Routes in Europe for selected grade

Initially graded 8c, Siebe Vanhee and Séb Berthe suggest 8b+ (Aug-2023).

The direct over the imposing roof features the hardest mantelshelf in the world - a free hanging one-armed flip, with no footholds! Good holds lead to the lip but above there is precious little with which to make progress. If you manage the desperate gymnastics, casually saunter up Elegy to finish. Protected by side-runners (a chockstone in the crack) and RPs low down.

4m links vom "Kruzifix" Wand, Dach (2R) und gerade bewachsene Wand an Absatz vorbei zG.

Second pitch of Norwegian Crown. Initially climbed as A2.

Open trad project. Potentially the hardest trad line without limiters in the entirety of Rudawy Janowickie.

Iker Pou said: This is the most important route we've ever climbed. We worked it for two whole months this summer and it can be broken down into three sections. The first four pitches are new and very steep and were first ascended with a Rätikon and Wendenstöcke mentality, which means long run-outs from one bolt to the other! The second section shares six pitches of an old route called Mediterraneo, first climbed in 1980 using aid. The 5th pitch is the technical crux at 8c+/9a and although it is a bit easier, it is still 8a+. Both were originally climbed using aid and graded A3, and we risked big falls between 20 -25m. The protection on these pitches was very old, there were some original bolts, but most of the rest are wooden pitons, copperheads, micro-friends and nuts..."

Free Ascents

• 2015 Nina Caprez & Cédric Lachat

AF Xc. Rechts in der Talseite Wand (8R) zum 5.R der "Wand der Abendröte". Leicht linkshaltend zum 6.R von "Direkte Wand der Abendröte". Deren Rissspur bis Ende und "Superdirekte Wand der Abendröte" zG.

Tiny crimps, minuscule pockets, athletic moves past long runouts. You need to be in good shape, physically but also mentally.

A combination of the boulder The Green Shadow with Greenspit.

Mittig in der stark überhängenden Südwestseite von mittlerem Block Wand rechtsansteigend (2R) und Südkante zG.

AF XIc.

• TOPO.jpg and details on bergsteigen.com

The route takes an initial 45° degree overhanging wall to reach the first roof crux at circa 8a+, before lunging upwards into 8b terrain.

In der Talseite (unterhalb von kleinem Winkel) über Dach und leicht rechts zu R. Reibung leicht rechts (R) zum 2. R der „Katzenreibung“. Diese zG.

Overhanging crack climb!

AF XIb. In Mitte der Nordwestschmalseite Wand im Linksbogen (3R) und linkshaltend zum 4.R vom „Ausstiegsgespenst“. Dieses zG.

Gear:

Friends up to 3

Bloc en bas puis rési. Très belle voie.

A linkup - You climb 'Eiszeit' below the final crux and then move to the right into 'Black Pearl'.

starts right of Escalar fanatico to connect on Resistencia Mekanica

First part of "phoenix" and second part of "southern light" . Logical line.