Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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10 | |||||||||
10 | Ohne wenn und aber | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 30th Sep 2006 | ||||||
10- | |||||||||
10- | ★★★ Polymorphie | 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 11th Aug 2007 | |||||
10- | ★ Das Fünfte Element (Das Funfte Element) | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 15th Aug 2017 | |||||
10- | ★★★ Polymorphie | 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st Sep 2017 | ||||
10- | ★★ Freunde der Blasmusik | 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Mon 30th Apr 2018 | ||||
10-/10
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10- | ★★★ Polymorphie | 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 2nd Jun 2020 | ||||
#2go Must-do; definitely would deserve more than 5 stars! Powerful start followed by a tricky slab with a few coordinative moves into monos;)
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10- | ★★★ Polymorphie | 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Jun 2021 | ||||
10- | Wild at Heart | 10m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | |||||
10- | ★★★ Polymorphie | 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | |||||
9+/10- | |||||||||
8a 9+/10- | ★★ Schmuddelkröte | 18m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Mon 21st Aug 2017 | ||||
9+/10-
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10- 9+/10- | ★★★ Wish You Were Here | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Thu 7th Sep 2017 | |||||
8a 9+/10- | ★★ Chicken Run | 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 27th Sep 2017 | ||||
9+/10-
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10- 9+/10- | ★★ Chicken Run | 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 1st Sep 2017 | ||||
9+ 9+/10- | ★★ Chicken Run | 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 2nd Jun 2020 | ||||
#2go Way too hot for all these tiny crimps... messed up the onsight on the very last move and still a close fight in the 2nd try! Hard but really good slab line:)
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9+ 9+/10- | ★★★ Wish You Were Here | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 17th Jun 2020 | |||||
#2go Richtig homogene lochkletterei an perfekt strukturierten fels und nie wirklich leicht! Ghört auf jeden fall zu meinen favourites in dem Grad:)
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9+ 9+/10- | Auf Teufel komm raus | 10m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | |||||
9+ 9+/10- | ★★★ Wish You Were Here | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | ||||||
9+ | |||||||||
9+ | Hooligan | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 11th Aug 2007 | |||||
7c+ 9+ | ★★ Traumpfad | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Aug 2002 | |||||
9+ | ★ Grabscher | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 11th Aug 2017 | |||||
9 9+ | ★★ Traumpfad | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Tue 15th Aug 2017 | |||||
9+ | ★★★ Zock | 22m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Tue 5th Sep 2017 | ||||
8a 9+ | ★★ Tu mismo con tu organismo | 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 13th Sep 2017 | ||||
9+/10-
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9+ | Boytoy | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 29th Sep 2017 | ||||||
9+ | ★★ Seminarschwänzer | 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 25th May 2018 | ||||
9+ | ★★★ Zock | 22m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 17th Jun 2020 | ||||
Hamma Tour, vui besser als Stalingrad! Ois dabei vor allem fieser Seitgriffzangenzug ganz zum Schluss;)
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9+ | ★★★ Stalingrad direkt | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Wed 17th Jun 2020 | ||||
Riesenkellen bis zum letztn haken, dann pumpiger lochboulder!
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9+ | ★★★ Stalingrad direkt | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 29th May 2021 | ||||
#2go Could be 8a - powerful pocket pulling
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9+ | ★★★ Zock | 22m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th May 2021 | ||||
#2go Failed the os at the last move. Tough boulderproblem on tiny holds after 7b-ish climb.
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9+ | ★★ Blindschleiche | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Thu 14th May 2020 | |||||
#2go The day was planned as an active restday... bouldery start and a nice 7b+ from the ledge
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9+ | ★★ Seminarschwänzer | 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th May 2021 | ||||
Climbing on the footholds of chicken run. Took too many tries.
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9+ | Hooligan | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | |||||
9+ | Problem Doppel F. | 20m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | |||||
9+ | ★★ Traumpfad | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | ||||||
9+ | Puffreis | 12m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | |||||
9+ | ★★★ Stalingrad direkt | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | |||||
9+ | Dr. Brausefrosch | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | |||||
9+ | Totale Mondfinsternis | 27m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | |||||
9+ | Boytoy | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | ||||||
9+ | ★★ Mega - with mantra | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | Wed 29th Jun 2022 | |||||
Also great wall climbing, quite easy up to the last bulge, where the character suddenly changes. In the end I found a solution that traverses a tiny bit to the right to reach the undercling beneath the bulge, slap up to the right, reach far left to the undercling pinch, another slap up right to the good edge, right foot high and deadpoint onto the sloper crimp. Tough sequence, but at least I could do all the individual moves.
