Ascents in Veilbronn

Einstieg sehr bröselig, gefühlt jeden 2ten griff weggebrochen

Auf dem Weg zum umlenker schiss bekommen

Somebody stole the pencil again. It's becoming a nuisance. I climbed this thing 6 times now and only once had the chance to sign the book.

Aid route from the late 60s or so, next to "Falkendach". Climbed each passage freely, but had to sit a few times to clarify that the protection was good and also to dust off some of the holds. Brittle in the beginning, lots of pitons in good condition (the first one is even glued in) and a few possible placements for nuts and cams. It's not too bad when climbed freely, but the meandering line, the vegetation and the rock quality in some parts make it clear why this has never been revived.

Typical Totenstein(wände) #warmup that gets you pumped already. The start was moist, which also didn't help.

Yet another great line here. Shares the crux with "Brutkasten", then draws to the right below the roof and up directly in good rock to the anchor of "Noriswand".

Finally got this one, after five years of sneaking past it. Giving it a good brush after the Alzheimer's flash attempt certainly helped, as well as refreshing my memory of the beta. Cruxy moves where you leave the diagonal flake, quite reachy or dynamic. My wingspan was just enough to do it statically. The middle part is a game of "keep it together", before the finish awaits with some more trickery and an anchor that just had to be set so far up left that you're starting to get nervous on the last meter. Great route.

One of my absolute favourites. This time, I got attacked by angry ants in the middle of the dihedral, though. They were swarming all over a thorny bush that grew there, which I brushed with my face a little, which again coaxed them into jumping onto my face and spraying their venom into my eyes. Nasty little buggers. I removed the bush afterwards. Another note: a green dragon cam is perfect to protect the section below the roof (better than the rusty peg). You should leave out the bolt in the chimney to avoid massive rope drag, or take a long-ass sling to extend it.

Nice route that loosely follows an old, forgotten aid route ("Bergseite", first described in Bühler guide from 1973) but then merges into "Südriss" towards the top instead of going directly left into the chossy overhang. Good rock and nice moves.

Gnarly boulder that requires a lot of finger strength (or tricks that I couldn't pull off). Getting to the first bolt is exciting, but there are jugs. Pulling up into the slab is probably easiest on the right, via some brittle but big holds, and a massive hook. Clipping the second bolt might be the hardest part, it's easier if the draw is already in. From there, I slapped up left to a shallow pocket while crimping hard with the right hand on a shallow slanted edge (high left foot, too). The top is like "Südostkante", which still offers possibilities to drop off despite the much lower grade.

Athletic, strenuous overhang. The holds are a little brittle, clipping is also not too easy. The reward is the upper wall, which I already knew.

Finally buckled up to try this, and I can confirm that it's not 8, but 7. Great crack climbing and a good route to level-up your trad skills. Careful with the first placement, though, the crack is quite smooth at the beginning and some brands of cams might slip out. The original line apparently stepped onto the arête at the end (hence the name) and drew up to the left (a peg is still there), which is then the crux of the whole route. However, there's an anchor a little to the right now, too.

Yet another brilliant piece of rock at this wall. The intimidating crack dihedral in the beginning is easier than it looks, the actual difficulty starts when you traverse out to the right into the wall filled with slopers. Barely made it through that passage, sweat dripping off of my brow. The overhanging finish is actually easy (even though it says "very hard" in the old guidebooks; funny old codgers) and great fun.

It's nowadays probably better to start via "Reine Nervensache", but the start actually isn't too bad, just be careful what you hold on to. When you've reached the little alcove with the tiny tree, the real fun starts. Tricky to say the least, but also powerful in places. Climbed to the anchor of "Reine Nervensache" instead of going right to the anchor of "Hohe Liebe".

Felt incredibly hard today in these humid conditions.

Adventurous, somewhat exhausting, but really nice!

Exposed start, then some cool layback moves to the mossy top.

Great line, neglected classic. The traverse below the roof is probably what puts most people off, no easy toproping possible. Neither polished nor exceedingly chossy. Best lower off the last bolt, the last few meters are overgrown and there's no anchor. Concerning the route: it's a fun, easy traverse and good layback and crack climbing.

Tricky traverse followed by marvellous wall climbing in compact rock. Sustained until the anchor.

Good crack line, but not many opportunities of using crack technique. Mostly crimps, sidepulls and round holds.

Richtig gute Klemmer

Wäre mit etwas Konzentration auch im 2. Go drin gewesen.

Completely wet except for the first two meters, but the jams are good enough. #jahreserste2023

#jahreserste2023

#jahreserste2023

3rd go