A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Singing AntonioAnuk Constantine Dritsas Bing Andrew Samuelson81 Andrew Clark peta barrett Mark Ashmore o_g
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Table of contents
- 1.
大榕树-同门山地区 JinBao Confluence / 3
140 in Area
- 1.1. 遇龙河边 Dragon River Crag / 3.1 5 in Crag
- 1.2. 金水岸 Golden River Side / 3.2 / Jin Shui An 15 in Crag
- 1.3. 大榕树 Banyan Tree / 3.3 21 in Crag
-
1.4.
同门山 Twin Gates / 3.4 24 in Crag
- 1.4.1. Western Tower 4 in Cliff
- 1.4.2. South Face 3 in Sector
- 1.4.3. East Wall 17 in Sector
-
1.5.
四方山 Square Mountain / 3.5 51 in Crag
- 1.5.1. Staircase Wall / 石阶墙 17 in Sector
- 1.5.2. Treasure Cave / 穿岩藏球 19 in Sector
- 1.5.3. Brother's Cave / 好汉洞 15 in Sector
-
1.6.
竹林岩 Bamboo Grove 7 in Crag
- 1.6.1. Main Wall 4 in Sector
- 1.6.2. North Buttress 3 in Sector
- 1.7. 黑洞 Black Cave 3 in Crag
- 1.8. 小马岩 Horse Crag 14 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. 大榕树-同门山地区 JinBao Confluence 140 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 24.742382, 110.472928
access issues
Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.
1.1. 遇龙河边 Dragon River Crag 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 24.742741, 110.480585
description
A hotel opened in the area, so as of November 2023, the crag is inaccessible
Dragon River Crag is a small crag located around 20 meters from the Yu Long river. The crag contains only a few routes, however the upper hard pitches are on excellent rock. The crag is in the sun until late afternoon.
access issues
There are 2 main routes at this crag: Old Fisherman and Dragon Encounters. These two routes both have mid-point anchors and denoted easy first pitch climbs. All four of these routes share the same four bolt start.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Saw
This pitch breaks away from SCREAM after a few bolts then finishes at a mid-belay. A second belay located further up the route is for rapping off the upper pitch. FA: Qiu Jiang & ADong, 2009 | 5.10b | 25m, 10 | |||
2 |
★★★ Old Fishermen
This is the extension to SAW and finishes at the top anchor. The mid-belay is only for descent due to the length of this pitch. FA: Qiu Jiang & ADong, 2009 | 5.12a | 45m, 24 | |||
3 |
Scream
This pitch finishes at the 1st anchor. FA: Qiu Jiang & ADong, 2009 | 5.9 | 20m, 9 | |||
4 |
★★★ Dragon Encounters
This pitch fit the extension to SCREAM and finishes at the top anchor without stopping at the midpoint belay station. The mid-belay is for descent due to the length of this pitch. FA: Qiu Jiang & ADong, 2009 | 5.12d | 45m, 24 | |||
5 |
Wrong Turn
This route starts to the right of the others but finishes at the same anchor as SCREAM. FA: Xi Tang, 2008 | 5.9 | 20m, 7 |
1.2. 金水岸 Golden River Side 15 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 24.750140, 110.463631
- 寻岩中国路书,密码:ebds
description
approach
Well into the tourist park, you'll encounter a bridge with plenty of motorbike traffic, this is Workers bridge or AKA GongNong Qiao. jsut before this bridge turn right and continue for 3.5km until you find a hotel with a small blue windmill on the roof. The trail begins from the carpark on the right side of the hotel. It will be grown over but was cut out thoroughly so you should be able to follow it.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Golden River Side / 金水岸
