Ascents in Sächsische Schweiz having Beta

Tatsächlich hatte ich noch nie den oberen Teil gemacht! Krux war erst mit dem dicken Kletterrucksack durch den arg engen Einstieg zu kommen, und dann der etwas zu weite und luftige Wandwechsel im oberen Kamin - am Ende ausgespreizt und die Kinder über das Knie traversieren lassen Oben dann ausgiebiges Picknick mit perfekter Aussicht!

Mit Kind und Kegel und aus Bandschlingen improvisierten Klettersteigsets. Interessant vor allem dann wenn die kurzen Arme von Jarno nicht bis zum Kabel reichten und auch die Bandschlinge zu kurz wurde. Zum Glück ist er der Herr der stärkste Kletterer der Familie

Rapping down.

Jahreszweite

My quality rating is for the start in clean condition. Unfortunately, it was utterly full of sand for us. Otherwise nice boulder start to get into the dihedral, easy wall climbing along iron knobs to the ring, a nice traverse under the roof to the ledge and a slightly bold short rib to the next big ledge. From there it's chimneys and easy slabs to the top, still a bit dirty.

Nice little chimney from the balcony of the cave. ↑↓

Great easy climbing in a fantastic setting, climbing through the roof of the cave. Good rock tunnels abound as soon as you made it past the first crack.

ganz schön Eis

am Ring links oder rechts klettern ???

We wanted to climb "Westkante" but failed to find the correct start. The overhang at the start (first crux of "DuD") is extremely sandy, unfortunately. Because we thought us to be in "Westkante", we didn't go to the second ring of this route here, but instead climbed slightly to the right of it and around the arête to the ledge. The book says there's a bolt on that ledge to belay from, but I didn't find one, so I continued up the slab to the next ledge, which has an abseil station.

Beautiful and varied climbing with a spicy crack section in the middle. The start is well-protected and there's a good sling at the start of the crack, but then it's quite run out to the second ring, at which I arrived with bloody knees due to the excessive jamming in the broad crack. Beautiful jug wall to the third ring and another crux at the very top to gain the slab.

Really good friction slab with just the right amount of holds. Hard passages above both rings, and slightly committing to the second (no good placements). Nice mono pocket over the first ring. #barefoot

Delightful climbing on sharper edges to the ring (which is placed a bit strangely there). Best to climb up along the arête to a good rock tunnel, then down again for half a meter to gain the sidepulls around the arête. Bold moves over the edge and a few nice meters of slab to the summit.

mit Torstens Vater

Not too easy to find. Went up to the summit in the evening to have a better overview for the next day.

We actually wanted to climb Direkte Südwand, but the start was still wet from the shower, so I dove into this one. Tried to climb it RP but had to rest in the first ring already because the start was so exhausting and terribly bold, with the first crux with irreversible moves at about 3 meters, then some more hard and tricky climbing to a good placement for two bomber slings which protect the way to the first (!) ring. Clipping that is the second crux, because the huge hold below it turns out to be really bad. Then follows another really hard and reachy section over the slab to the second ring. After reaching that, it gets easier until the third ring, but I had to rest once more there to figure out the friction slab to the top. At this point, the sun had already set and I was starting to feel bad for my second, so I hurried up and gave everything to stand up on the bad smears and throw for the one good hold, with success. Felt much harder than VIIIb.

From below this route looks very vegetated and unprotected, but this is deceptive - it's an nice and easy route with good chances for protection at the upper part. The difficulty are the first meters.

Immer wieder eine schöne Route Zwei Ringe und eine Sanduhr für die Moral. Kann man schon mal vorsteigen.

Und auch dass muss ja mal passieren. Schon so oft gemacht und dann doch verrissen. Mit dem Kopf ganz wo anders klappt auch dieser schöne Weg mal nicht :-/

Hinter meiner Tochter hinterher (7) bis zum Gipfel. Klasse Kinderweg. Der Sichernde muss aber etwas auf die Seilführung achten.

Immer nass!

vog

Bold start up the dihedral to a "Hundebahnhof". Mediocre rock tunnel there, but apparently I overlooked a massive one on the opposite wall, quite far back. In chimney technique and a 360 up to the ledge (good slings on the way) and through the groove (another placement for a long runner) to the top. Varied climb.

Torsten Schierz

Tough crack for the grade at the start. Easier, but a little sandy and more athletic to the ledge (tree). Rough, narrow chimney (exhausting!) to the big ledge below the summit, then step over and easy friction slab to the top.

Sehr brüchig

Awkward right-leaning groove to a ledge, then one daring move on the arête.

A little athletic dance into the wall, then some delicate moves to the ring. From there it's interesting crack climbing with good protection. Slightly bold over the last bulge before the final slab.

Wanted to climb "Westkante", but that didn't seem nice enough, so we decided to solo the AW, which is stiff in the grade, but nice! #barefoot

Only half of it

gerader

Jahreserste, grimmig kalt

direkt nicht geschafft

Schwer über den Bauch, mit Aufschlagsgefahr auf der Rampe

noch der beste Weg auf diesen moosigen Haufen

6m boulder, no protection

Begehung Nr. 2 Beste Option auf den Haufen

Begehung Nr. 30

Begehung mit Moritz u. Torsten, Polly und Uwe Niebelt

Crux ist der letzte Zug am Ausstieg aus 2-Finger-Loch. Ansonsten VIIb - gelände. Die benannte Schlüsselstelle ist ca. 2,5m über 2. Ring und lässt sich in mindestens 3 Varianten lösen. (Fingerloch links oben, Fingerloch links unten, Fingerloch rechts). Ich habe mich für Ersteres entschieden. Unten bis Ring 2 -3 Schlingen möglich. Auch unter 2. Ring zusätzliche Absicherung zum Klinken des Ring möglich.

Schwer gekämpft, Handverletzung vom Skifahren wirkt nach