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9+ | ★★★ Zock | 22m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 4th Nov 2022 | |||||
9+ ~9 | ★★ Mega — 2 attempts | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 14th Jul 2023 | ||||
Eher auf der leichten seite der 9er für mich. Vermutlich hat sich am 8/9 Haken eine Rechtsschleife etabliert. Sehr streng direkt über die Haken könnte 9+ erzwungen werden.
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9+ | ★★ Mega - with Christie | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Mon 13th May 2024 | ||||
7A | |||||||||
7A | Kraft der Sinne direkt | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | ||||||
9 | |||||||||
9 | ★ Früchte des Zorns | 10m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 20th Aug 2017 | ||||
9 | ★ Früchte des Zorns | 10m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | |||||
9 | ★ Früchte des Zorns — 3 attempts | 10m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 18th Dec 2023 | |||||
9/9+ | |||||||||
9+ 9/9+ | ★★ Fetisch | 18m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Aug 2017 | ||||
9 9/9+ | ★★ Fetisch | 18m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | |||||
9 | |||||||||
9 | ★★ Love Sucks | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Aug 2017 | |||||
9 | ★★ Carcassone | 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Mon 11th Sep 2017 | ||||
9 | ★★ Carcassone | 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 2nd Jun 2020 | ||||
Awesome edge climbing with a nice mono move in the lower part:)
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9 | ★★ Carcassone | 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 27th Jun 2021 | ||||
9 | Frisch gepresst | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | |||||
9 | Powerplay | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | ||||||
9 | ★★ Love Sucks | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | ||||||
9 | Kleinziegenfelder Foltertopf | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 23rd Jul 2023 | ||||||
hard boulder out of the roof
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9 | ★★ Carcassone | 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Thu 5th Oct 2023 | ||||
9 | Kleinziegenfelder Foltertopf — 2 attempts - with Rosi | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 4th Aug 2019 | ||||||
9- | |||||||||
9- | ★ Ich kenn da ne Abkürzung — 2 attempts | 10m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | ||||
Monopower
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9- | ★ Winnetouch | 10m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | ||||
Technisch
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9- Easy | ★ Winnetouch — 3 attempts | 10m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 14th May 2024 | ||||
9- ~8+ | ★ Ich kenn da ne Abkürzung | 10m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 26th May 2024 | |||||
9- | ★ Winnetouch | 10m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 26th May 2024 | |||||
9-/9 | |||||||||
9 9-/9 | ★★★ Bewegungslehreseminar (Bewegungslehrerseminar) | 15m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Sep 2017 | ||||
9 9-/9 | ★★★ Bewegungslehreseminar - with Tobias | 15m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 2nd Jul 2020 | |||||
Couldn't figure out the crux quickly so I gave up due to time constraints. Guess I'll have to take the kinesiology seminar after all. But the things I tried in the crux were already quite artistic, I guess.
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9- 9-/9 | ★★★ Bewegungslehreseminar (Bewegungslehrerseminar) | 15m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 2nd Jun 2020 | ||||
Beim runterfalln imma am nächstn schmiergriff hänga bliebn und oben numml spannend für kloane! Nomen est omen;) ganzkörperfight!
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9- | |||||||||
9- | ★★ Unrockbar | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 16th May 2015 | |||||
9- | ★★ Stalingrad | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st May 2007 | ||||
9- | ★★ Fleischberg | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th May 2018 | |||||
9- | Kleine Strolche | 12m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 4th Aug 2018 | ||||
9- | ★★ Stalingrad - with mantra | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 10th Jul 2019 | ||||
Fell on the last move, didn't stick the dyno. Worked out another solution which got me into a better position to do the move.
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9- | ★★ Stalingrad - with mantra | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 10th Jul 2019 | ||||
Great route in a fantastic looking wall. Boulder moves at the start, easier to a ledge. Then gradually getting steeper and steeper on monstrous jugs through a massive overhang, finally diagonally up with a finishing dyno, then jugs to the top. Quite polished already.
