Routes as sport in Schaffelberg

New short route at Schaffelberg. Just above the hard sector (roughly 40m left of Blitz, you’ll pass it on your way up) Easy, but technical start to a restpoint. From there with ledges and sidepulls to a high step and undercling. Then a nasty crimp pinch and a blind slap around the corner. Core strength is needed to clip the chains. Stays in the shade, when the main wall has full sun. Lower off with chains, ring and a steel biner.

Verbieten Verboten Linker Ausstieg

New line just left of Auszeit, nice climbing with a defined crux halfway.

Pillar to the left of Notnagel

Just to the left of the lovely shady tree on the upper section of path. Straight up for 10m then trends left through a corner to bolts on the left hand section of wall. Permadraw screwgate anchor.

Start on mega juggy rail, straight up for 10m then trend left towards a blank corner and wonderful roofy move to finish.

Straight up pretty much, 20m to first anchor. Harder 7m pitch above grovelling under a crack to second anchor.

Stiff bouldery start to wonderful jug. Really solid cruising on jugs with fun and interesting moves to anchor just below cave.