Ascents: Ascents in Europe as Flash as sport by Jakob Schubert

	Grade	Route	Gear style	Crag	Quality	Date
Sport
	8c+ 8c+/9a	★ Victimes del Futur	Sport 25m, 10	Margalef	★ Good	Sun 10th Nov 2019
My hardest flash so far! People call it 9a since two things broke in the crux but could very well still be 8c+, hard to tell with just one try on it. Love the bouldery style!
	8a	★★★ Samsara	Sport 19m, 9	Mišja Peč	★★ Very Good	Thu 19th Nov 2009
	8b	★★ Marjetica	Sport 16m, 8	Mišja Peč	★★ Very Good	Tue 20th Nov 2007
8b/8b+! climbed it with no feeling in my fingers, so cold!
	8b	★★ Marioneta	Sport 19m, 8	Mišja Peč	★★ Very Good	Mon 21st Nov 2011
japanese beta
	8b+	★★ Doble Iluna (Doble Lluna)	Sport 14m, 8	Margalef	★★ Very Good	Wed 31st Dec 2008
d276589maybe 8b
	8a+	★★ Sonce v očeh (Sonce v o?eh)	Sport 16m, 6	Mišja Peč	★★ Very Good	Wed 21st Nov 2007
	8a+	★★★ Wargames	Sport 15m	Niederthai	★★ Very Good	Sun 17th Jun 2007
Cool! super day
	8a+	★★★ White winds	Sport 20m	Wilder Kaiser	★★★ Classic	Sun 30th Mar 2008
need more endurance! was like a onsight
	8a	★★★ Carte Blanche	Sport 20m	Céüse	★★★ Classic	Sun 3rd Aug 2008
	8c	★★★ der schwarze Schwan	Sport 20m	Armelen	★★★ Classic	Sun 23rd May 2010
YEAH! amazing route! thx to the Özis:Heiko, Luke and Babsy!
	8a	★★ Dopingprobe	Sport 15m	Niederthai	★★ Very Good	Fri 1st Sep 2006
Cool, Not so hard, holes holes holes!Just one hard move at the end!
	8b+ 8c	★★ Darwin dixit	Sport	Margalef	★★ Very Good	Mon 19th Apr 2010
really soft...
	8c	★★★ El gran blau	Sport 50m	Oliana	★★★ Classic	Thu 22nd Apr 2010
wuhuu 50 meters of joy! thx Fuzzy!!!
	8a+	★★ Metamorphose	Sport	Piburger See	★★ Very Good	Thu 21st Apr 2011
	8a	★★ Intrepidos montanhistas	Sport	Alquézar	★★ Very Good	Wed 24th Dec 2008
Harder now, cause a hold broke
	8a	El mentor	Sport	Alquézar		Sun 21st Dec 2008
	8a	★★★ Scientist (The Scientist)	Sport 18m	Ginzling	★★★ Classic	Wed 23rd Jul 2008
super route with a dyno in the end
	8a+	★★ Matador	Sport	Salavas	★★ Very Good	Mon 31st Jul 2006
short
	7c+ 8a	★★ Trans	Sport	Tende	★★ Very Good	Sat 15th Apr 2006
oh man so hard flash!
	8c+	Tres Satélites - with Jakob Schubert	Sport	Otiñar		Mar 2016
	8a+	★★ Irak Attack	Sport 18m	Santa Linya	★★ Very Good	Mon 8th Jan 2018
flash/onsight
	7b+	★★★ Harry Has It All	Sport	Scheabichl		Sat 10th Nov 2018
	8a+	★★★ Baumkrone	Sport	Scheabichl		Sat 10th Nov 2018
	8c+	★★★ Lichtjahre	Sport 25m	Wilder Kaiser	★★★ Classic	Sun 4th Oct 2020
After a relaxed breakfast at my girlfriend’s parents place, we drove to Schleierwasserfall and I warmed up with a 7c route. My buddy Mischa Piccolruaz tried the route Lichtjahre and so I was able to watch him closely and get a good impression of the route. I was psyched to give it a go as well and after Mischa convinced me I should even try to flash it, I warmed up at the fingerboard and went through the route mentally before I attempted it. The route went really well, I loved the style and I felt on top of my game so I could flash it pretty solidly. It always takes two, though, to achieve a flash: someone who does the work and checks out the route and then is able to talk you through. It was Mischa who gave me such great support, thanks buddy! Lichtjahre is located in the grey sector of the Schleierwasserfall, where the routes are slightly shorter (about 20m), it's one of the best routes of the crag and I can only recommend it Right next to it there are a couple routes that I already knew, as for example Mercy Street which is pretty similar in style so I knew what to expect. A lot of sharp holds and quite difficult from the start. Some bouldery sections with long and powerful moves but good holds. Closer to the end you need to keep it together as it’s all about endurance. One of the trickier parts was where a big foot hold had broken away a few months ago. Many say the route got a lot harder since then. Even before it was a hard 8c, so it’s absolutely fair for Alex Megos to say it’s an 8c+ now. After flashing something it's always hard to grade it but I think 8c+ could be right, although it didn't feel much harder than Mercy Street for me, so one could argue it's still 8c, we will see what other people will say Due to my biceps tendon injury I had to adapt my training. Rock climbing proved great for my recovery, so I climbed a lot recently, improved my endurance and that’s why I feel super comfortable on the rocks these days. Psyche for more!
	8c	★★★ Goldrausch	Sport	Secret Crag	★★★ Mega Classic	Wed 7th Oct 2020
Wow such an amazing one!! thanks for the beta and showing us this line Heiko!!
	8b	★★ Rocketman	Sport 20m	Achleiten	★★★ Classic	Fri 6th Nov 2020
Thanks to misha for the perfect beta! Pretty hard for 8b
	8c+ 8c+/9a	★ Jungle Speed	Sport 15m	Siurana	Average	Sun 12th Dec 2021
Yes! Probably my hardest flash so far, at least I really struggled and had to fight 😅 8c+/9a, hard to grade after the flash since I definitely didn’t climb it optimally.. Thanks for the beta and support Alfons 🙏

