Ascents in Affensteine having Beta

etwas hohl und evtl. brüchig zum 1.R, danach ideales Gestein und allerhand gute Schlingen zum 2.R. Etwas wacklige Hangelkletterrei zu 3.R und Hauptschwierigkeit klar nach und um 3.R. ca. 6h oben gesessen und gesichert. 4. Meister*innenweg

the best route to the summit

too hot

Used everything to get to the top, impossibly hard

#meisterweg

Must be one of the best routes in Saxony

Laut KF: VIIa

v.o.g.

v.o.g.

mit Unterstützung

slipped at the slab

almost made it clean

difficult move to clip the first ring bolt

pure enjoyment

Second(!) ascent of this route from 1957. As you can imagine, the adventure factor of this one was maxed out. Basically no protection in the first pitch (a wide shoulder crack, later narrow chimney) and extremely dirty on top of that. I was quite glad that Raimund led it, wouldn't have dared to. Raimund brought me up on the best belay he could improvise (three wonky trees and a mediocre sling in the crack). The guidebook here then says you have to build a human pyramid on the left, then climb a wall to the arête on the right. After some vain attempts from Raimund, I gave it a shot and with some sketchy moves away from Raimund's shoulders, I reached a sort of secure position with my hand in a wafer-thin undercling and my feet on the least crumbly pieces of rock I could find. I was quite surprised to find exactly there the remains of a metal shaft. We assume that the first ascensionists placed it there with the intention of putting a ring in, but didn't have any rings left, and after completing the climb without it, they realized it's "only grade V", so they were ashamed to add the ring and left just the shaft. Lucky us, because without that shaft, I wouldn't have dared to continue. Placed another sling in a brittle rock tunnel, wrapped a runner around a chossy chicken head, then finally made the move to the right and rescued myself to a tree (which, according to my partner, wouldn't have held a fall as well, but I think it would have :-D). From there it got much easier, but still the dirt and vegetation made it a sketchy endeavour. Took us so long that we had to hurry quite a bit to catch the last bus.

The steep wall in the lower half is quite chossy, but easy (and can be protected quite well). The interesting part is getting into the upper groove, which requires hard thinking, especially for the grade. My solution was more painful than hard, so I guess it's viable for grade V.

Great line, a crack dihedral that looks easier than it is. Especially the top part, where the crack turns into a steep groove, requires some effort. #barefoot

Most people climb "Dietrichweg Dungervariante" as it seems, because it's a little easier (supposedly). The common crux seems to be to clip the first ring, though. It was apparently set from a "Baustelle", but it's unclear how this is possible. Climbed freely, you have to do a pull-up on mediocre, roundish holds (big ones, though) and lock off to clip the ring. There might be a good sling a little bit lower on the right but I didn't find it. From the ring it's an easy traverse to big holds on the left, then directly up to the second ring, where I brought up my second. The upper half starts off with a delicate friction traverse on tiny footholds, with barely anything to hold on to. From the first bigger hold in the crack on the left, you can place one or two tiny, but great slings. I didn't have any idea how to proceed from there and my feet started to hurt, so I reached over to the left into the other crack, which brought me into yet another perceived dead end. Put yet another sling in the left crack, then dared an athletic move with a tiny foothold and heelhook to my left hand, which worked out. Unclipped the left sling and placed a better one higher up. The rest of the crack is a great reward: juggy, getting easier meter by meter, with a final big sling placement below the last bulge. What a route. Can't even imagine how they could have climbed this in 1920.

2.Begehung

#MW74

Worn out and slippery. The star in guidebook is no longer valid due to extensive use. VIIb/c

2nd attempt at 3.R

great route with all features... crag, slab, corner, overhang and delicate finish

#meisterweg

#meisterweg

nice reibung

Nice Risskamin (if you like those). My opinion: VIIc at 2.R

Die Hakenabstände in Kombination mit teilweise überschaubaren Schlingenmöglichkeiten sind eine echte Herausforderung. Ansonsten durchgehend anstrengend und kleingriffig. Alles in allem eine überragende Tour und absolute Empfehlung, wenn man weiß, worauf man sich einlässt.

Schöne Route bei der man allerdings ein wenig darauf achten sollte, was man greift oder tritt, denn einiges ist lose. Leider hat sich ein Kleinstgriff in der garstigen Rinne links vom 4. Ring verabschiedet, was einen ordentlichen Flug nach sich zog. Nichtsdestotrotz 87. Begehung.

Die ersten 12m Rissverschneidung sind nicht ohne, es liegt aber einiges und klemmt auch sehr gut! Im Anschluss top gesichert (3R) an schöner Wand. 78. Begehung.

Riss ist besser und schöner als er aussieht.

Unterstützungsstelle am 1. Ring nur bei ausreichender Größe (>1,85) mit ordentlich zerren und schieben machbar. Ansonsten recht moralische Tour...paar gute dünne Schlingen liegen.

Wunderschöne, sehr lange Kamintour, mit Hang zur Extravaganz - immer wieder Riss- und Wandstücke, die dazu einladen dem Kamin zu entfliehen. Fast überall mit Knotenschlingen sehr gut abzusichern, vorrangig 8-10er, seltener auch 5er.

Hochachtung jedem Vorsteiger🤪

Für ne III ist der Kamin ganz schön sportlich 😄

Chimney extravaganza. Powerful start (I bridged the first section) to gain the narrow chimney. Protection here and there, but not too much. For a chimney, it's really varied climbing, with lots of hold shapes and movement types. Marvellous belay below the final crack/chimney with 40 meters of air under your feet.