Ascents in Schauertaler Turm

I did the traverse after the start block totally different than others, 1-2m too high probably. Was really fun and a bit tricky this way.

New year's ascent. Nice, exposed traverse through the south face along a narrow ledge, followed by a short, steeper wall and delightful climbing along the arête. Took a while to bring up the caravan. :-D #jahreserste2022

Wonderfully long and sustained route, a bit intricate at times, and it comes with more than just one crux. Felt much harder than the grade (more similar to its neighboring 7), but it's pretty fun overall! A tough flash for sure.

High first and second bolt, then a bolt every meter all of a sudden. If you want to avoid rope drag, you should unclip from above again and use long quickdraws! The best thing in this route is surely the human-size crack shortly before the end, which you can use as a no-hand rest.

Revisited this one after years. I had completely forgotten how varied this route was, brilliant. Dihedral, slab, athletic overhang, crack, it's all there.

Deserves all the same praise as Nordwand. On top of that, it's a more direct line, easing the rope drag. Long arms help!

Broke away a big foothold just after the first bolt and fell. I was a bit scared and careful afterwards and sat in the rope twice.

A bit chossy all over, but nevertheless worth it. Long journey with lots of different climbing styles. Worked out nicely on second try.

First ascent of 2019, completely wet and during a drizzle, but still worthwile. Nice traverse and easy finish.

#jahreserste2024

Short (especially compared to the height of the tower), but interesting route on the uphill side. With a big nut after the first bolt, the protection is actually perfect.

Schöne Aussicht

A nut between first and second bolt was helpful. Maybe also because of the strong wind, but my legs were a bit shakey under the third bolt, so I clipped with the panic quickdraw first to reach it from the good sidepull/undercling handle and clipped later in a normal quickdraw. The crux was at and above the third bolt, but there are good holds always, you only need to find them and stand up one or two times. Nice route and very nice view of the Streitberger Schild from the summit.

Long route that follows a great line up the middle of the south face. You should extend many of the bolts with slings or you will end up with terrible rope drag. The crux is quite low down at the third bolt (feels hard for 6+, but okay in the crag context), quite hard to read. The rest is easier with some slight traversing on thin holds, but most of the time good feet. Feels quite alpine and neverending.

Climbed it in three pitches, which made it an evening-filling event. Quite airy overall. This variant consists of a hard sequence from the first belay to the bolt glued into a crack (probably part of the old lower south face traverse). An old guidebook states that this section was originally done by giving the leader a bunk-up. Falling on the way could end badly (resulting in a factor 2 fall into the belay). Merges back to the easier original variant afterwards.

Can't call this an onsight since I knew most of the route. Also, it's quite hard to find the place where you go to the right. I probably missed the point and traversed in from a bit higher up. I think I like the left-hand variant better, since you don't have to crawl up the chossy ledge. Both variants are impressive routes, though. I still think the crux is at the third bolt.

Climbing sharp at the arête from the slanted ledge really makes a huge difference. Using long draws and slings, it's possible to do it in one long 35 meter pitch, too. Great climb, despite a bit of choss in some places.