Ethiopia Guide

Summary:

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76 routes in Region

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 8.600680, 39.509666

Summary:

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74 routes in Crag

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 8.010894, 38.433067

summary

There's a two main crags near Addis. The most popular is Amora Gedel which has over 35 routes, the other is Medero, which continues to be developed.

Although Addis Ababa isn't a great climbing destination, Amora Gedel has good routes in the 6a-7b range and a few above 8a. There is currently 20 routes in Medero. All are very nice and interesting and most of them overhanging (6c-7c+), climbable in any weather.

access issues

See each crag for access issues, of which there are many.

history

Sport climbing is rather new to Addis. The first routes were bolted at Amora Gedel in 2013.

Summary:

38 routes in Area

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 9.090103, 38.799971

summary

The best crag near Addis with some solid rocks and a few multipitch routes.

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description

Armora Gedel (Hawk’s Cliff) is a 40 to 50m basalt, southeast-facing cliff located in the Entoto Mountains next to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. The wall is mostly high-quality basalt and offers steep faces, cracks, crimpers, pockets, aretes and roofs! Climbing season (dry season) in the Ethiopian central highlands runs from mid-September to early June. The entire cliff is in the shade, usually after 1pm, and the sun goes down at 630pm year round. A small group of expat climbers started setting routes in March 2013. As the climbing community in Addis Ababa grows, new route development has continued well into 2016. From the beginning, climbers have tried to integrate the local community as much as possible and negotiated a small climbers fee of 5 birr ($0.25) per climber per day with Ato Alemayu, who leases and farms the land below the cliff. In return, Alemayu is responsible for keeping the children from throwing rocks over the cliff (helmets are highly recommended) and for maintaining general order for rock climbers. At the beginning of each dry season, climbers should negotiate with Alemayu and his family to maintain the trails at the base of the walls. All routes are equipped with two-bolt anchors with chains, slings or at least quick links to lower or abseil. A 60m rope is mandatory. Some climbs on Adwa Wall require 70m to reach the ground. Sport climbers should carry a minimum of 12 quickdraws and trad climbers, a full-rack. The village of Kile is located above the crag. Here dozens of families, whose native tongue is Oromifa, live and farm the adjacent lands. Please respect the farmers and their fields. In Kile, climbers can find water, beer, soft drinks, coffee and sometimes snacks. With the right amount of communication skills, climbers could probably negotiate a meal of injera and wot. The giant fig tree below the walls offers an excellent place to camp. Negotiate firewood and beer in the village before going down. Expect to pay 100 birr per bundle of firewood, which includes delivery. For a more intense and interactive experience, climbers can set up their tents in the village for 40 birr per tent. We recommend Werke’s compound. Several Kile children began climbing with us in 2013 and then received shoes and harnesses through donations. If you visit, please allow them to climb on toprope and give them positive encouragement! Refrain from giving gifts to children, because it creates fierce competition. If you want to help a village, go to Kile and work it out with adults or choose another village.

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access issues

In May 2017, climbers reached a new agreement with Alemayu, and signed a contract at the Kaakoo kebele administrative office (Kile is one of four villages in the kebele).

The new agreement states that Alemayu will be payed 2200 ETB yearly. This covers: -Unlimited access to the cliff. -He is responsible for our safety when it comes to rock throwing. -He will clear the base of the cliff from vegetation after each rainy season. The payment will be in to parts: the first after the base have been cleared, the second six months after.

NO MORE FEES ARE TO BE PAYED AT THE CLIFF.

The agreement was signed in the presence or the deputy administrative head of the kebele, and if there are any violations of the agreement we can bring this directly to the kebele. The money for the fee will be covered by a 200 ETB membership fee to the Addis Ababa Rock Climbing Club (AARCC)*. Any surplus funds can be used to aid the Kaakoo community, or otherwise in ways the club sees fit to promote climbing in Addis Ababa and Ethiopia. It should also be noted that we are allowed to park in the kebele compound, located on the left a few hundred meters after the telecast and the sharp, left turn.

Currently a paved road is under construction, connecting Addis Ababa and the Observatory.

AARCC is so far an informal gathering of climbers that share the joy of climbing; at Amora Gedel, Juventus Sports Club and elsewhere in Ethiopia. Efforts are on the way to make the club a licensed, legal body under Ethiopian law. At the time of this writing, the Climbing CLub was head by Alexander Sellerholm. If you are really going to visit, you should join the FB group here: facebook.com/groups/1198223…

Be aware that Ethiopia's rainy season usually extends from mid May to mid September. Climbing days are to be had if you wake up early, in June and in September. In July and August it rarely stops raining long enough for things to dry.

Route creation began back in April 2013 and continues today. https://nicoparco.com/rock-climbing-in-ethiopia-changed-village-forever/

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approach

Either drive to Kile village above the cliff, park there and walk down (this requires a car that can go on dirt roads).

Or take a taxi to the roundabout at the end of the French Embassy road (near Kidane Miheret church). Then walk to the crag (there are multiple ways that seem to change depending on the years/seasons).

