Ascents in Püttlachkamin

The L version of Direkter Einsteig

Tricky down low

Nasty boulder to the second bolt. Only found a solution involving a small, diagonal crimp with uneven surface, which I had to squeeze all the way. If you have longer reach, you might be able to pull it off via a deadpoint from the sidepull pinch on the right. The second bolt sits in a bad place, the carabiner is lying on the rock and might break. In addition, the third bolt is hard to clip and the flake below it is starting to crumble. Cool sloper passage directly over the last bolt, but it's a little forced because you could just stay in the dihedral on the right.

Had to press the crimp even harder, but it worked out.

Letzter Zwischenhaken liegt auf, ggf Knickbelastung.

Brilliant line that follows the easiest path through the wall and doesn't hesitate to stray a bit left or right from the path to achieve that. The distance between the bolts is considerable, but not dangerous.

Great climb in dark, pocketed rock. No chalk anywhere, which adds to the thrill of the large distances between bolts (as does the dust coat of all the holds …). A bit more difficult around the third bolt, but generally very homogenous.

Now that's what I'm talking about. For the easy evening climbing, you just have to go out with people your age. Nice, narrow chimney, quite the Saxonian experience. Not at all overgrown as described in the Schwertner guidebook. In the middle, there's a good placement for medium to large cams, and there's one smaller chockstone to sling, but that's about it. Good tree to rappel from directly at the top.