FA: Toni Arbones, 2012 | 5.11d | 40m, 19 | |||
2 |
Five Years / 5年
FA: Toni Arbones, 2012 | 5.12a | 18m, 10 | |||
3 |
Seven Months / 7个月
FA: Toni Arbones, 2012 | 5.11b | 18m, 9 | |||
4 |
Swindler / 骗子
FA: ABond, 2012 | 5.10b | 20m, 8 | |||
5 |
★ Playboy / 花花公子
FA: ABond, 2012 | 5.10b | 25m, 9 | |||
6 |
Bless You In The Face 当面祝福
Four pitch route starting from the ground, joins several others at a belay station then clibs diagonally up and right for P2. continues straight up for P3 and P4. the higher you go, the more difficult it becomes. Set: Duncan Brown | 5.11c | 80m, 4 | |||
7 |
Two Eggs / 两个蛋
FA: San Wen Yu Set: Toni Arbones, 2012 | 5.12c | 30m, 10 | |||
8 |
Scoundrel / Bad Egg 坏蛋 / Scoundrel
FA: ola przybysz | 5.12a | 30m, 11 | |||
9 |
Happy Dick 快乐鸡鸡
open project Set: Toni Arbones | 40m, 18 | ||||
10 |
No Future 没有未来
open project - finishes at the mid point anchor of Happy Dick. Set: Toni Arbones | 30m, 9 | ||||
11 |
Obese Monkey / 胖猴子
Open Project Set: Duncan Brown | 5.12d | 20m, 10 | |||
12 |
White Men Can't Jump 白人不会跳
Set: Duncan Brown FA: Connor Dickinson | 5.12a | 20m, 8 | |||
13 |
Young Bees 追蜂少年
FA: Zhang Yong | 5.12c | 22m, 12 | |||
14 |
Searching Dragon 寻龙
Pitch one 5.11C Pitch two 5.12D Pitch three 5.12B FA: Qiu Jiang | 5.12d | 70m, 3 | |||
15 |
Yeman 亚芒
Open project Set: Qiu Jiang | 25m |
1.3. 大榕树 Banyan Tree 21 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 24.735730, 110.477897
description
The Banyan Tree Crag is pleasant and located across the river from the touristy and real Banyan Tree Scenic Area. The climbing is on two sides of a large buttress.
approach
From the main road, cross the river by way of a low weir and continue into the village. take a left and go around the karst tower in front of you. after 150m look for a few houses on the left and a steep bamboo covered hill on the right.... behind the bamboo is the the main face.
history
there were routes on the back a long time ago, but since then a wall has been built and disrupted the routes... quite dangerous and best to stay away. those routes are not listed here.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Heavy Rocks
FA: Michal Duda | 5.10a | 25m, 9 | |||||
2 |
★★★ Nice Route
FA: Ola & ola przybysz | 5.10b | 27m, 13 | |||||
3 |
★★ Redneck Lunch
FA: Luke Mc Tighe | 5.12b | 25m, 13 | |||||
4 |
★ Treehugger
FA: Jodi Mohrhardt | 5.11c | 25m, 9 | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
5 |
★ Xiao ji / 小鸡 / Chicks
Easy start, easy finish. Crux frustrates people and have been called sandbag. upgraded from 11a, but maybe not...its actually not difficult, just balance and timing put together. FA: Qiu Jiang Set: Tyson Wallace, 2011 | 5.11b | 25m, 10 | |||||
6 |
★★ New Day
sustained crux...good, but difficulty backs off too quickly FA: Qiu Jiang, 2009 | 5.11d | 25m, 9 | |||||
7 |
★★ False Reality
This is the route that spits many people off. originally graded 12b. low percentage and committing with high feet. | 5.11c | 20m, 7 | |||||
8 |
★ False Reality Extension
Pumpy but fun through an intimidating overhang. anchor material is marginal, but safe? I used them in 2018. | 5.11b | 38m, 2, 13 | |||||
