Ascents in Germany by HaeMeS

Zwischenreingedrängelt. Hard to stay 'en route' and not climb on the neighbouring routes. #2go

#2go

Nice!

Not as good as I had hoped. Stupid first bolt, bouldery crux and easy climbing to the top. Albatros and Sick Boy are a lot nicer.

Feels and climbs just like at 'home' in Ettringen. Palming and bridging your way up a steep dihedral. Can't see how to climb the route without the pinscars though. Maybe next time with the crack gloves the other way round... hmmm!

Fun route with two cruxes. Nice and technical in stead of bouldery.

Super! #hard

7a/+. kalte Finger. Macht die Griffe sauber!

Nice moves and good rock. XIII-. #hard

One move wonder difficulty-wise. Nice wall for a starter and easy crack to finish with slap/dyno inbetween. First tried 19 years ago. #2go

One of the best routes in Ettringen. Starts with overhanging crack (hands) and ends with a boulder.

Toprope rep. N #soft

O, the joy of having enough reach in the Pfalz... ;-). Please brush the holds after you've finished - it's fairly essential on sandstone to have clean holds - as well as it being a gesture of decency towards the next climber. Bitte nach dem Klettern die Griffe putzen.

Fun route. Don’t forget the cam for the upper crack (several sizes fit, a C3 0,5 or 0,75 can be placed at the top of the crack).

Beautifull undercling/crack. Thank god they did not bolt it. Strange, there's no really hard moves, but took several tries to get it done - pumpy route.

Nice crack.

#soft

Polished and awkward climbing in the lower part. Avoidable as well by making a detour to the flake. One move wonder crux at the top. Not the best of routes. Relatively well bolted for a change (except B2 is hard to hang a draw into for the short). #hard

Very nice climb on good rock. Lots of bolts make it on of the few pure sports climbs around. Cruxy round bolt 3, fun at the top. #soft

Tricky crux. Polished and shitty rock. #hard

Big overhang on good holds. Had to downclimb to unclip a draw which caused rope-drag.

First nice route I've done in the Frankenjura. Unforgivenable mistake on the onsight go - damn it! #2go

Schön.

Unusual climbing for limestone/Frankenjura.

Grotty and unremarkable route but at least it is in the shade. Would be a no brainer to NOT climb if this route were on any other cliff than one in the Frankenjura. Reminder to always stick to the premeditated plan. Damn, so second go it was. #2go

#hard

Tricky moves on the pillar. Humid conditions (sweaty hands) made the on-sight impossible. #2go

Very nice layback moves in the upper part. Fun. Climbs better then it looks. 7b+ seems about right.

#soft

Slap/jump to the big hole/ Bit of a one move wonder. FFS brush after you climb! The rock in the Franken is often rounded, has a fairly smooth texture and tends to be slippery in the [too often] humid conditions. Brushing the holds removes the chalk and makes the climbing a lot more enjoyable for those who come next. It's like picking up the trash before you leave - a question of decency.

Nice moves. #soft

Shitty route. Why not put a 4th bolt before the belay? Now everybody avoids the upper part.

#soft

With direct finish following the edge.

To easy for 7b - more like VIII/VIII+. One move wonder. #soft

From bolt #2 in the route to the left traverse the wall to the righthand edge. Climb this using a cunning heelhook. Fun moves! Did not find the kneebar. #2go

Pff, tricky moves in upper dihedral being chased by the sun. Missed the onsight by an inch, had to try very hard to get the redpoint. Good route!

Good condi’s low down but too humid at the lip of the roof. What a route! Cool moves! #hard

Not very typical for Ettringen: overhanging and pumpy. Very nice route. Beware: the belay is rotten ( 6-2013) and should be replaced.

One move. #2go

Rep./retroflash. Good conditions low down, more humid higher up.

#2go

#2go