Ascents in Fränkische Schweiz

Aid pitch through the roof (from the anchor of Halber Hermann), set up hanging belay in the original position due to rope drag. Short pitch to the book case, then up over the bulge to the place where Schuhmacher comes in from the left. The top part was wet, so I decided to finish the Schuhmacher route.

Great first pitch in sublime rock. Knew the dihedral already from "Verbindungsweg". The traverse from the big rock tunnel to the right is also beautiful and easy. Second pitch starts off with tough boulder moves away from the ledge. Doesn't get much easier from there, but the rock is good and the protection is also fine (there's even a little tree to wrap a sling around in addition to the Bühler bolts and pegs). I aided a few sections, then retreated at the Bühler bolt on the next little ledge, since it was raining and the top part is chossy and was already quite wet. I'll gladly come back to finish the second pitch (and freely, too!).

My favorite multi-pitch in Frankenjura so far. Really good blend of pumpy, pockety, Franken-clibing, some alpine traversing, a nice chimney section, comfortable belays, and a cruise to the finish. Looking forward to attempting "Take Five" on the next time through.

Alpine adventure climbing with two traverses and a good amount of choss. Crux of the first pitch is right at the second bolt, the rest is way easier. The second pitch is a bit more homogeneous. The traverse to the anchor, where the rock quality is noticeably better, is quite good. Said anchor, however, is a lower-off-only "sow's tail", which doesn't make any sense in such a route …

Couldn't make out the bolts from the ground so I trusted the topo in the Schwertner book where this is drawn as a single pitch with "high first bolt". Ridiculous. Put one nut in half-way up to the ledge, then realised at the "first bolt" that the traverse is a separate pitch and it's impossible to do it without bringing up a second, so I lowered from there.

Really alpine undertaking. Up a thin layback flake to a good bolt, then tough traverse to the left (keep low!) via a peg to a brittle slab (bigger cam). Up the slab via two bolts below the roof. The traverse to the left below the roof is the nicest part of the whole route, really enjoyable in beautiful rock, then around the corner and up the dihedral to the next roof. The hardest part is getting from the last bolt around the corner again to the belay, via slopers, some of which were wet. I tried a few times, got pumped quite hard, and the rope always snagged, so I couldn't easily pull up rope to clip the peg that was probably used as the anchor back in the day. In the end, I pulled on the carabiner to haul up rope. Not entirely satisfied, but I climbed everything freely, so still counting it. Probably I'll come back again, anyway, because there was no pencil for the book. The start of pitch 2 is actually the hardest part, very powerful layback moves on slopy holds. Took me a few attempts. The rest of the route is comparatively easy, but you should maybe back up the old rusty pegs with some gear. Still quite burly along the crack dihedral. Thorn bush before the exit, too.

first Onsight of an 8c in Fränkischen Schweiz

10/10+

Maybe the sweaty 27 degrees lowered the expectations but I still almost slipped out of every pocket in the pretty long crux sequence and luckily found the right beta for the final crack! Super happy to have onsighted this endurance beauty:)

Soo good, deserves the 3 stars and the popularity! Getting harder the higher you get with the crux directly before the chains; super happy that I could keep my mind calm especially during my shocking footslip on the last move and hanging with only one arm in the topjug definitely brought up even more adrenalin and happiness for sure:)