Routes as alpine in France

Up through the glorious roof crack on the left of the face then on to the top.

A combination of mixed and rock climbing on a buttress that these days only really lends itself to a winter ascent to keep things safe. This is due to the amount of loose rock on the ledges which are held together by the snow.

The rock quality is very good on the route but beware of a loose exit to the ridge. ⚠️ Descent by abseil down the line.

Source Matt Helliker

Must do direct line, alternating crack (no fixed gear) and slabs (bolted). The 7a section is a short 10 m with 3 bolts, the rest is sustained with everything between 6b and 6c

A fairly steep climb with some short hard passages. 6a+/A0 or 6c free. Limited fixed pro, belays may need back-up

Combination of the Old Bonnati route first 4 pitches and the last 2 pitches of Tabou makes for a good 5c to 6b+ climb. This avoids the harder pitches of the other routes.

Climb up center of face L of big corner.

Best accessed from Aiguille du Midi ca. 1h over glacier. Need to have skills for glacier travel.

Approach on glacier

All the belays are equipped with two bolts. If you climb to top of first tower it is possible to abseil down the route. If you continue the easy pitches to summit you need to abseil / down climb south face (bring approach kit).

A classic varied climb with cracks, corners and chimneys on sound solid rock.

https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54496/fr/aiguille-de-sialouze-traversee-arete-s-arete-n

Partially nonexistant due to rockfall

A classic slab climb with some tricky route finding. A few bolts guiding the way over the slabs, otherwise small cams and nuts. Depending on season you may need crampons and axe for approach & descent.

From hut, walk up rognon behind hut to access glacier, cross glacier to base of route at approx 3000m. Simulclimb for 500m crossing first gully before using second gully to gain ridge. Continue simul-climbing until reaching terrain where the need to begin pitching becomes obvious. Climb 17wandering pitches to gain summit of Petit Dru 3730m before descending to Brecht des Drus then climbing 2 more pitches to gain summit of Grand Dru 3750m. Walk off SE side of Grand Dru approx 100m below summit to find a small natural pinnacle with the first bolted abseil anchor. Complete 8-10 abseils always trending abseiled right to locate next anchor and eventually reach glacier.

Nice ridge climb. Climbing is not sustained, and belays are comfortable.

Classic, beautiful views over the Mer de Glace. Aerial, aesthetic, quickly in conditions. Quite frequented.

An excellent route with varied climbing. Rock is mostly excellent, however pitch 3 and 4 have some loose rock. The last pitch is the crux and ended on a small summit. The belays are bolted and there are numerous pitons through out the climb. A standard rack will get you up.

Belays in place and some bolts

A nice bolted climb with great views.

Start altitude: 2,225m

Approach: From the top of the Index chairlift, head slightly left towards the buttress. The route is on the wall facing you. Enter the route from the right of the buttress, up where the terrain gets noticeably more vertical.

1. 4c, 50m.

2. 4c, 15m.

3. 4c, 35m.

4. 4b, 30m. Climb to the top of the intermediate spire.

5. 3a, 25m. Scramble rightwards across the small ridge and gap to the belay locates below the slabby wall on a large ledge.

6. 5a, 30m. Climb the wall above to top out.

Descent: Scramble down a route off the back of the buttress towards a loose gully between you and l’Index. Scramble generally leftwards down the gully towards an equipped 28m abseil. At the foot of the abseil walk directly back to the chairlift.

Can be used as an access route to O Sole mio, Voie des Suisses, De fil en aiguille, Le sourire de l’été and Voyage selon Gulliver.

From the hut, walk up N/NE around the base of east face of the Dibona until you reach the foot of the Brèche des Clochetons. Scramble up towards the left on some very easy slabs to find the start of the route at the base of the obvious couloir leading to the Brèche des Clochetons, left of the Clochetons Gunneng.

All pitches are approx. 40m, requiring up to 7 draws.

1. approx. 40m (5a, crux) Head up the slab slightly towards the left, aiming for a small overhang. Below the overhand, traverse to the left for a few steps. A moderately high rockover move on the left foot gets you just below the first belay (3 bolts, cordelette).

2. approx. 40m (4c) Head straight up the slab from the first belay until the bolts start veering off to the right. Traverse right as soon as possible using the obvious line until you are almost below the second belay (3 bolts, cordelette).

3. approx. 40m (3c) Head straight up the easy slabs, obvious line.

4. approx. 40m (3c) Head straight up the easy slabs, obvious line.

5. approx. 40m (3c) From the 4th belay, head diagonally up to the left, crossing over a couloir coming down from the base of the Clochetons, and continue up and leftward towards the Brèche des Clochetons. The last belay (2 bolts, cordelette) is located on the arète with a comfortable platform on the other side.