Routes as aid in Europe

A mega classic! All belays, except the summit, are triple bolted anchors configured for guide-mode belaying.

1. 30m Solo up the initial slab to the first anchor. Take care if climbing the loose flake / crack to the left.

2. 50m (4) Easy but runout (4 bolts) up the initial slab.

3. 30m (4) More of the same, but with more bolts.

4. 35m (5) Nice climbing beside a left facing corner and through a small roof. Loads of bolts.

5. 20m (5+) Starting to steepen, but still pretty cruisy. Loads of bolts.

6. 30m (6b+) The first "business" pitch - the endurance crux of the route. Moderate start leads to a steepening in the wall, where the difficulties begin. The climbing eases off again once you gain the arete. Very very tightly bolted (take at least 20 quickdraws if you intend to clip everything, but skipping bolts or back cleaning is a better option).

7. 15m (6c) The second "business" pitch - the technical crux of the route. Some very tenuous moves up the steep wall. Also very tightly bolted.

8. 25m (6a) One or two dicky moves around the arete (very well protected), then easy up the juggy slab to the top (a little runout). Belay off the steel contraption with the crown on top of the pinnacle, not the manky old anchor just before the final step.

Climb in via 'Via Kapf'

7b / 6a A0. A long and enticing line up the beautiful Roque de las Animas. The route starts at a chalky overhang with an obvious approach through the ferns. This route is not nearly as serious as you might expect from a 250m climb, with a line of bolts leading the way. The route can be climbed at 6a A0 if you pull on bolts through the hard moves, though on the lower pitches it is stiff for that grade. The upper pitches of 7a and 7b are bolt ladders for easy aid. The route can be climbed on bolts alone, but a light trad rack is highly recommended, especially for the 1st pitch. Bolts lead all pitches except for the second half of the 6th pitch, this requires gear in easy choss, tending left and leading to an anchor under the final roof.

The first part of the route consists of 6 pitches featuring face and dihedral climbing. The rock is a little bit greasy, in the first 3 pitches very vegetated and sometimes loose because of the few repetitions (1986-2009 11 times). The belays are all bolted but in between the are just some old pegs and you have to enhance the protection with friends and rocks. Which isn't always possible.

The second part of the route features technical climbing in two big roofs where you need ladders. The first roof is protected with some old (loose) pegs which have to be enhanced with friends. The second roof is well protected with bolts and ends with a difficult technical climbing section. After the upper roof one pitch of good face climbing remains.

Variant in the first pitch of Krízis

Very good route on excellent rock and very well secured (no need of any trad gear at all). The big roof is a unique (and exhausting) experience. Bolts in the latest meters are sometimes challenging to reach and you need to remember that you can use the rock again to help. Slings would make it but ladders bring a relative but very welcome comfort. A minimum of 12 quickdraws are required to pass the roof.

Second pitch of "Pfeilerweg". Unsure if this has been freed.

Old School Aid Climbing Route equipped with Rivets M8x18mm

Yellow Piton Marks the Beginning First Pitch might needs some additional Protection

Note: The Rivetladder is still in Original State(1960s) with only few new Bolts at the Belaystations and inbetween the Rivetladder so great Care should be taken when stepping into the Aiders Some Rivets are in Bad State

Easy start past sling. Up to bolt on the right, trend left then over the bulge to the anchor.

Something completely different.First pitch aid using fixed (dodgy) threads. Zawn climbing. Bring your headlamp Third pitch has loose rock.

6c o Ae (5c obligatorio). Muy muy equipada

L1 6a, L2 III Semiequipada: friends

6a A0 in the beginning, then 5b/c

Bolt ladder with some massive roofs

1. 45m 6c A2 bzw. 7a+ (linke Variante) oder 6c A2+ (rechte Variante): Erst Freikletterei in großer Platte, dann entweder nach links zur Schuppe (einfacher) oder rechtshaltend mit 2 x Bathook zum feinen Riss (besser).

2. 20m A1 und 4: Dreckrampe und Podeste.

3. 40m A1 und 4+: Linkshaltend bis zu Band, dort nach rechts queren zum „Ersten großen Band“

4. 40m A3+: Viele mittlere Pecker und mittlere Knifeblades. Erst Verschneidung, dann Rechtsquerung an Cam-Schuppe zum Stand: Achtung: am Ende der SL unbedingt den Bogen über links klettern, nicht direkt zum Stand, wegen loser Riesenschuppe!

5. 25m A3+ und 4: Links haltend in überhängende Platte mit 8-mm-Bolt und fixiertem Pecker. Zuletzt einfach zum Stand.

6. 45m A2+ und 4 „Great-Roof-Pitch“: Feiner Riss in der rechten Wand – luftig.

7. 10m „Zweites großes Band“: Querung nach links. Offensichtlicher Stand an Cams.

8. 60m A3 und 4 „Chockstone-Crack“: Geschwungener Offwith-Riss. Achtung, die Klemmsteine sind locker. Pendelquergang an Bolt zu heikler Schuppe.

9. 40m 5 A2 „Nose“: Markanter Riss, Dachquerung nach rechts, kurze Ausstiegs-verschneidung. Stand an Block.

Quelle: Alpinkader NRW

First pitch 6a A0 in the beginning, then 5c

Friends

First pitch 6a A0 in the beginning, then 5a; Second pitch 6a

On the rock is V+ A0, but no bolt for A0, only ring in easy part (near Turistická, III UIAA). Friends accepted. Na položenou stěnku s prasklinou pod vyčnívající balvan, na něm vlevo a vpravo za hranu ke kruhu. Pak doprava na konec.

Rock not always perfect, pro as well

Second pitch of “Talseite”. Traverses to the right below the last bolt, up to a grassy ledge, then through the crack to the summit.

Second pitch of ”Nürnberger Kamin“. Traverse to the right along the obvious break to an abseil ring. Abseil 8 m and swing to the right. Belay at bolt around the corner, then up the chimney.

Mixta de deportiva y artificial.