Ascents in Mittleres Wiesenttal as Hang dog

Wonderful route, wonderful line, technical climbing, without that much powerful moves, really high technical level and varied climbing skill facet are needed. After a hard beginning you get into the food crux with some more moves on two finger pockets to a slab position, where you can rest, traverse on small holds into the final crack, one of the best endurance climbs in the Frankenjura!

Made the rope running better with longer draws, feeling ready to send

Failed at the crux because the finger where cold and the foot was wrong...

senseless fail in the beginning

2x ausgebouldert, fiel mir schwer.

Got the foot up for the final rockover and wanted to pull, but lost grip in my left hand … bummer!

Didn't have any juice left to put the foot up for the final, strenuous heel hook rockover.

Tried with the beta I had worked out last time. No chance. Had to work it again to finally arrive at a beta that uses the most-ticked hold of the route.

Didn't find a really good way to get into the key sidepull. Helmut's beta didn't seem feasible at first, so I skipped that one move and continued. Found a nice layback beta to the fourth bolt. You can still fall off in the sloper section at the top!

Tried with Helmut's beta again and it worked in the end! So all moves done, now it's just practice. Also climbed the whole crux section without resting!

Wanted to get to the little crimp for the left hand without resting, but fell off due to wrong gripping position on the little blocky thing at the start of the crux: my final solution: index and middle go into the little recess at the back of the crack, ring finger and pinky go into the slot on the right, thumb on the top left part of the block. That's apparently crucial for me to be able to put the foot up after reaching up into the sloper crack.

Dropped off right at the beginning of the crux, as expected. Skipped the one move and struggled again reaching the "ear". However, I found a nice way to extend my reach a bit by moving my right hand up a bit from the pinch to a little edge in the sloper, just enough to be able to bump to the "ear" with my left hand. Also realised that I could use a good foothold quite far down under the arête to be able to shake out my left hand before going to the birdbath hold which I couldn't hold long enough last time. Some of the finishing slopers were damp, so the top section was even more delicate than last time.

Decided to try the lower crux by directly going into the sidepull again, because I hadn't managed to do the fingerlock/crimp version and immediately succeeded. Finally I got good beta for that section! I could link the whole upper part from there now, nice!

Good attempt. Didn't get the sidepull right and fell, but then tried again and got from there to the "ear". Slipped off a foothold on the little arête afterwards, though. But now I'm prepared to just come back fresh and try again, since I'm not "afraid" of any move any more.

Got my shoulder stuck under the rope so I couldn't do the move to the tiny crimp.

Didn't get my thumb right on the sidepull.

High point! Stuck the moves up to the big pinch, then failed getting into layback position. Important things to remember: a) for the move to the sidepull, the left arm must be under the rope coming from the draw, and b) first take the sidepull with thumb on the left, then while standing up, move thumb to the right onto the tiny nose.

so gut

Gute Versuche

Didn't go as bad as I had anticipated. Got a new hint for the crux from Torsten. It's apparently sensible to go into a gaston first instead of spanning all the way to the crimp up left. Might give that a try next time.

Hard moves one after another. The final beta in the third try felt quite good actually, this one would be doable in enough tries.

Lots of hard moves. If I ever want to climb this, I need to break it down into sections. Steep start with a strange move out left with your right hand somehow jammed in a good undercling. Then good moves to a big jug, but not a really good rest. The traverse to the right was the hardest part for me, I could barely do the moves today. After the traverse, pull into shallow pockets from a heel hook, on to a strange hold (I hear this is where many people drop out) which is hard to get in the correct way. A few easier moves lead to a final cruxy bit at directly at the anchor.