9 |
★★ Big mushrooom
first 2 bolts same as 5.11b. moves right past a mushroom tufa. FA: LiuDeChao & Qiu Jiang | 5.12c | 20m, 9 | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
10 |
★★★ La Liao
Warning, fourth bolt on this routes looks in really poor condition. FA: Oscar Gimenez, 2009 | 5.12d | 30m, 11 | |||||
11 |
★★★ Nine Deep, One Shallow 难度表
finger testing... one long draw at the crux helps immensely. FA: Gerome Pouvreau, 2005 | 5.13d | 25m, 11 | |||||
12 |
★★★ Monkey Fur 猴毛 / Todd Skinner Line
Todd Skinners route. An Endurance Party. Old bolts weren't removed when it was rebolted so clip the shiny new hangars instead of the rusty ones. 阳朔的第二条线路,也是阳朔定级的难度基准 Set: Sam Lightner Jr & Todd Skinner FA: Todd Skinner, 1990 | 5.12b | 25m, 11 | |||||
13 |
★★ Shattered Ego
To the right of the Todd skinner route. a hold broke so it has lost quality. FA: Oscar Gimenez, 2009 | 5.12a | 25m, 11 | |||||
14 |
Twelve Years / The mirror/Da geng
othewise known as the The Mirror becasue it is as featureless as one. Set: 2002 FA: Wang Qinghua, 2014 | 5.14a | 17m, 11 | |||||
15 |
★★ Open Team / 海选
maybe its a crack? smear the feet and you'll be happy. try hard or go home. FA: Jenny Zhu & Emanuelle Lacoste, 2005 | 5.11b | 12m, 6 | |||||
16 |
Open Project
Open Project. This is the extension of Open Team / 海选. Likely 5.14b/c. Due to bolt placement constraints some long slings are need to extend draws. The climb has 3 cruxes and no hands free rests. It finishes above the large overhang. Proposed name: A bead on the necklace of time. Set: Eben Farnworth, Oct 2021 | |||||||
17 |
★ Pietasters
shares start with "Open team". climbs all the way to the rope anchor. if you stop short... grade is reduced to 12d. FA: Steve McClure, 2001 | 5.13c | 22m, 7 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
朝阳墙 Morning Glory快到达主墙时右转,沿小径走30米,即可到达。(这里有村民养殖蜜蜂,请不要触碰蜂箱。) Once you see the main wall, proceed right through a narrow path for around 30 meters. You’ll get to the Morning glory wall. BE CAREFUL the local villagers might be breeding honey bees 🐝 🐝 | ||||||||
19 |
★★ Lounging Lizards
Very enjoyable climb for the grade. The hanger is missing on the last bolt (10/2019) but the climbing to the anchor is easy. FA: Morgan Heater | 5.8 | 24m, 8 | |||||
20 |
★★ Beautiful Day
Nice climbing on pockets. FA: Paul Collis & Bob Keaty, 2005 | 5.10a | 25m, 9 | |||||
21 |
★★ Happy Hour
Nice climb with a crux end. FA: Paul Collis & Bob Keaty, 2005 | 5.10b | 20m, 10 | |||||
东北面 North East Face | ||||||||
23 |
★★ Leuhng Chong/secret food store
This route is hidden on the backside of the crag. the only route still climbable near the wall. there isnt an anchor. FA: Paul Qiu, 2003 | 5.12a | 15m |
1.4. 同门山 Twin Gates 24 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 24.742490, 110.470583
description
Twin Gate incorporates Twin Gate Mountain, Twin Gate Mountain South Face and Twin Gate Mountain Western Tower. Twin Gate Mountain is the main climbing area offering excellent routes in a beautiful location amongst rice fields. The main crag is shaded in the afternoon and the river located nearby is a nice place to swim during the warmer months.
