, 12 1.5.1. Staircase Wall
DJ Sport 23m, 8 1.5.3. Brother's Cave
5.11c Bless You In The Face 当面祝福 Sport 80m, 4 1.2. 金水岸 Golden River Side
False Reality Sport 20m, 7 1.3. 大榕树 Banyan Tree
Treehugger Sport 25m, 9 1.3. 大榕树 Banyan Tree
Da Feiji P2 - Air Miles Extension Sport 20m 1.4.3. East Wall
Xiao Feiji Sport 25m, 2, 14 1.4.3. East Wall
Surprise Attack Sport 17m, 8 1.5.2. Treasure Cave
Tunnel Jam Pitch 2 Sport 15m 1.5.2. Treasure Cave
Tunnel Vision 隔岸观火 Sport 25m, 8 1.5.2. Treasure Cave
Right Corner Sport 18m, 7 1.5.3. Brother's Cave
Trou Sec en Millieu Humide Sport 25m, 9 1.5.3. Brother's Cave
肚脐 Belly Button Sport 15m 1.7. 黑洞 Black Cave
5.11d Golden River Side Sport 40m, 19 1.2. 金水岸 Golden River Side
New Day Sport 25m, 9 1.3. 大榕树 Banyan Tree
Up in Smoke Sport 33m, 14 1.5.1. Staircase Wall
Little Three Sport 19m, 6 1.5.2. Treasure Cave
Relief Sport 23m, 8 1.5.2. Treasure Cave
Crispy Crimpy Sport 18m, 8 1.5.3. Brother's Cave
Last Breath Sport 22m, 10 1.5.3. Brother's Cave
5.11+ Da Feiji (pt3)-Frequent Flyer Finish Sport 1.4.3. East Wall
5.12a Old Fishermen Sport 45m, 24 1.1. 遇龙河边 Dragon River Crag
Five Years Sport 18m, 10 1.2. 金水岸 Golden River Side
Scoundrel / Bad Egg 坏蛋 Sport 30m, 11 1.2. 金水岸 Golden River Side
White Men Can't Jump 白人不会跳 Sport 20m, 8 1.2. 金水岸 Golden River Side
Leuhng Chong/secret food store Sport 15m 1.3. 大榕树 Banyan Tree
Shattered Ego Sport 25m, 11 1.3. 大榕树 Banyan Tree
锁链 Ball and Chain Sport 28m, 11 1.5.2. Treasure Cave
Outside Side Sport 20m, 8 1.5.3. Brother's Cave
5.12b Monkey Fur 猴毛 Sport 25m, 11 1.3. 大榕树 Banyan Tree
Redneck Lunch Sport 25m, 13 1.3. 大榕树 Banyan Tree
Anti Polar Sport 11 1.4.3. East Wall
Air Force One Sport 25m, 11 1.5.3. Brother's Cave
Life Buoy Sport 16m, 7 1.5.3. Brother's Cave
5.12c Two Eggs Sport 30m, 10 1.2. 金水岸 Golden River Side
Young Bees 追蜂少年 Sport 22m, 12 1.2. 金水岸 Golden River Side
Big mushrooom Sport 20m, 9 1.3. 大榕树 Banyan Tree
Flying Poop Sport 30m, 12 1.4.3. East Wall
Fondled in Guilin Sport 36m, 19 1.5.2. Treasure Cave
Hanging in China Sport 25m, 13 1.5.3. Brother's Cave
5.12d Dragon Encounters Sport 45m, 24 1.1. 遇龙河边 Dragon River Crag
Obese Monkey SportProject 20m, 10 1.2. 金水岸 Golden River Side
Searching Dragon 寻龙 Sport 70m, 3 1.2. 金水岸 Golden River Side
La Liao Sport 30m, 11 1.3. 大榕树 Banyan Tree
No Goats, No Glory / Big Plane Alternate Start Sport 20m, 6 1.4.3. East Wall
5.13c Pietasters Sport 22m, 7 1.3. 大榕树 Banyan Tree
5.13d Nine Deep, One Shallow 难度表 Sport 25m, 11 1.3. 大榕树 Banyan Tree
5.14a Twelve Years Sport 17m, 11 1.3. 大榕树 Banyan Tree
? Happy Dick 快乐鸡鸡 SportProject 40m, 18 1.2. 金水岸 Golden River Side
No Future 没有未来 SportProject 30m, 9 1.2. 金水岸 Golden River Side
Yeman 亚芒 SportProject 25m 1.2. 金水岸 Golden River Side
Open Project Sport 1.3. 大榕树 Banyan Tree
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