Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mon 20th May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Castellwand | ||||||
5 | ★★ Hirschbachverschneidung - with Kathi | 17m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 19th May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Bleisteinwand | ||||||
7- | ★★ Black Wing - with Alex | 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 8th May 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Affensteine Brosinnadel - Drillinge Wilder Kopf | ||||||
VIIIa | ★★ Strubichkante - with David X | 40m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 8th May 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Affensteine Brosinnadel - Drillinge Rokokoturm | ||||||
V | ★★★ Südweg - with David X | 60m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 4th May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Obere Gößweinsteiner Wände | ||||||
5- | ★ Nordverschneidung - with thedark | 20m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
5+ | Kleiner Kamin - with thedark | 10m | ||||
Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Teufelskrallenturm | ||||||
2 | Bergseite - with Raimund | 5m | ||||
Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Weidener Wand | ||||||
6+ | ★ Patzer - with Raimund | 14m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Püttlacher Turm | ||||||
4 | Alter Weg - with Raimund | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 26th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Alitzstein | ||||||
7+ ~7+ | ★ Südwestkante | 15m | ★ Good | |||
4+ | Bergseite | 15m, 1 | ||||
#jahreserste2024
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Mon 22nd Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schottertaler Turm | ||||||
5- | ★★ Südostkamin | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Schwalbenstein | ||||||
4 | ★ Alte Talseite | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Gebiet der Steine Quirl Quirlwächter | ||||||
IV | Alter Weg - with Bovist | 6m | ||||
Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Gebiet der Steine Quirl Dreikanter | ||||||
VI | ★ ! Schartenwand - with Bovist | 10m | ★ Good | |||
IV | ★ Alter Weg - with Bovist | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Affensteine Lorenzwände - Lehne Affenwand | ||||||
IV | ★ !Westkante - with Bovist | 15m | ||||
Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Affensteine Dom Zerborstener Stein | ||||||
IV ~IV | Alter Weg - with Bovist | 50m | ||||
Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Affensteine Dom Gespaltener Kopf | ||||||
VIIa | ★ Südostkante - with Bovist | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Affensteine Dom 2.Zerborstener Turm | ||||||
III | Pfeilerweg - with Bovist | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Affensteine Dom Zerborstene Nadel | ||||||
VI | Westkante - with Bovist | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Affensteine Dom 1.Zerborstener Turm | ||||||
III | ★★★ Westgrat - with Bovist | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Rathen Gamrig - Ziegenrücken Heidebrüderturm | ||||||
IV | ★ !Alter Weg - with Bovist | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Rathen Gamrig - Ziegenrücken Waltersdorfer Horn | ||||||
IV | ★ Südkante - with Bovist | 35m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Rathen Gamrig - Ziegenrücken Gamrigscheibe | ||||||
VIIc | ★ Weg am Rande - with Bovist | 10m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Rathen Gamrig - Ziegenrücken Gamrigkegel | ||||||
V | ★★ Südweg - with Bovist | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Rathen Gamrig - Ziegenrücken Heidestein | ||||||
VIIa | ★★ Abendreibung - with Bovist | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
III | ★★ Südwestrippe - with Bovist | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Rathen Gamrig - Ziegenrücken Gamrigwächter | ||||||
VI | ★ Talriss - with Bovist | 30m | ★ Good | |||
VIIa | Alter Weg Berglervariante - with Bovist | 5m | ||||
Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Allersdorf Preßknockwände | ||||||
5 | R16 - with KP | 15m, 3 | ||||
4+ | ★ R17 - with monolith | 22m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Emporwand | ||||||
6 | ★★ Choleravariante - with matzka | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 1st Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Wehlen Buschholzturm | ||||||
VI | Alter Weg Talzustieg - with Raimund | 16m, 1 | ||||
VI | ★ Alter Weg - with Raimund, Bovist | 8m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Rathen Hirschgrund Wartturm | ||||||
V | ★★ Alter Weg - with Bovist | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Rathen Bastei Bergpirat | ||||||
V | Alter Weg - with Bovist | 12m | ||||
Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Rathen Bastei Musketier | ||||||
II | Alter Weg - with Bovist | 12m | ||||
Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Rathen Bastei Margaretenspitze | ||||||
2 | ★★ Sprung | 2m | ||||
III | ★ Alter Weg - with Bovist | 18m | ||||
Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Rathen Bastei Torsteiner Turm | ||||||
IV | ★ Südostverschneidung - with Bovist | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Großer Zschand Thorwalder Wände Kleiner Edelweißturm | ||||||
VI | Übergangsweg - with Raimund | 15m | ||||
III | ★ Alter Weg | 23m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Großer Zschand Thorwalder Wände Großer Edelweißturm | ||||||
VIIb ~VIIc | Südwand - with Raimund | 25m, 2 | ||||
III | ★ Südrippe - with Bovist | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Großer Zschand Thorwalder Wände Dreiblockstein | ||||||
IV | ★ Südkante - with Bovist | 10m | ★ Good | |||
III | Alter Weg - with Raimund | 10m | ||||
Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Großer Zschand Thorwalder Wände Hickelkopf | ||||||
V | ★★ Alter Weg - with Bovist, Raimund, Conny | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Bielatal Grenztürme Kleiner Grenzturm | ||||||
II | ★ Alter Weg | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Bielatal Grenztürme Grenzkegel | ||||||
VI | ★ Südwestriss - with Raimund, Bovist | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Bielatal Grenztürme Großer Grenzturm | ||||||
II | ★★ Alter Weg | 40m | ||||
II | ★★ Alter Weg - with Conny | 40m | ||||
Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Bielatal Grenztürme Grenznadel | ||||||
IV | ★ Alter Weg - with Conny | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Spitzenstein | ||||||
2 | Normalweg | 8m | ||||
Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Altbabawand | ||||||
3 | ★ Rampenweg - with Merlin, Bovist | 25m, 2 | ||||
Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Roter Mönch | ||||||
4 | ★★ Kulmbacher Weg - with Merlin, Bovist | 30m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
6+ | Adlersteig, Einstiegsvariante - with Harald | 17m, 5 | ||||
Nice starting variant along the obvious crack, nuts are a must.