approach
1.4.1. Western Tower 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 24.742533, 110.470533
description
100m left of the end of the main cliff is a separate karst tower.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Penthouse Platforms / 顶楼
This route tops out with fantastic (almost 360 degree views) of the surrounding Karsts. FA: Dave Giddon, Simon Wilson & Eman Lacoste, 2005 | 5.10a | 53m, 3, 19 | |||
2 |
Bicycle Tricycle Man
Pitch one 5.10B Pitch two 5.8 Pitch three 5.11A 55m rap to descend. FA: Nick Williams & Lindsay Griffin | 5.11a | 55m, 3 | |||
3 |
Part Retrobolt of BTM
Just left of bicycle train. FA: Dave Gliddon FA: Dave Gliddon | 5.9 | 18m, 9 | |||
4 |
★ Jamming for Dummies
FA: Dave Gliddon, Simon Dilks & Jack, 2006 | 5.9 | 18m, 8 |
1.4.2. South Face 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 24.742640, 110.470849
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Flash
Starts around left from Beautiful Shadow, past the hole back into the the main cave. FA: Paul Collis & Jeanette Holmes-Thomson, 2002 | 5.10a | 55m, 2 | |||
2 |
Scottish VS / Chinese Very Severe / 中国人很严肃
Starts around left of Beautiful Shadow. Up the right wall of the hole through to the main cave. FA: Eben Farnworth & Ali Rose, 2008 | 5.10a | 55m, 2 | |||
3 |
★★ Beautiful Shadow / 一个昆明人 / Some Guy From Kunming
Starts left of the two caves with tables. A techy crux low leads to some powerful moves higher up. FA: Morgan Heater & Pablo | 5.11a | 25m, 7 |
1.4.3. East Wall 17 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 24.742727, 110.471067
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Flying Poop / Piao Shi / 飘屎
split left off second bolt of blood into a balancy and crumbly dihedral, fingery moves up ...interesting rock. FA: Andrew Hedesh, 2012 | 5.12c | 30m, 12 | |||
2 |
★★ Blood / 血滴子
Left line on the pillar between the two caves with tables. The bulging crack of the second pitch is easily visible above the anchor. FA: Wang Er & Chong ZI | 5.10d | 20m, 8 | |||
3 |
★★ Blood Extension / 血滴子延长线
FA: Paul Collis | 5.11a | 25m, 13 | |||
4 |
★★ Summer School / 七月的学校 / Qi Yue De Xue Xiao
FA: A Niu & Zhang Yong | 5.11b | 17m, 7 | |||
5 |
★★★ Xiao Feiji / 小飞机 / Ta Ma De 他妈的
FA: Ken McMahon, Karen McMahon, Paul Collis & Xi Tang | 5.11c | 25m, 2, 14 | |||
6 |
★★★ Anti Polar / Antipoides
From the back of the cave to lower off midway to the front. FA: Felipe Borderas, Duran & SGarlic Set: 2004 | 5.12b | 11 | |||
7 |
No Goats, No Glory / Big Plane Alternate Start / Dyno-mite
Warning Fixed Gear: third bolt missing Right wall of the right cave, through the tufa/stalactites and then up to join Big Plane. FA: Felipe Borderas, D Duran, SGarlic & DeS Jenkins Set: 2004 | 5.12d | 20m, 6 | |||
8 |
★★★ Big Plane P1 / Da Feiji / 大飞机
There is also one anchor before the overhang. FA: Ken McMahon & Karen MacMahon, 1998 | 5.11b | 25m | |||
9 |
★★ Da Feiji P2 - Air Miles Extension
FA: Xi Tang & Paul Collis, 2003 | 5.11c | 20m | |||
10 |
★★ Da Feiji (pt3)-Frequent Flyer Finish
FA: xi tang & Paul Collis | 5.11+ | ||||
11 |
★★ Da Pi Gu 大屁股 / Alligator Head 鳄鱼头
FA: Ken McMahon & Karen McMahon | 5.9 | 20m, 7 | |||
12 |
★★ Three point Five / 三点五
Technical climbing to the right of DPG. | 5.11b | ||||
13 |
★★ Xin Jiang Black / 新疆黑
1st Pitch: 5.10c, 10 bolts 2nd Pitch: 5.10b FA: Ken, Karen McMahon, XiTang & Paul Collis | 5.10c | 45m, 2 | |||
14 |
★★ Hard On, Easy Off
From belay of Xin Jiang Black head up and right instead of up and left. FA: Josh Latila & Andrew Hedesh, 2010 | 5.11a | 23m | |||
15 |
★ Smokin'
Cruxy start geting onto the wall, then traversing right into the corner. Technical climbing on good rock. FA: Ken & Karen McMahon, 1998 | 5.8 | 20m, 8 | |||
16 |
★★★ Indulgence / 纵容
FA: Jack & Xiao Hao | 5.10d | 25m, 11 | |||
17 |
★ Short Holiday / 短暂假期 / Dyun Jaam Ga Keih
Bottom half is run out. A few wires might help. FA: Qiu Jiang, 2003 | 5.10c | 15m, 3 |
1.5. 四方山 Square Mountain 51 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 24.741299, 110.468190
- 百度地图导航 到 喜宁阁客栈 附近 From the parking lot follow the obvious trail. You’ll soon see a muddy water pound on your left. At this point take a right and go through the fields. A staircase path will soon be visible, Taking you through the staircase wall, and all the way to the two caves
description
Square Mountain includes a meandering staircase that will take you to and through two very large caves, Treasure Cave and Brother's Cave respectively.
