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Ascents in Eibenwände as trad by Christoph Rauch

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Showing all 8 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Fri 10th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Right
6+ Philosophenweg - with Harald Mixed trad 28m, 4 Very Good
Quite the adventure, even more so (of course) compared to "Frostfinger" due to the traverse over the ridiculous flake (no idea how that thing is attached to the wall). I had not forgotten how delicate and bold the rest of the route was, but even though I knew what was coming, I hesitated a little in the runout to the last bolt.

 
6 Bayernwand - with Harald Mixed trad 25m, 4 Good
Traverses left at the second bolt, which turns out to be the crux. Afterwards it gets easier, but you have to add some protection, the last bolt is a little awkward to get to. The top is nice and easy in good rock.

 
5+ Schwartenriss - with Harald Mixed trad 23m, 1 Good
Cool logical line. The eponymous flake is juggy on the right, but extremely dusty in the crack on the left, which spiced up even more the fact that there's no fixed protection in the lower part of the route. The lonely bolt in the dihedral before the finish is still sensible, though.

 
Sun 16th Aug 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre
5 Diagonalriss - with Daniel Trad 18m Very Good
Another fantastic line that I had passed by before without noticing. A long, diagonal crack, perfect for some trad training. Perfect rock, nice hold shapes, good jams.

 
Sun 16th Aug 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left
6 Wichtelriss - with Daniel Mixed trad 14m, 2 Good
Interesting crack line. The difficulties are slightly above the bolts. Take a sling for the upper part!

 
Mon 22nd Apr 2019 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Left
4+ Pollux Trad 12m Good
Can be protected nicely with knotted slings! :-D Tree belay.

 
Sat 21st Apr 2018 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Centre
4+ Gerader Riss - with Jenny Trad 18m Good
Nice to practise placing nuts and slings, abundant possibilities. And great rock quality.

 
5 Schwarze Kante - with Jenny Mixed trad 18m, 1 Very Good
Really good. The difficulties are over a few meters above the single bolt, then it's just a leisurely stroll up to the anchor.

 

Showing all 8 ascents.

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