Ascents in Frankenjura as Clean

Climbers on the slimmer side can start the chimney on the deepest end, where its the easiest. Very enjoyable chimney, over a jammed block, up to the prominent traverse, which was the crux of the pitch then. On a few crimps and smaller holes on okay foot holds to the left then. Gladly with provided super long toprope in a bolt of "Sarg"!

Climbed in two pitches. Not easy, relatively exposed route, alpine feeling.

Flash

If the rock was less brittle, it would be a "Classic"!

The first 8m are adventurous climbing on loose holds buried in sand. After the first bolt appears a very nice but quite tricky section of dihedral climbing. It is possible to make a belay at the bolt on the ledge at about half of the wall.

The second pitch consists of wonderful crack and dihedral climbing on mostly very good footholds. I did the crux at the slightly overhangig crack with crack climbing, right arm and foot into the crack and then hustle your way up to the good holds and the next ledge.

The last few meters are easy chimney climbing to the anchor. Fantastic route!

First pitch is brittle and sandy as hell Second pitch is super awesome. Protection (including the cowbell™) placed by Christoph Rauch, thanks

The upper part is quite nice climbing, but the lower half of the route is very overgrown. It is hard to decide if there are footholds hidden underneath the moss or not. Sometimes there is one and sometimes it is just a thick block of moss which crumbles away if you try to step on it.

Easy slab in the beginning, diagonal from right to left, onto a small vegetated ledge at about 8-10m height (bolt). Some loose rock around there, had to be careful.

Then I dug out a fantastic crack-dihedral, that was covered in a thick layer of earth. Although Christoph Rauch already cleaned a bit when he lead that part. After another 8-10m up was a small ledge (bolt), where Christoph Rauch was waiting for me. Very vegetated and dirty. Cleaned a lot of dirt there, that covered the crack below us again in dirt. Needs 1-2 more ascents until its fully clean.

Now a traverse to the right and into some alpine loose rock and -who would have thought- more dirt. Then up a bit (bolt) onto the next belay on top of a big block of unknown stability (bolt). From there the rock quality becomes very good.

Up a bit (old ring) and then begins the slightly overhanging traverse further to the right for about 8m (two bolts). Fantastic holds there and although rather exposed, it is not intimidating. After that some last easy 10m up to the abseil anchor, unusual for the Frankenjura with two bolts instead of one. The 80m rope was enough to get to the ground in one abseil.

Christoph Rauch showing me a different style of climbing. The route itself is a lot better than it looks from below! I can't imagine leading in this style yet but following was fun. Nice little adventure.

Best cleaned by seconding. So I did.

Better rock quality than the other route we did today. Good climbing with interesting moves.

The first pitch begins with an easy dihedral (bolt at the end) and then a long traverse to a large hole (bolt). From there one easy "overhang" move to the end of the first pitch on a ledge (bolt).

The first few moves from there are quite hard for the grade in my opinion (vertical with bad holds), or maybe I am too small or didn't find the easiest way. The last few meters to the summit are pure joy.

Better wear a helmet. There are some loose stones lying around on the small ledges and although mostly solid, there are some crumbly areas on the rock.

Mehr draußen geklettert, wunderschön!

Finally! When I passed the point where Christoph Rauch bailed yesterday, I could fully understand why. The climbing could actually be nice without the thick moss and dirt over every hold and foothold.

Nice juggy direct finish to the "Bergseite".

Fantastic route, I enjoyed it very much! Thanks to Christoph Rauch for leading (and cleaning this route from the dirt!)

Sadly the route does not go through the hole, but it is nice and interesting nevertheless.

#repeat #lastrouteoftheday

cleaning go.

Always a pleasure. Unfortunately, we missed the year's first by a few days, but that's to be expected for such a good summit.

Way more relaxed seconding this, still not that easy and straightforward, but maybe I was just out of power. #lastrouteoftheday and #summit! Great view!

Kamin, Balken.