The crag is always in shade and can get very cold and windy during the cooler months. Some of the climbs are dusty and the protection is sometimes dubious. The climbing itself is generally excellent.
access issues
The area is managed by Yangshuo Base Camp, whom operate a zip-line in Treasure Cave. Please be respectful.
approach
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
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1.5.1. Staircase Wall 17 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 24.740965, 110.468232
description
Many of the routes require a 70m rope.
approach
From the parking lot follow the obvious trail. You’ll soon see a muddy water pound on your left. At this point take a right and go through the fields. A staircase path will soon be visible, Taking you to the staircase wall
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1stSeven Up Eight down, Never Surrender, Pheonix II start on the right side of the first cave. Ant Farm and Michael Jackson are located at the second cave | ||||||||
2 |
★ Seven Up Eight Down
Starts at the right side of the first cave. Shares the first bolts with Never surrender and splits left FA: Qiu Jiang, 2012 | 5.10a | 35m, 16 | |||||
3 |
★★ Never Surrender
Starts at the right side of the first cave. Shares the first bolts with Seven Up Eight Down and splits right FA: Qiu Jiang, 2012 | 5.10b | 35m, 15 | |||||
4 |
★★ Pheonix II
Last route accessible from this trail FA: Cheng Fu, 2012 | 5.9 | 35m, 16 | |||||
5 |
★★★ Ant Farm
It starts on the left of the second cave. FA: Jack, 2012 | 5.11a | 33m, 14 | |||||
6 |
★★★ Michael Jackson
It starts on the right of the second cave. FA: Qiu Jiang, 2012 | 5.11b | 35m, 16 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2ndThe following four routes are all accessible through the next trail and share the same small belay ledge. | ||||||||
8 |
★★★ Jumping Ship
First route that traverses left. A real treat at the given grade! One of the best in Yangshuo FA: Qiu Jiang, 2012 | 5.11a | 27m, 12 | |||||
9 |
Too Many Hamburgers
NO FALL ZONE. Dirty and sharp Chimney. Not worth it. Not recommended. FA: Simon Dilks & Dave Gliddon, 2005 | 5.8 | 16m, 5 | |||||
10 |
★★ Everything Guy Returns
#sandbagged Hard boulder problem followed by distant bolting and a no fall zone. The anchor is high up in the weakness after the chimney. FA: Simon Dilks & Dave Giddon, 2005 | 5.10d | 28m, 9 | |||||
11 |
★★ Up in Smoke
Last route on the right side FA: Cheng Fu & Qiu Jiang, 2012 | 5.11d | 33m, 14 | |||||
3rdMain Ledge and chunk of wall with the most easy to find routes. | ||||||||
13 |
★★★ Whipped Cream
First route on the left FA: Jack & GuGu, 2012 | 5.11b | 28m, 12 | |||||
14 |
★★ Long Long Life
FA: Adam GoHard & Jack, 2012 | 5.10c | 28m, 14 | |||||
15 |
★ Rolled Oats and Yogurt
FA: Jack, 2012 | 5.10d | 29m, 13 | |||||
16 |
★★★ Pancake Flake
Excellent and sustained It climbs the beautiful flake that starts on top of the pillar. One of the best routes on the wall FA: Jack & Adam GoHard, 2012 | 5.11a | 31m, 14 | |||||
17 |
★★★ Slowly to #1
Excellent and sustained. FA: Adam GoHard & Jack, 2012 | 5.10c | 29m, 10 | |||||
18 |
★★★ Cat Meat and Tough Guy
Last route on this side of the wall. It shares the start with Beating Around the Bush and splits left climbing through the overhang FA: Jack, 2012 | 5.10d | 28m, 12 | |||||
