Ascents in Hammerschmiedturm

Fantastic face climb on pockets, long bolt distance in the upper part.

Used to traverse left into "Höhlenweg" back in the day, but is hardly ever climbed in that way nowadays; instead, it goes directly up to an anchor in slightly grassy rock. Good moves on jugs.

Once considered as one of the longest and best routes in the whole northern Frankenjura, nowadays neglected and overgrown. The last recorded ascent was 9 years ago. The climbing and exposure is stellar, though, and the route is mostly untouched, retaining the alpine feel. It starts at the right end of the wall, then traverses along a series of bigger and smaller caves to the left, finishing at the highest point. Most of the route runs above the anchors of the remaining routes, so make sure nobody's climbing below you as you'll be throwing some dirt. You can thread one or two rock tunnels in the vegetated traverse before the second bolt and also place the odd small nut. There's currently a hornet nest in the upper wall above the second bolt, but they seem to be peaceful. The last belay just below the finish is on two rusty pegs, but you can place a nut to back them up.

Didn't expect to get through this as it was my #lastrouteoftheday. Luckily, though, it's mostly an endurance piece, with two or three harder moves strewn in, which I got right immediately, albeit on the verge of running out of power. The runout after the expansion bolt increased my motivation to pull through. Rewarding! A bit careful on the first 10 meters, though, there are some loose holds.

Interesting traverse with peculiar rock structures into an overhanging crack. Used to go all the way up to the second bolt of "Hochlandweg", but there's an anchor now in the middle of the wall. The pencil in the book case is broken and I didn't have a replacement with me …

To the left of "Pachtner". Apparently also straightened (thereby making it a tad harder) compared to the original line, which went to the left into what is now probably "Herr Aber & Herr Aber" and went back into the line further up. The straightened version is logical, though, and climbs nicely. The extension via the upper part of "Herr Aber & Herr Aber" (the right-leaning pillar above the cave) is recommended and probably not harder than 7.

Fantastic endurance wall climbing with spicy bolt distances. Crux is just above the first bolt (take care, the big flake below the overhang is moving); I went up directly with a long move into the good sidepull, but I've seen people go a bit right and use the holds of "Südostwand", which is probably easier. Some smaller holds up top that provide the chance for some good air time!

Amazing line for 1928, given that it basically goes up in the middle of the face, no crack or chimney in sight. Great jug climbing in good rock. It's a bit sad that the last 10 to 15 meters are no longer climbed nowadays because you would have to set up a belay. Guess I need to come back to do the full route some day.

nass

lieber Gedenkweg zum Aufwärmen.