After a relaxed breakfast at my girlfriend’s parents place, we drove to Schleierwasserfall and I warmed up with a 7c route. My buddy Mischa Piccolruaz tried the route Lichtjahre and so I was able to watch him closely and get a good impression of the route.

I was psyched to give it a go as well and after Mischa convinced me I should even try to flash it, I warmed up at the fingerboard and went through the route mentally before I attempted it. The route went really well, I loved the style and I felt on top of my game so I could flash it pretty solidly.

It always takes two, though, to achieve a flash: someone who does the work and checks out the route and then is able to talk you through. It was Mischa who gave me such great support, thanks buddy!

Lichtjahre is located in the grey sector of the Schleierwasserfall, where the routes are slightly shorter (about 20m), it's one of the best routes of the crag and I can only recommend it

Right next to it there are a couple routes that I already knew, as for example Mercy Street which is pretty similar in style so I knew what to expect. A lot of sharp holds and quite difficult from the start. Some bouldery sections with long and powerful moves but good holds. Closer to the end you need to keep it together as it’s all about endurance.

One of the trickier parts was where a big foot hold had broken away a few months ago. Many say the route got a lot harder since then. Even before it was a hard 8c, so it’s absolutely fair for Alex Megos to say it’s an 8c+ now. After flashing something it's always hard to grade it but I think 8c+ could be right, although it didn't feel much harder than Mercy Street for me, so one could argue it's still 8c, we will see what other people will say

Due to my biceps tendon injury I had to adapt my training. Rock climbing proved great for my recovery, so I climbed a lot recently, improved my endurance and that’s why I feel super comfortable on the rocks these days. Psyche for more!

Ascents in Europe as Flash as sport by Jakob Schubert

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