19 |
★★★ No More Beer
Accessible from the first anchor of Beating Around the Bush. It climbs straight up Set: Jack FA: Adam Gohard, 2012 | 5.10d | 16m, 9 | |||||
20 |
Beating Around the Bush
Last route on this side of the wall. P1 shares the start with Cat Meat and Tough Guy and climbs the ramping weakness till the first anchor. P2 traverses right and then up a short corner. P3 and P4 continue up the wide layback crack and should be linked together. Abseil the route. FA: Jonathon Griffith & Jack, 2012 | 5.9 | 54m, 4, 8 |
1.5.2. Treasure Cave 19 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 24.741373, 110.467972
description
From the parking lot follow the obvious trail. You’ll soon see a muddy water pound on your left. At this point take a right and go through the fields. A staircase path will soon be visible, Taking you through the staircase wall, and all the way to the two caves
approach
(Coming from West Street) Head over to the main intersection. The Vienna International Hotel should be on your left, and on the upper right a large ball thing that is quite colourful.
Go straight at the intersection. Keep driving past butterfly cave, and Worker's Bridge. This can be easily identified by the number of tourists taking pictures. Keep going, then turn right onto Chuan Yan Road.
Cross the flat bridge (can flood easily during monsoon season be careful) and eventually you will see a yellow arch. Turn left of the arch. Keep following the road until you can actually make a left turn, as some roads are driveways.
You will emerge into a concrete road with trees arching above you. Stay on this road, which will turn into gravel then concrete again. There is a gravel road that will emerge on the left, ignore this. The road will soon fork into a "Y", turn left here and follow the road down.
As you continue on this road you will come across a small building with a sign saying something similar to serenity retreat. Turn right here and keep following the road, then dirt road. Walking approach is easily identified from here.
The first large cave you enter, easily visible from far below. Yangshuo Base Camp operate a zip-line here and in fact manage the whole area, giving free access to climbers. Please be respectful.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
南壁 South Wall | ||||||||
2 |
★★ Surprise Attack
Steep corner with a tougher finish. Set: andrew FA: Valentine Laubriet, 2015 | 5.11c | 17m, 8 | |||||
3 |
★★ Fondled in Guilin
Extension to Surprise Attack. Follow a long tough tufa system, passed an easy slab, for quite a "trad" finish. Set: andrew FA: Valentine Laubriet, 2015 | 5.12c | 36m, 19 | |||||
4 |
★★★ 锁链 Ball and Chain
FA: Morgan Heater, 2003 | 5.12a | 28m, 11 | |||||
5 |
Little Three
Warning Fixed Gear: Do not climb it! Rusty and unsafe hardware 不要爬这条线, 挂片太旧的,一点都不安全! FA: Morgan Heater, 2003 | 5.11d | 19m, 6 | |||||
6 |
★★ Arch Enemy
FA: Morgan Heater, 2003 | 5.11a | 18m, 7 | |||||
7 |
★★★ 园丁 Lawnmower Man
This climb is located immediately left from “Where’s My Tyrolean”. Nice face climbing leads to steep climbing through stalactites. FA: Morgan Heater, 2003 | 5.11a | 25m, 12 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★ Where's My Tyrolean?
