A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Victor Player One DDjensl Jonas Eberhard Philipp Siegmund Player Two
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Ratsleitenturm 24 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Ratsleitenturm 24 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 50.947564, 13.986925
- Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
- No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
- No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
- no chalk, no pof
- Sign the summit register.
- Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
- Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
- Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
description
Special thanks for the topos to Frank Rainer Richter, Königstein
access issues
Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.
Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.
Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.
ethic
You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Alter Weg
Rechts in der Scharte auf Block und griffigen Riss zG. FA: 1928 | II | ||||||
2 |
Südriss
"Alter Weg" auf Vorblock. Links Rissfolge zG. FA: Heinz Schierz & H. Oehme, 1930 | IV | ||||||
3 |
Rechte Wand
AF VI. Unmittelbar links vom großen Block in der Scharte Wand (Sanduhr, R) zG. FA: Manfred Vogel & C. Vogel, 2006 | VIIa | 12m, 1 | |||||
4 |
★ Linke Wand
AF VI. Rechts der Südwestkante Wand (Sanduhr, R) zG. FA: Manfred Vogel & C. Vogel, 2006 | VIIa | 10m, 1 | |||||
5 |
!Südwestkante
Linke Schartenkante auf Absatz und Wand zG. FA: Helmut Oehme & R. Dreßler, 1928 | V | ||||||
6 |
Fleur de Lis
Links unterhalb der Südwestkante Wandstück zu kleinem überdachten Absatz. Wand (Ö) zu Band und wie WESTRIPPE zG. FA: Frank Rainer Richter, G. Hartmann, J. Schwiebus & J. Arndt, 6 Nov 2020 | VI | 1 | |||||
7 |
★ Westrippe
In der Westseite Kante links von Winkel hoch, Überhang links umgehend. Rechts Rippe zu Band rechts zu Kante u. z.G. (vom Band auch Rissspur gerade - !VI) FA: Richard Dreßler & H. Oehme, 1928 | IV | ||||||
8 |
★★ Westwand
Etwa in Mitte Westseite Wand bei feinem Riss (R), oben etwas links zG. FA: Helmut Oehme & H. Sterll, 1931 | VIIb | 12m, 1 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 |
★ Ratsleitenstiege
Nordwestkante (R) zG. FA: Manfred Vorgel & C. Vogel, 2003 | VIIb | 12m, 1 | |||||
10 |
★ Nordwand
Vom großen Band rechts in der Nordseite feinen Riss zu nR. Links feinen Riss und Rissfolge zG. FA: Helmut Oehme & K. Schulze, 1931 | VIIc | 1 | |||||
11 |
Talseite
In Mitte Nordwand feine Rissspuren linkshaltend zu R. Wand zG. FA: Jürgen Höfer & M. Vogel, 2006 | VIIIc | 1 | |||||
12 |
★ Talseite Direkteinstieg
Vom Band, links der "Talseite) (Standöse), Wand (Ö) direkt zum R. | VIIIc | 2 | |||||
13 |
Nordriss
Links in der Talseite Riss zG. / Das große Band in der Nordseite bis ganz nach links (Standöse). Rechts Rissfolge zG. FA: Helmut Oehme, 1930 | V | ||||||
14 |
Nordriss Variante
Nordostkante zu Absatz. Zum Riss queren. / Von der Standöse an der Nordostkante zum 2.R vom „Frühjahrsputz“. Rechts queren zur Rissfolge. FA: Helmut Oehme, 1931 | V | ||||||
15 |
3 Herzen in meiner Brust
AF VIIc. Vom Band ganz rechts in der Ostseite, an der Nordostkante, zu Band. Nordostkante weiter über Überhang (R, Sanduhr) und Wand (R) leicht rechtshaltend zu R. Überhängende Wand zG. | VIIIa | 3 | |||||
16 |
★ Prädikat wertvoll
AF VIIIc. In Mitte Ostseite Wand, kleinen Winkel und Wand zu R. Wand weiter bis unter großes Dach (Sanduh). Rechts hangeln und überhängende Wand (R) zG. | IXa | 2 | |||||
17 |
Psst!
AF IXc. Vom 2.R von „Prädikat wertvoll“ an Dachkante nach links hangeln (R) und Kante zG. FA: Falk Stephan, 1 Aug 2015 | Xa | 3 | |||||
18 |
Ostwand
AF VI. Links in der Ostseite Wand und rechts Riss zG. FA: Helmut Oehme & K. Bartel, 1930 | VIIa | ||||||
19 |
★ Südostkante
Südostkante (R) zG. FA: Manfred Vogel & C. Vogel, 2003 | IV | 1 | |||||
Aufstiege am Felssockel | ||||||||
21 |
Kurzum
Am nördlichen Felsunterbau die ganz rechte Kante (Ö) zum großen Band in der Nordseite. Beliebig zG. FA: Falk Stephan, 7 Jul 2018 | VIIa | 1 | |||||
22 |
Nullkommanix
Am nördlichen Felsunterbau, 2,5m links vom „Kurzum“, Wand (Ö) auf großes Band in der Nordseite. Beliebig zG. FA: Falk Stephan, 7 Jul 2018 | VIIb | 1 | |||||
23 |
Betonfinger
AF VIIIb. In Mitte des nördlichen Felsunterbaues an stumpfer Kante (R, Sanduhr, R) überhängend zu großem Band in der Nordseite. Beliebig zG. FA: Falk Stephan & S. Hensch, 18 Apr 2015 | VIIIc | 2 | |||||
24 |
Nasenpiercing
AF VIIc. Links vom „Betonfinger“ Wand zu vorspringender Felsnase. Direkt darüber (Ö) zu großem Band in der Nordseite. Beliebig zG. FA: Falk Stephan & S. Hensch, 18 Apr 2015 | VIIIa | 1 | |||||
25 |
★★ Frühjahrsputz
AF VIIc. Ganz links am nordöstlichen Wandfuß leicht überhängende Wand zu R. Wand zum Ende des großen Bandes in der Nordseite (Standöse). Bei Kante zu Überhang (R). Leicht rechts über Über- hang (R) und Wand zG. FA: Falk Stephan & S. Hensch, 18 Apr 2015 | VIIIa | 3 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
II | Alter Weg | ||||
IV | ★ | Südostkante | 1 | ||
Südriss | |||||
★ | Westrippe | ||||
V | !Südwestkante | ||||
Nordriss | |||||
Nordriss Variante | |||||
VI | Fleur de Lis | 1 | |||
VIIa | Kurzum | 1 | |||
★ | Linke Wand | 10m, 1 | |||
Ostwand | |||||
Rechte Wand | 12m, 1 | ||||
VIIb | Nullkommanix | 1 | |||
★ | Ratsleitenstiege | 12m, 1 | |||
★★ | Westwand | 12m, 1 | |||
VIIc | ★ | Nordwand | 1 | ||
VIIIa | 3 Herzen in meiner Brust | 3 | |||
★★ | Frühjahrsputz | 3 | |||
Nasenpiercing | 1 | ||||
VIIIc | Betonfinger | 2 | |||
Talseite | 1 | ||||
★ | Talseite Direkteinstieg | 2 | |||
IXa | ★ | Prädikat wertvoll | 2 | ||
Xa | Psst! | 3 |