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6- | Talweg - with Harald | 30m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Climbed the original line this time, starting like Mäuselkante, then going left around the arête and up to the ledge.
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6+ | Karl Hetz Gedenkweg - with Harald | 30m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Originally climbed with only one bolt in the first pitch, which is astonishing. The second pitch is only recommended for enthusiasts; the ringed bolt directly after the belay is followed up with only three pitons and a good tree. Powerful over the bulge, then grassy to the headwall, which is actually quite nice and not too intimidating despite the old pegs.
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3 | ★ Bergseite | 25m | ★ Good | |||
The south-west chimney isn't entirely trivial. From the plateau it's enjoyable wall climbing along the easiest line.
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Tue 19th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Todsfelder Tal Albrecht-Dürer-Fels | ||||||
1 | Normalweg | 10m | ||||
Tue 19th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Todsfelder Tal Kapuziner | ||||||
3- | Bergseite | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 17th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Nankendorf Roter Turm | ||||||
6 | ★ Nordwand - with Markus Benning | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 17th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Waldnaabtaler Turm | ||||||
2 ~3 | ★ Alter Weg | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Student | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Westwand - with Daniel | 35m | ★ Good | |||
A bit easier than the zealously overbolted "Alte Talwand", but, I must admit, not as good. Draws to the left, almost to the arête, after the second ledge (look for the bolt). From there, straight up over blocky ledges to the top.
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3- | ★ Nordriss | 16m | ★ Good | |||
3- | ★ Nordriss | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Weißer Grat | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Weißer Kamm - with Ellen | 18m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed it again to be able to abseil down to the beginning of Wolf-Albrecht-Gedenkweg, which is no longer easily reachable from the right, and neither from below because there's only choss and moss.
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5+ | ★★ Weißer Kamm - with Daniel | 18m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty good for something that isn't on anybody's radar. Nice crack and dihedral climbing up to the middle, then cool traverse to the right, and an airy finishing dance on the arête, then either get to the easy terrain on the right or (bolder) climb directly up the arête.
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Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Weißmain-Alb Bärental Bärentalwächter | ||||||
5+ | Ostriss - with Raimund | 25m, 3 | ||||
Forgotten route, probably hasn't been done in ages. The vegetation is thick. It's a shame, because the climbing isn't that bad.
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Fri 1st Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Behringer Gedenkwand | ||||||
6 | ★ Schwabenriss - with KP | 20m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Wed 28th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Weißmain-Alb Burglesau Burglesauer Wand und Vortürme Backschüssel | ||||||
2 | Nordwestkante - with Merlin | 8m | ||||
Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Mostviel - Affalterthal Affalterthaler Spitze | ||||||
2 | ★ Alter Weg | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Berglerturm | ||||||
4 | ★★ Talseite - with Merlin | 15m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
4 | ★ Bergseite - with Merlin, Harald | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 23rd Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Münchser Wand | ||||||
6- | ★ Nordwestverschneidung - with Viola | 16m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Blocky dihedral that climbs quite nicely. For some people, the start might be the crux. No anchor, but you can climb up to the anchor of the route on the right (nuts necessary).
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Wed 21st Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Ailsbachtal Ailsbachtaler Turm | ||||||
3 | Bergseite | 10m | Average | |||
3 | Südwestkante - with Revo | 8m | ||||
Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Haunritz Alter Fritz | ||||||
4+ | ★ Alter Weg - with Raimund, KP | 18m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Not as vegetated as I had feared it to be. After the chimney, just keep a bit left and climb onto the big blocks. From there it's pretty difficult to get onto the next ledge, hats off to the first ascnetionists. An airy step to the right and up on jugs past a tree to the summit.