Sharp holds lead to a nice stalactite. Up 'Windswept' to large ledge, traverse left, then up tufa/stalactite past fixed sling to anchor. FA: Geordie Yip, Ron Yue & Keith Noyes, 2002 | 5.9 | 20m, 8 | |||||
9 |
★★★ Windswept
Super sharp holds leads to slopers, then steep climbing, then up through a horrible stalactite to the anchor. Excellent climb. FA: Andrew Hedesh, Michelle McRory & Ian Farquhar, 2010 | 5.11a | 25m, 12 | |||||
10 |
★★ 斗牛士 Adventure Race Groupies
Nice, easier face climb. FA: Geordie Yip, Ron Yue & Keith Noyes, 2002 | 5.9 | 25m, 8 | |||||
北壁 North Wall | ||||||||
12 |
★★ Tunnel Vision 隔岸观火
FA: Morgan Heater & Neil Preston, 2002 | 5.11c | 25m, 8 | |||||
13 |
★★ Escape the Tourists 躲避游客
FA: Morgan Heater, YingRan & Keith Noyes, 2002 | 5.10c | 27m, 8 | |||||
14 |
★★ 赛安 Seyon
Warning Rock: Wet Awesome climb. Overhung on big holds. Take care of your rope position near some sharp edges. Requires at least 3 alpine draws. 需要至少3个加长快挂。 Don't clip the two bolts close together on the right hand wall, these are for SRT usage and not for this climb. 右侧墙壁上有两个挂片隔得很近可以忽略,是SRT用的。 FA: Keith Noyes, Morgan & Yingren, 2002 | 5.10b | 27m, 10 | |||||
15 |
★ Fire Hydrant
Immediatly right of Sai Yan. Varied climbing of consistent difficulty. Given 6a+ in 2011 guidebook, but likely several grades harder. Unusual marbled rounded holds up high. FA: Simon Lu, 2002 | 5.11a | 25m, 9 | |||||
16 |
★★ Relief
FA: Simon Lü, 2002 | 5.11d | 23m, 8 | |||||
17 |
★ Tunnel Jam Pitch 1
FA: Keith Noyes & YingRan | 5.10d | 28m | |||||
18 |
★★ Tunnel Jam Pitch 2
FA: Morgan Heater | 5.11c | 15m | |||||
19 |
★ Losing Face
Technical off vertical wall climbing. FA: Keith Noyes, Morgan & Yingren, 2002 | 5.10b | 18m, 5 | |||||
20 |
★ Slasher
FA: Geordie Yip, Ron Yue & Keith Noyes | 5.11a | 22m, 11 | |||||
21 |
Knives in the Attic
FA: Geordie Yip, Ron Yue & Keith Noyes | 5.11a | 22m, 8 |
1.5.3. Brother's Cave 15 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 24.741596, 110.468348
description
From the parking lot follow the obvious trail. You’ll soon see a muddy water pound on your left. At this point take a right and go through the fields. A staircase path will soon be visible, Taking you through the staircase wall, and all the way to the two caves
approach
Continue through Treasure's Cave and down and right for 20m along an obvious trail.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
南壁 South Wall | ||||||||
2 |
★ Nut Good
Warning Fixed Gear: After clipping the first QuickDraw you step on a ledge with loosen rocks. I cleaned a good part of it but still, pay attention ! 6b+ FA: CMDI Ozark & Gugu, 2013 | 5.10d | 18m, 2, 8 | |||||
3 |
★★ 90 degrees
Pumpy start. 6b+ FA: Gugu & CMDI Ozark | 5.10d | 15m, 6 | |||||
4 |
★★ Crispy Crimpy
7a FA: CMDI Ozark & Gugu, 2013 | 5.11d | 18m, 8 | |||||
5 |
★★ Outside Side
Warning Fixed Gear: 顶链和倒数第二个挂片锈蚀严重 7a+ FA: CMDI Ozark & Jack, 2013 | 5.12a | 20m, 8 | |||||
6 |
★★ Life Buoy
FA: CMDI Ozark & Qiu Jiang, 2013 | 5.12b | 16m, 7 | |||||
7 |
★★ Right Corner
7a FA: CMDI Ozark & Qiu Jiang, 2013 | 5.11c | 18m, 7 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
北壁 North Wall | ||||||||
9 |
★★★ Trou Sec en Millieu Humide
Warning Fixed Gear: 挂片生锈 Climbs through the tufa system. 6c+ FA: CMDI Ozark & Jack, 2013 | 5.11c | 25m, 9 | |||||
10 |
★★★ DJ
6c FA: CMDI Ozark & Jack, 2013 | 5.11b | 23m, 8 | |||||
11 |
★★ Mini Pee
