Ascents in Bayreuther Riss

Could also be graded 9

Probably more like 8+/9-

Quite the line! It was soaking wet in some important sections, so a free ascent would have been impossible, but having aid climbed it now, I'm intrigued to try it, maybe in autumn. Didn't feel like it would be possible for the grade. Interesting traverse in the middle and an awe-inspiring finish through the overhanging crack.

If I'm not mistaken, a few of the loose structures have disappeared since 2019. There was no big block beneath the book case any more. Also no crumbly footholds as as far as I could tell. The variant start is harder than it looks, a small cam or a nut before the first bolt is a good idea.

2nd Go

I wonder if it's possible to climb this one relaxed because I really had to fight for every meter;)

Superb classic! Not that hard if you find all the hidden pockets:)

#2go Once again being super close on the flash by missing the very last crimpy pocket... as it turned out to be the crux for me I was even happier to have stuck this little dynamo the next try:) Triple ascent with Moritz & Marius!

A classic without doubt, and still not polished at all, but there are a few important, but loose structures that are a bit detrimental to my rating of the route, especially the big block beneath the book case, which is slowly crumbling away, and some footholds on the right side of the crack. The ramp in the beginning can be protected using a big cam behind the massive flake. Standing on the flake, you can already clip the second bolt of JIT. The crack itself can be climbed nicely as a dihedral, with barely enough footholds on both sides, and there are good placements for nuts. At the top, there's a bunch of older slings around a tree with a fixed carabiner, but you can back this up using the bolted belay of the project finishing to the right of the crack.