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5 | ★★★ Talweg - with Raimund, KP | 25m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Brilliant, airy classic. The section where it leaves "Bayerlandverschneidung" to the right felt hard for the grade. From the next ledge, it's also a bit bold because there aren't too many good options for additional protection. The traverse back to the left of "Bayerlandverschneidung" is stunning. Exposed and very worthwhile. #jahreserste2024
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Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Weißmain-Alb Wattendorf Alpenvereinswand | ||||||
3+ | ★★ Gerade Südostkante - with Merlin | 30m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5- | ★★ Alter Weg - with Merlin | 40m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The original line starts in the middle of the face in easy but grassy rock, then goes to the crack on the right. From the last ledge, it traverses left into the vague dihedral, then further diagonally up to the left. The dihedral is certainly the hardest part, but I don't think it's 6- as it's given in most guidebooks.
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Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Into the Wild | ||||||
3+ | Südrippe - with Merlin, Bovist | 10m, 1 | ||||
Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Steinerne Stadt Krötenland & Zinkenstein | ||||||
3+ | ★ Linker Ostkamin - with Bovist | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Not too easy. The start is the crux, somehow getting your body into the chimney. Quite green. #jahreserste2024
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Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Steinerne Stadt Spitzer Turm | ||||||
2 | ★ Bergseite - with Merlin, Bovist | 8m | ||||
Sat 3rd Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Napoleon | ||||||
4+ | ★★ Westwand - with Harald, Markus Benning | 10m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Abseil from Napoleonsblock to the plateau, then through the west face of Napoleonswand in the dark. #jahreserste2024
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5 | ★★ Westriss - with Harald, Markus Benning | 25m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 3rd Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | ||||||
4 | ★ Bergseite | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Purzelstein | ||||||
4+ | Bergseite - with Harald | 8m, 1 | ||||
Exposed around the corner, then left into the south face and up the easy wall.
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Sat 20th Jan 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Spies Hohe Reute | ||||||
5 | ★ Kraftriss - with Harald | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Awesome shoulder crack with an easy chimney on top that looks intimidating from the ground. The shoulder crack can of course be climbed frontally without any crack skills, but you shouldn't! Good but tricky nut placement after a few meters, a good sling shortly after.
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5+ | ★★ R.R.-Riß - with Harald | 14m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Fun crack line with a lot of full-body action. The top section isn't easy, but the low temperatures probably didn't help.
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4 | ★ Hüttenriss - with Harald | 16m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Good easy line, slings and nuts are helpful.
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Fri 12th Jan 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Weißmain-Alb Wattendorf Katzenbuckel Katzenbuckel Turm | ||||||
3+ | Ostwand - with Harald | 8m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Easier than it looks from afar.
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Fri 29th Dec 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Roter Fels | ||||||
5+ | ★ Mittelweg - with Alex | 30m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
One of only two (mostly) dry routes at the crag today. Classic traverse through the wall, enjoyable dolomite stroll. Crux are the final few meters to the belay. Second pitch is easier but grassy and a little chossy up to the point where you merge into "Langer Riss".
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Sun 10th Dec 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Main | ||||||
6 |
★ R3
- with
Alex
2
6
10
lead by
Alex
| 35m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6 | ★★ Schwarzer Riss - with Alex | 30m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 4th Nov 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Egloffstein Egloffsteiner Gemsenwand | ||||||
6- | ★★★ Alter Gemsenweg - with KP | 40m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Alpine adventure, rope management is key, but also not ripping off holds in the brittle but beautiful middle section.
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Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | ||||||
5+ | ★ Rechter Weg - with Melanie Straubmeier | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Good route that avoids the hard sections. Unfortunately, I didn't take yet another look into the old guidebook, so shortly before the finish I didn't notice I had to do another traverse to the left in easy terrain. Instead, I climbed upwards, following obviously polished holds, but it turned out to be a red herring and the polish seems to come from top roping that section, because on lead, it's a 5 m runout at least to easier ground, then yet another 3 meters to the anchor.
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Fri 27th Oct 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Burggaillenreuth Heinrichsgrotte Rechts | ||||||
6- A1 | Hermann Buhl Gedenkweg Linkup Schuhmacher Gedenkweg - with Harald | 18m, 13 | ||||
Aid pitch through the roof (from the anchor of Halber Hermann), set up hanging belay in the original position due to rope drag. Short pitch to the book case, then up over the bulge to the place where Schuhmacher comes in from the left. The top part was wet, so I decided to finish the Schuhmacher route.
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Mon 23rd Oct 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Würgau Frankenwand | ||||||
3 4 | ★ Frankenkamin - with Merlin | 15m | ||||
Nice little chimney, but too short. And it's certainly not 4 UIAA, rather 3 or even easier.
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