FA: CMDI Ozark & Xiao P, 2013 | 5.10d | 15m, 5 | |||||
12 |
★★ Ten Bee
6b+ FA: CMDI Ozark & Keng Zi, 2013 | 5.11a | 15m, 6 | |||||
13 |
★★★ Hanging in China
Warning Fixed Gear: 快挂生锈 7c Face climbing to a tufa system then out and traversing across the roof to the cave before a "bouldery" finish FA: Daniel Du Lac & CMDI Ozark | 5.12c | 25m, 13 | |||||
14 |
★★ Air Force One
Warning Fixed Gear: 挂片腐蚀和松动 FA: Daniel Du Lac & CMDI Ozark, 2013 | 5.12b | 25m, 11 | |||||
15 |
★★ Hole Vision
FA: Naoya & CMDI Ozark, 2013 | 5.10c | 15m, 6 | |||||
16 |
Last Breath
FA: GuGu & CMDI Ozark, 2013 | 5.11d | 22m, 10 | |||||
17 |
★ Corner Bug Zoom
This route is outside the cave, on the right side looking in.. FA: Jack & CMDI Ozark, 2013 | 5.10b | 20m, 11 |
1.6. 竹林岩 Bamboo Grove 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Top roping
Lat / Long: 24.737404, 110.477132
summary
Not the best scene for climbing. Building construction nearby has interrupted the belay area.
description
The Bamboo Groove incorporates two separate cliffs, the 'North Buttress' and the 'Main Wall'. Some hangers may be missing and the anchor material will be old. will be dirty but the climbing is interesting... it will be adventure climbing.
1.6.1. Main Wall 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
description
Update November 2011: Easy access but the routes still need a lot more traffic to clean up.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Pickpocket | 5.9 | 25m | |||
2 | Red River | 5.8 | ||||
3 |
A Question of Trust
Very dirty with some loose blocks. | 5.9 | 22m | |||
4 | The Meteor | 5.11- |
1.6.2. North Buttress 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Top roping
description
Update November 2011: The base of this cliff is very overgrown and inaccessible. Some bolts and anchors are missing.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Crippled Swallow | 5.7 | ||||
2 | Slave Labour | 5.9 | ||||
3 | Top-Rope Problem | 5.8 |
1.7. 黑洞 Black Cave 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 24.737484, 110.479784
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
泡沫 Foam
FA: 大魏, 2013 | 5.10b | 15m | |||
2 |
肚脐 Belly Button
FA: Seth bently, 2013 | 5.11c | 15m | |||
3 |
阿姐撸 A Jie Lu
FA: Liu Xiao, 2013 | 5.10c | 20m |
1.8. 小马岩 Horse Crag 14 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 24.739750, 110.468102
description
This crag is located on the Karst just left of square mountain. It shares the same parking spot
access issues
Horse crag was developed for the Yangshuo Base Camp, so it is basically on "private" ground. You are welcome to climb here as long as there aren't customers in the area.
approach
From the parking lot follow the obvious trail. You’ll soon see a muddy water pound on your left. Go over it and reach the wall
ethic
this crag's info was purposely left out of the guide books becasue it is supposed to be used as a guide crag. be nice.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ 1 | 5.9 | 18m | |||||
2 | ★★ 2 | 5.8 | 15m, 6 | |||||
3 | ★ 3 | 5.9 | 15m | |||||
4 | ★ 4 | 5.9 | ||||||
5 | ★ 5 | 5.10a | 18m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 | ★ 6 | 5.9 | ||||||
7 | ★★ 7 | 5.10b | ||||||
8 | ★★ 8 | 5.10c | ||||||
9 | ★★ 9 | 5.10d | ||||||
10 | 10 | 5.5 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 | 11 | 5.5 | ||||||
12 | 12 | 5.7 | ||||||
13 | ★★★ 13 | 5.5 | 8m, 3 | |||||
14 | ★★★ 14 | 5.5 | 8m, 3 |