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Forstgrabenwand Guide

  • Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 1

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Campbell Gome Player One

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Table of contents

1. Forstgrabenwand 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.961925, 14.129552

access issues

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

ethic

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
inherited from Sächsische Schweiz
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg III Trad
2 Blockkamin III Trad
3 Fahrt ins Blaue VIIa Trad
4 Himmelreich VIIc Trad
5 Juliweg VIIc Trad
6 Juniweg IV Trad
7 Laufpass VIIa Trad
8 Nennt's wie ihr's wollt VIIa Trad
9 Neuer Nordostweg IV Trad
10 Nordostweg IV Trad
11 Nordwestkante VIIc Trad
12 Nordwestweg IV Trad
13 Querschläger VIIa Trad
14 Schartenweg II Trad
15 Sommer ade VIIa Trad
16 Sommerweg V Trad
17 Südostriss VI Trad
18 Südostweg VI Trad
19 Südwestweg VI Trad
20 Tunnelweg III Trad
21 Tunnelweg Variante IV Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
II Schartenweg Trad
III Alter Weg Trad
Blockkamin Trad
Tunnelweg Trad
IV Juniweg Trad
Neuer Nordostweg Trad
Nordostweg Trad
Nordwestweg Trad
Tunnelweg Variante Trad
V Sommerweg Trad
VI Südostriss Trad
Südostweg Trad
Südwestweg Trad
VIIa Fahrt ins Blaue Trad
Laufpass Trad
Nennt's wie ihr's wollt Trad
Querschläger Trad
Sommer ade Trad
VIIc Himmelreich Trad
Juliweg Trad
Nordwestkante Trad
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