Ascents in Wüstenstein

Nice crimpy and technoical route!

Second go, climbed with a wrong beta in my onsight attempt. So good!

Incredible! Should have been an Onsight, but I had to much of respect

FFA.

FFA.

Slightly easier than the right one, good climbing on the obvious flake, mostly good holds, but a bit pumpy towards the end.

Wanted to do IAN as #warmup but confused the lines. A bit sandy in the beginning (hence the name?), but easy, then a demanding middle section over the little bulge, and a crimpy vertical finish.

First tried to climb it directly over the bolts, but it seems there's nothing there, so I fell. Tried again 30 cm to the right and voilà, a jug. Reachy moves, exhausting, but a jug. Another few interesting moves, followed by the next long move to a kind of good hold (you could stick your finger in the slot at the bottom, but I wouldn't recommend it, seriously!) and a balance dance to the clipping position, followed by yet another long reach to the jugs just below the roof. Clearly, this route isn't for short people. The real fun begins now. Clipping the bolt in the roof is okay if you are tall enough to have made it to this point. Getting into the first pocket in the roof, however, was the biggest challenge for me. Didn't find a solution at first, so I skipped the move and did the roof boulder first. Succeeded after a few tries, but the first move was still not done. Tried a few things with hooking and strange body positions, but only reached the second pocket once (and immediately slipped from the first pocket when I was there), so I lowered to rest for a while.

I actually didn't really believe I could do it and just wanted to boulder around a bit more to find a good way to do the first move into the roof sequence. But then I intuitively did the right thing and suddenly found myself with both hands in the roof, reaching for the two-finger pocket. I didn't let the surprise make me hesitate, put up my foot and reached out for the next pocket; half a second of contemplation and another lunge to the victory jug.

Slightly painful holds, quite dusty as well. Didn't like the sequence in the end. Not really a bad route, though.

#2go

#2go The moves/line/rock are almost too good to be real;) best 8b in Franken for sure! Waiting the whole day till it finally got in the shade to surprisingly clipp the chains right before it got dark with acceptable condis:)

#2go Güllich-classic! I normally never take my height as a disadvantage for big moves bug on this one, I had to find a very brutal mono beta which felt at least like 8a... fun campus moves through the afterwards with a big move to the topjug:)

Bouldery through this little roof followed by a spicy slab;)

This old classic more than deserves the 3 stars in the guidebook!

9-/9

Könnt locker eine 9 sein. Sehr schöne Bewegungen und ein knackiger Boulder über den Wulst in der Mitte

Schöne Cruxige Tour vom Güllich. Ist ein 9er

Im zweiten Versuch. Tolle Wandkletterei an kleinen Leisten. Etwas schwerer über das Bäuchlein. Für mich eine solide 9-. Achtung, beim Umlenker bröselt der Fels. Abbauen geht auch über die Tour links davon.

9-/9 Soft. Auf tolle Wandkletterei an kleinen Leisten folgt wieder ein schweres Bäuchlein mit abschließender Platte, die sich im Rotpunkt leichter angefühlt hat als in den vorherigen Versuchen. Für mich anspruchsvoller als Sahara, aber mit 9-/9, wie in den Kletterführern angegeben, passend bewertet