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history

Route creation began back in April 2013 and continues today. See here for further details on the history: https://nicoparco.com/rock-climbing-in-ethiopia-changed-village-forever/

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Summary:

31 routes in Area

Sport climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 9.094027, 38.822123

summary

A series of crags in a beautiful setting. Lots of potential for new bolted routes, or maybe trad if you're bold. There's also a few boulders scattered around.

description

So far routes have been climbed in two sectors. Waterproof sector has a huge overhang and remains dry even during rain, so you can come anytime, the easiest of the 8 routes currently bolted is around 6C+. Jungle crag has a few easier routes, starting around 5a.

So far only a few routes in this crag, so take descriptions and topos with caution.

Some routes are exactly 30 meters so take care with the rope.

access issues

So far, no problem. Please don't give money or do anything that might jeopardise access

approach

With a car it's a short 15 minutes walk downhill.

Without a car, it takes a bit longer but doable. You can take a taxi to the tuktuk stage (located here: 9.04795, 38.84444) then take a tuktuk for as far as possible, then walk for about 10-60 minutes depending how far the tuktuk took you. It's a pleasant walk.

Map for all options here: https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/edit?mid=1Jzb7_dz25bdNfBLvGBdtkHNwD4lwIvKx&usp=sharing

ethic

Routes have been bolted from the top.

history

Bruno found the crag on Google Earth and development began in October 2020.

Summary:

1 route in Area

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 9.111737, 38.807642

summary

Two mixed climbs near Hyena point. More infos here: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/108134251/daves-fall-hyenas-secret-hyena-point

Summary:

4 routes in Area

All Top roping

Lat / Long: 9.083160, 38.763360

summary

Some climbing near the US embassy More details: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/114361645/the-craglette

summary

Basalt crag with two bolted lines, location unknown. 6a/b and (unfinished) 6c/7b

There's also bouldering near Shashamene.

summary

Several boulder fields are accessible by foot in the hills overlooking Yabelo town, boulders located along the asphalt road to Kenya remain to be explored, with potential for single pitch climbing

description

Borena zone tends to be overlooked as a climbing destination, and previous expeditions focused on more high-profile area in Bale mountains, northern Ethiopia and around Addis Ababa. However, there are a number of beautiful rock formations to be explored in the Borena rangelands, from the border with Southern Ethiopia Region, all the way to the Kenyan border. Rock quality seems to vary, but sandstone is most prevalent.

access issues

Accessing Borena zone tends to be challenging due to the isolation of the area. However flight to Arba Minch/Hawassa and road travel to Borena remains possible. Few foreigners visit the area and climbing is virtually unknown in Borena zone. Local pastoralists tend to be chill, despite occurrences of ethnic conflicts in the past and the occasional militia presence.

approach

several boulder fields located on the hills surrounding Yabelo town are accessible by foot from downtown. Other sectors are unexplored to this day. Shrubby vegetation and hot weather can be annoying.

ethic

Leave no traces, be mindful of local communities, some spots might be culturally relevant to locals so ask before.

history

First exploration of the area in September 2023.

summary

A pleasant sandstone boulder field with a view on the town nearby.

description

There are enough boulders for you to explore and figure out your own routes.

access issues

kids from the village might swarm you once they spot you, avoid trampling crops during the rainy season, use common sense and don't do anything that might jeopardize access for future climbers. From the top of the hill to Kodo Sidamo village there is no obvious path to follow, aim downhill and towards the town.

approach

From the main crossroad in the center of Yabelo town, take the large unpaved street aiming towards Gesu village and Abune Hara church. At the outskirt of town, the road gets narrower and steeper, follow the path uphill to Gesu village overlooking the town. Once in the village, aim left and follow the footpath along the ridge line to reach the boulder field, past the last houses. Boulders are spread over a large area that can be explored from the top of the hill and down towards the village marked as "Kobo Sidamo on Google Maps". Return path is through fields and a couple of deep gulleys.

history

First explored in 2023.

summary

A crag near Mekelle, precise location unknown

description

From "A Guide to Rock Climbing and Bouldering in Ethiopia (2014)": The Bubu Hills cliff or Homebase as we like to call it, is a long basalt cliff east of Mekelle, our home town. It is located behind the Bubu Hills Hotel (now the Hilltops Hotel) and is easily accessible by car or by foot. Although the overall quality of the rock is rather poor due to onion-peel weathering of the basalt, extensive parts of compact rock with cracks can be found here. At the foot of the cliff, some large basalt blocks make good boulder fun. We opened 5 boulder routes (3 to 5c) and one easy chimney today. The chimney was named "LaTrine" (4a) since rock hyraxes were using the crack as a communal toilet.

• Name: Homebase • Location: Enderta • Altitude: 2250 m • Nearest city: Mekelle • Rock type: basalt • Route lengths: 50 meter • Number of routes today: 1 + 5 boulder routes • First route opened: 13/08/2004 by R. Aerts (Direct, 4b) • Equipped with: nothing • Other: boulders near rock base

Summary:

2 routes in Crag

Sandstone

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 13.914991, 39.346016

Summary:

1 route in Crag

Lat / Long: 13.914991, 39.346016

Table of contents

1. Ethiopia

1.1. Addis Ababa

1.1.1. Amora Gedel

1.1.2. Medero Waterproof

1.1.3. Dave's Fall & Hyena's Secret

1.1.4. The Craglette

1.1.5. Boro Crag

1.1.6. Potential climbing, not yet climbed

1.2. Borena

1.2.1. Fontainebleau'Rena

1.3. Homebase

1.4. Gheralta Range

1.4.1. Sheba Tower