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9- | ★★ Drachentöter - with Tobias | 15m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 7th Aug 2019 | ||||
Hung up the draws as a #warmup. Actually we wanted to climb "Nankendorfer Weg" first, but the starting holds were so damp that I couldn't make a single move.
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9- | ★★ Drachentöter - with Tobias | 15m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 7th Aug 2019 | ||||
Nice little jump at the start (probably possible statically, but a little harder), then crux moves for me from the good crimp to the jug after the second bolt. Nice pocket climbing with a little traverse in the middle afterwards and another hard section at the end, with a cool finishing move into an undercling. The first bolt is awkward to clip, and the second is too high (and bent towards the rock, someone must have bashed it).
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9- | ★★ Eisbär - with KP | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Aug 2019 | ||||
Enjoyable jug flake/crack to the third bolt, then suddenly the crux on tiny pockets to the big U-shaped washout (when I was here last time, I saw this and just thought: I need to go there!). Fantastic pockets from the ledge to the top. Felt too powerful for today, but should work when fully rested.
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9- | ★★ Eisbär - with mantra | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 28th Aug 2019 | ||||
Thought I'd finish this one off today, but had only one attempt thanks to H. Like he always seems to do when I meet him at the crag, he occupied the route I wanted to climb and cursed, grumbled and ranted all the bloody time. At least in this one attempt I found a sensible beta for the crux boulder (reachy move to the mediocre crimp on the left first, instead of a cross move into the mono).
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9- | ★★ Eisbär - with Tobias | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 4th Sep 2019 | ||||
We didn't bother warming up today because it's getting dark quite soon already. Initially I thought I'd just hang up the draws before giving it a serious shot, but it didn't make any sense because you need to do the boulder before the U-shaped recess anyway and it's not so hard before that. I wouldn't say the boulder felt easy, but I was in control of the situation; and after a good rest on the ledge, the upper section went through quite easily. Great route.
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9- | ★★ Stalingrad | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 30th May 2019 | |||||
Nice line but unfortunately very cruxy. Should have more bolts. Why the silly distance between 2nd and 3rd bolt with a rope to clip? No place like Germany for misguided bolting. #2go
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7b+ 9- | ★★ Eisbär | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 1st Sep 2002 | ||||
7b+ 9- | ★★ Stalingrad | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st Sep 2002 | ||||
9- | ★★ Drachentöter | 15m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Aug 2017 | ||||
9- | ★★ Ni Fu Ni Fa | 16m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 9th Aug 2017 | ||||
9- | ★ Südtiroler Bauernspeck (Tiroler Bauernspeck) | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 11th Aug 2017 | ||||
9- | ★★ Eisbär | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Tue 5th Sep 2017 | ||||
9- | ★★ Stalingrad | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Tue 5th Sep 2017 | ||||
9- | ★ Nunc est bibendum | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 9th Sep 2017 | ||||
9- | ★★ Veredelt vollendet | 27m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 27th Sep 2017 | ||||
9- | ★★ Voll edel verendet | 17m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 29th Sep 2017 | ||||
9- | ★★ Unrockbar | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 1st Oct 2017 | ||||
9- | ★★ Eisbär | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Wed 17th Jun 2020 | ||||
Powerful bouldery section without any footholds after the leaving the crack!
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9- | ★★ Stalingrad | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 17th Jun 2020 | ||||
1st go; felt soo much harder at the end of the day but still lots of fun on these big jugs:)
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9- | ★★ Veredelt vollendet | 27m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Fri 2nd Apr 2021 | ||||
Eventuell einfacher als 9- durch den Rastpunkt in der Mitte.
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9- | ★★ Drachentöter | 15m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Thu 6th May 2021 | ||||
9- | ★★ Drachentöter | 15m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 22nd May 2021 | ||||
9- | ★★ Drachentöter | 15m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Jul 2021 | ||||
9- | ★★ Veredelt vollendet | 27m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Jul 2021 | ||||
9- | ★★ Veredelt vollendet | 27m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Jul 2021 | ||||
9- | ★★ Voll edel verendet | 17m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Jul 2021 | ||||
9- | ★★ Voll edel verendet | 17m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Jul 2021 |