Ascents in Weißmain-Alb as Pink point

10-/10

9+/10-

Mit getrocknetem Untergriff hat es zuletzt noch geklappt - putzen lohnt sich!

4th go

Steep, thuggy, athletic, wonderful. Easily the best route I've climbed in this style.

The route starts off with a bouldery, core strength crux at bolts 2 to 3. As usual, good foot placement is the key. Afterwards, things do get easier while still demanding endurance. A long move to a sloper at the 4th bolt is the usual post-crux kicker and two sloper edges above the last bolt are the final serious hurdle.

I almost sent this 2 years ago, falling at the move from the final sloper edge. Ever since, i always wanted to get the proper send, but a combination of bad conditions and a serious long-term injury kept me from going for it.

So sending while tired and angsty from 1.5 rainy days of terrible conditions and fruitless attempts was... awesome 😎

Went through nicely, despite the harsh wind and the rain. Dynamic move from an overhead gaston to a shallow pocket, foot up onto the jug, grab undercling on the right and bump up to good chunky hold (the others put their thumbs in the small pocket below, but that didn't help me at all). The rest of the moves are easier but still sustained up to the next bolt. Steep, but easy jug finish.

Three hard passages with a no-hand rest after the first two, athletic but not too difficult start. Beautiful climbing on pockets. The start can be done in different ways. I traversed low on the big lip, Gunther one floor higher. Doesn't really matter. Already a little polished.

After I had worked the crux, I thought it would be easy, but the middle section before the moss still pumps you up! Great route with a steep but juggy start, a technical crux section and wonderful pocket pulling after that. Took a sling and a set of wires for the upper part, which is still worth doing despite the moss!

Didn't have too much rest before this attempt, but gave it a shot. The lower part with the super sharp pockets and crimps felt solid, but then I almost couldn't clip the long draw in the rooflet … eventually used Tobi's beta pinching the two good pockets to clip and immediately set off for the lunge. The last few meters were quite at my limit, but it worked out.

The route starts fluffy, with juggy climbing and a good sitting rest in the upper hollow.

Continuing up the flake is a pleasant stroll (assuming you find the good holds). However, once you reach the end, a brutal, angry 3 move moonboard boulder awaits. If you survived, a nice undercling traverse and a ca grade 5 dihedral get you to the anchor.

To my surprise, I sent #2ndgo while trashed from b&b. Much easier than b&b imo, but that might be because the short crux suits my style and the rest is not sustained.

Great, aesthetic and fun line. I was psyched to give it another go all week. Unfortunately, I started the day feeling trashed and sleep deprived and thus kept falling on the move to the first mono, mosty due to bad coordination. I don't know how often I climbed the initial boulder, but I was definitely feeling it when I hopped on one last time to clean the draws. But - on that go I hit the mono, and everything else just went. Bam!

Started slightly right. 8+/9-

First 9- 🥳 super soft and super geil 🤙😃

3rd go

1-Go

I almost hesitated after clipping the first bolt, but then just went for it. Enjoyed the crux moves a lot!

Brilliant arête with perfect rock quality in the upper part, nice exposure. Slightly odd start a bit left over a bulge with powerful moves.

Nasty boulder at the start. Tobi convinced me that I should try his beta for the flash. Not sure if he wanted to see me fall off, but after one try, I started 30 cm to the right and it worked straight away. Still, first bolt is better pre-clipped if you haven't practiced the sequence there. The rest is relatively homogeneous pocket climbing, around 7+ or so, but I was quite exhausted already so it felt hard.

Great roof climbing on big holds. Short, slightly reachy slab to the roof. The second bolt in the roof is quite far away and the holds can be a bit dusty, make sure you don't fall while clipping, otherwise you're back to where you started. Found a great beta at the edge of the roof involving my signature overhead heel hook, blocking off a sloper and reaching for the rescue jug. The upper wall is not that hard, even though I think I followed the line of bolts from "Die Spur von Sehnsucht", but you can still fall off. Rarely visited summit.

Super schöne und abwechslungsreiche Route!

Nächstes Langzeitprojekt:D

#1stGo

Once you know how to do it and you've got the right footholds sorted out, it's no longer a big deal.

one crux in the middle part. But after that still a little pumpy

Fühlt sich einfach subjektiv viel schwerer als alle anderen 7a an.