Ascents in Weihersbachtal as Hang dog

Abgelutscht.

Wülste, wülste, wülste...

Vermutlich habe ich die richtigen Tritte nach dem Fingerklemmer noch nicht gefunden?

Worked out a beta for the boulder start. Sorting your fingers correctly into the small crimper pockets is half the battle. I then bumped up to the crimp above the first bolt (which is now technically the second, because it has been rebolted, but the old bolts are still in), and with my left foot on the good horn and left hand on a crimp up left, I rocked over on a high foot on the right to reach a good crimp. The upper part is cruisy if you know where the pockets are.

Apparently a new route. Difficult passage over the second bolt. Thick layer of moist chalk on the holds, had to brush everything first …

I actually didn't want to give it a try at first, but it worked out surprisingly well. Flashed it up to the crux, then needed a few tries to get over the crux and then finished it without resting. The upper part after the no-hands rest is brilliant, it's basically a horizontal chimney where the wall in your back slowly pulls up until you need to climb the wall in front of you again; jugs to the anchor. All draws are fixed, so it's perfect for just trying it out!

Had no idea how to climb the first bulge and fell. Fell again at the second bolt. Sat in the rope at the third bolt. And so forth. Really hard to read and a bit dusty for whatever reason. The good holds are almost always left of the bolts.

Didn't see the important holds despite (or maybe due to?) the terrible tick marks and had to sit in the rope.

Already had my fingers in the final jug when I suddenly fell off … I happened to film the attempt and the video shows that my foot slipped.

For the moment, I'd put this down as 8+. Tiny pockets and crimps with the hardest moves right from the ground. I guess I'll take a crash pad for my next attempt, had the first bolt pre-clipped. Merges into "Diamantenfieber" after the bulge in the middle.

The slab is easier than in "Diamantenfieber" (but also nicer since it's more forgiving for the fingers), but I lost the overview at the bulge. Turns out there's a big pocket I just didn't see.

Picked a variant at the start where almost all my bodyweight was on a painful two-finger pocket. Got up to the last bolt, but didn't sort my fingers correctly into the hold from which you need to clip; bummer.

Awesome Route, quit technical, a lot of idurance is needed to climb it and you should climb very fast, hradest move at the real top of the line

I fall of cliping the anchor!!!

Am Ausstiegsband abgerutscht und mit dem Fuß auf dem Seil gelandet :-( - Ende des Klettertages