Ascents in Schwarze Wand having Beta

Dachte nach 7.Haken endet die Tour, geht aber bis unters Dach.

schwer zu sagen wo man unten klettern soll

The first moves after the first bolt are heinous

Really not a good line. The first few meters are good, then it draws you to the right. Hard if you force yourself to stay in the line of bolts, but there's always an easier variant, so you're almost climbing a harder version of "Schmittchen Schleicher". The awesome rock structures in the middle are a pain to navigate, but again, the holds of "Schmittchen" are within reach of the bolts. The last bolt sits directly in the line of least resistance of said route as well, which effectively changes its nature. This seems to be a common theme at this wall, what with "Black Beauty" and all … a shame.

Dropped off shortly before reaching a good hold. Apparently I went wrong after that anyway … most guidebooks describe 3 bolts in the upper wall, then an anchor. But actually, you're meant to continue over the last few bolts of "Rockpalast" to the very top.

Great, sustained wall climbing in the middle. Only the line isn't absolutely clear … but that might be due to the traverse bolts of the original Meier route. Can't count this as a redpoint because I left out a (presumably) substantial part of the climb and it's an endurance piece.

Great vertical wall climbing on small, sometimes tiny holds. Nice little runout section in the middle. The upper section is easier but still not obvious and demanding. 9- is slightly exaggerated given that Schwarze Magie right next to it is similar but probably harder (and has the longer runout).

Going directly to the last bolt is quite awesome, but requires a lot more balls than going left to the prominent knob, but the detour feels like off route due to the "coffee" route to the left which was added much later. :-/

Unten boulderig an kleinen crimps , weiter Zug aus dem kleinen Dächlein raus und oben mit weiten hakenabständen im slab mental anstrengend. Schöne Tour

Super Super!

Ausgecheckt, super super!

Selbst ohne das freche Auskneifen nach rechts eher Richtung 7b oder leichter. Super Tour direkt über die Haken!

nass

2nd Go

cooler Name

schöne Kletterei

Soft

did a hard but nice beta at the crux

Hard

Ausgecheckt, leistenknüppelei, schwer, super super

komplett daneben

3rd go

Crimpy start

Felt harder than last time, but there was still quite some dust on the holds in addition to the chalk. Great slab.

The sling belay doesn't look entirely trustworthy any more, but you can use the tree behind it as a backup. The second pitch is quite short, though. The direct variants are the better choice for most people, although the traverse below the roof is quite nice.

Nice crack line, much easier if you know how to jam. Crux in the middle, where the crack is too shallow to jam, so you need to use the small holds in the wall. Felt more like 7, a good deal easier (and far less pumpy) than "Peitsche".

2nd go

Very pretty and super badass at the same time! Had to give a lot for the flash!

Draws in, some beta and encouragement by Christoph Rauch. "No, that's the best hold there. Yes, just do the move"

Standing high above the bolt in the first laybacl section feels airy!

Great! One of the best routes of the style I did so far. The rock feels a bit like sandstone here. The top part is a nice slab.

Some beta and encouragement by Christoph Rauch. Draws in by myself.

Followed Christoph Rauch 's draws which turned out to be a combi of Schwarze Wand and the top bit of Schlemmerplatte.

Awesome line!

I struggled pretty hard getting over the third bolt to fourth (and clipping it), but I enjoyed it after that! Harder than Schmittchen Schleicher.

Hard for a #warmup route, but nice. Took me quite some time to figure out where the good holds were.

Tiny pockets and crimps; I guess I pulled a bit too hard at the start, but it worked.

#repeat Still very good; great double crux before and over the rooflet.

#warmup I got careless in the final slab and slipped off a sloper … additionally, it turned out I had taken the wrong exit via "Schlemmerplatte".

Last route of the day, to mend my previous mistakes. It's actually quite a delightful finish.

Unusual crack climbing; cool layback at the start, then another perfect layback from the ledge (careful when clipping the second bolt). A cruxy section where the crack becomes vertical sucks you dry, but once you hold the chockstone in your hands, it gets easier with a bit of jamming and a few sidepulls here and there. We extended the original line with the finish of "Rockpalast".

Fantastic climbing in rough, black rock, on crimps and small pockets, and with loooong runouts. Hard between the third and fifth bolt. I was quite scared, but I was sure I could risk a fall. The new route to the right is quite disturbing, because one bolt is directly in the line of this one. I almost desperately clipped it instead of making one more move to be able to clip the correct bolt.

Pretty cool, but I failed in the vertical crack section. Approaching the second bolt after the ledge is a bit scary. It helps to already have a (long) quickdraw in.

Hard for the grade! I used the exit of Schlemmerplatte, but that shouldn't matter much.

Harder than Schmittchen Schleicher.

Weird climbing, but in a good way!