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Ascents in Bischofsberg as Hang dog

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Showing all 6 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Sat 21st Aug 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Bischofsberg
7+ Auf Anhieb Sport 15m
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8- Tiroler Pflaster Sport 13m, 3
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8- 8-/8 Diagnostik Sport 15m, 5
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Sat 13th Jun 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Bischofsberg
8 8-/8 Diagnostik - with Daniel Sport 15m, 5 Good
Christoph Rauch
Dusty yet enjoyable slab followed by a short boulder through the overhang. Ended up trying to dyno it, but had my feet in the wrong position. Worked out with correct foot placement. Other people seem to somehow get to the mediocre undercling which allows you to do it statically, but that didn't work out for me.

 
8- 8-/8 Diagnostik - with Christoph Rauch Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
Daniel
8- 8-/8 Diagnostik - with Christoph Rauch Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
Daniel
At first, I tried a couple of ways through the roof, but just couldn't pull on that painful pocket. Christoph Rauch figured out a (pain free) dyno solution, that worked for me as well. I stuck the landing twice, but never on the first try. To my future self, here's how to do it: Via a right-hand undercling, take the painful hold with the left (this way, it's just a bad crimp) and the angled crimp/pinch with the right. Then both feet up into the obvious pockets (first left, then right) and jump. I can almost do it statically, but the target hold gets better further up, so it's advisable to jump as far as you can.

 

Showing all 6 ascents.

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